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Indawoods was making 100 watt lighting stators a while ago does anyone know if he is still offering these.If not who has quality stators for a 2002 200

Sorry to tell you this but Inda passed away over a year ago...
RIP man.

rewind your own
http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... tor#p97107

I don't understand how rewinding it would increase the wattage. I understand the stock coil is
already wind as much as possible without it rubbing the flywheel. How would rewinding it making
much difference if there's no space?

you rewind it with different gauge wire then what it comes with

thats about as technical as i get ;)

Yeah, we're not electrical engineers here. All I know is that it is a proven way to upgrade your stator output. If you really want to know why I suggest Googling it or taking an electronics class!

kinda the idea of running water through 8 miles of river that is a half a mile wide or running water through 4 miles of river that is one mile wide...in the end, you still arent suposed to pee in a canoe

I think my dual coil stator should be at least 100 watts once I get it done, assuming all goes well...

I tested my rewind to 103W. (see above linked thread.)

If I'm using only a 35 watt bulb with a 100 watt stator, will the bulb blow because there's too much electricity?

Will light coil steal electricity from the ignition coil?

terminatr wrote:If I'm using only a 35 watt bulb with a 100 watt stator, will the bulb blow because there's too much electricity?

Will light coil steal electricity from the ignition coil?

first off, both coils produce electricity
so no, the light will not steal from the ignition coil, it will produce its own output, besides the ignition coil
(consider 2 cars driving in seperate lanes of the highway, if one if them speeds up that does not mean the other one slows down)

as for the bulb, 35 is the draw, or "need"
if you run a 35 watt bulb on a 75 watt stator that just means that you have 65 watts that go unused
so no, it will not blow

diymirage wrote: as for the bulb, 35 is the draw, or "need"
if you run a 35 watt bulb on a 75 watt stator that just means that you have 65 watts that go unused
so no, it will not blow

Or do you mean 40 watts that go unused? Check your math.

Actually ....what i ment was: when you run a 35 watt bulb on a 100 watt stator 65 watt goes unused


Not sure how i messed that one up

diymirage wrote:kinda the idea of running water through 8 miles of river that is a half a mile wide or running water through 4 miles of river that is one mile wide...in the end, you still arent suposed to pee in a canoe

Now THAT was funny!


1. Yes. You can improve the output of the OEM lighting coil by rewinding it. A thicker wire will get you a higher current/amperage, a thinner wire will get you a higher voltage. Increasing the number of core plates can also increase the power output. You are looking for more current. Attention TO the winding process (tight/even/close) also makes a difference. Some have simply RE-wound the existing wire to good effect. I wouldn't recommend that particularly..too much chance of a nick someplace ruining the whole project.

2. The one (current) or the other (voltage) is always a trade-off. There is no 'free lunch'. It's not difficult to end up with a coil that indeed can generate more power (watts)...but the bike has to be spinning over 2000rpm to GET there.

3. In regard to having an effect on the ignition coil, or 'stealing electricity' from it: For many years, Fredette used a rewound lighting coil as a spark enhancer. It was one of his secret weapons. He is right about that, it works that way. Why? FM, of course. There is apparently some change (compression) of the flux field with the use of a high(er) output lighting coil that indeed has a positive effect on the ignition coil (the ignitor..not the coil the spark plug connects to).

If you think there is no difference between an -ES and an -EG plug..if you have tried the two and can't tell the difference, I doubt you will notice the performance increase of the SPARK side when you change that light coil, though.

Oh...in the above noted link..TW was (is) correct. Do I have to read all six pages of that thread to get to the point the erroneous current reading is sorted out?

Is there a Cliff's Notes version?

What if I have one lighting coil with thin wire and the other with thicker wire?

What about the coils they sell on eBay? They seem legit just don't know if anyone has tried or tested them.

Roadhazardguy wrote:What if I have one lighting coil with thin wire and the other with thicker wire?

most of us only have room for one lighting coil on our stator plates, how are you gonna drop a second one in ?

Personally, I wouldn't chance that there would be a problem with running the two gauges of wire and just rewind them both with the same gauge wire. That's my .02!

SS109 wrote:Personally, I wouldn't chance that there would be a problem with running the two gauges of wire and just rewind them both with the same gauge wire. That's my .02!

diymirage wrote:

Roadhazardguy wrote:What if I have one lighting coil with thin wire and the other with thicker wire?

As the eloquent VP of this once fine country might say: 'I have one word for you: Phase Shift!'

Well...kind'a.

More like two unrelated and separately generated voltages tied together WILL work...exceedingly poorly.

Electricity generation is not like beer: You cannot take a 12oz. can and a 24oz. can..pour both into a big glass...and get 36oz. of beer.

Yeah. I know. Amazing, but true! Electricity is NOT like beer.

Stay tuned for tomorrow's learnin: 'Electricity (transmission) IS like a doughnut!'

OBviously, I have too much time on my hands. I know that is true 'cuz I read it on the innernet!