kips valve timing 87 c2
Posted: 04:33 pm Nov 01 2012
Hi, Im new to this forum, it great to find fellow air cooled fans! I have an 87 c2, which is undergoing a complete overhaul, was just going to be a slight fettle, but the deeper i've poked.... still, not unexpected for a 25 y.o. dirt bike! Have done loads of engine work to it, incl. new mains/crank seals, prox rod and piston kit, rebore, clutch, oil seal/gaskets etc ( prev owner had replaced plated bore with steel liner 
) couldn't run to replacing back to alu liner/plating but probably will when this toasts itself ( what do you mean, 20 mins down the lane? !!!!) Last off road resto was an 82 I.T 250, sold it, missed it, the kdx came up at the right price, really looking forward to getting back on the (few remaining accessable) lanes in the uk. Im trying to work out the kips valve timing, using a clymer manual. Following as per manual, insert operating rod all the way into cylinder, line punch marks on valves with groove . I cant seem to line the two up exactly, its either one tooth to the right of groove or one tooth left, ( the dot is midway between two teeth) other option is r/h valve one tooth right, left hand valve one tooth left. I take it that when at tickover rod is all the way in ie valves flowing into ex port and as rpms rise valves close off from ex port and open into resonator chamber? I know that when installing the rod collar onto the actuator arm it moves the op. rod out slightly ( punch marks still dont line up) does anyone know how much the rod moves out of the cyl when at maximum? if i could work this out i may me able to suss out optimum position for valves/ groove by shining a torch from the top down the bore and blanking main exhaust port off inside, should then be able to see if fully closed or open. Any help much appreciated.
) couldn't run to replacing back to alu liner/plating but probably will when this toasts itself ( what do you mean, 20 mins down the lane? !!!!) Last off road resto was an 82 I.T 250, sold it, missed it, the kdx came up at the right price, really looking forward to getting back on the (few remaining accessable) lanes in the uk. Im trying to work out the kips valve timing, using a clymer manual. Following as per manual, insert operating rod all the way into cylinder, line punch marks on valves with groove . I cant seem to line the two up exactly, its either one tooth to the right of groove or one tooth left, ( the dot is midway between two teeth) other option is r/h valve one tooth right, left hand valve one tooth left. I take it that when at tickover rod is all the way in ie valves flowing into ex port and as rpms rise valves close off from ex port and open into resonator chamber? I know that when installing the rod collar onto the actuator arm it moves the op. rod out slightly ( punch marks still dont line up) does anyone know how much the rod moves out of the cyl when at maximum? if i could work this out i may me able to suss out optimum position for valves/ groove by shining a torch from the top down the bore and blanking main exhaust port off inside, should then be able to see if fully closed or open. Any help much appreciated.