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Repacking Silencer.

Posted: 09:09 pm Aug 16 2005
by jafo
I have an FMF Turbine Core II Q silnecer. I'm trying to repack the silencer and was wondering how to get the silencer material out from the other end. It has three screws on the stinger end and then that part slides out. If you look into the shell, you can see the outlet part and some packing tucked around the outlet part. It looks like rivets hold that part in, but there is one screw on the bottom that I think helps hold the stinger in. What do you have to do to get that rest of the packing out? Drill the rivets and take it completely apart or just try to hook this stuff and pull it out? I tried with a long screw driver but the packing is to loose to get a good grip on, it just tears. The replacement packing from FMF is longer than the pack that comes out with the stinger end, so it leads me to believe that the left over packing still in there has to come out. Any ideas????????

Jon.

Posted: 09:11 pm Aug 16 2005
by Indawoods
Hook it, pull it, stuff it! :supz:

Posted: 03:20 am Aug 17 2005
by Mr. Wibbens
I like to take it all apart myself

Easier to despooge

Not the same S/A but does not seem much different



Image

Posted: 05:38 am Aug 17 2005
by Indawoods
Jon's is different than yours Wibs... The cap has packing, yours doesn't.

Posted: 09:36 am Aug 17 2005
by fuzzy
Yeah, my Answer is like that. PITA!!! The stock silencer is never leaving my KDX.

Posted: 03:38 pm Aug 17 2005
by Mr. Wibbens
If the cap is packed just take 'er off!

Takin' stuff apart is fun!

Posted: 05:49 pm Aug 18 2005
by jafo
Well, I took mr. Wibbens advice and took it all apart. There was a point where I asked myself why the hell I tried this. But it all worked out and it was a good thing I did take it all apart. There was small little black rocks back behind the packing at the end of the pipe. I figured it was a mix of dirt and smooge. I cleaned it all up and put it back together with self threading screws and it worked out great. Now next time it won't be so hard to get apart and I'll know exactly how to do it.

Jon.

Posted: 05:50 pm Aug 18 2005
by jafo
Oh the internal parts look axactly the same as Mr. Wibbens but mine has the chrome piece on the back at the pipe outlet.

Jon.

Posted: 03:03 am Aug 19 2005
by Mr. Wibbens
Glad it all worked out!

:partyman:

Posted: 01:19 pm Aug 20 2005
by jafo
Right On~~!!!! :supz:

Jon.

Posted: 02:16 pm Aug 20 2005
by IdahoCharley
Fuzzy - Stock silencer is staying on our KDX also. My older boy runs a KDX 200 with rev pipe and TC2 silencer and I'm not sure there is any real performance gain with the TC2 other than lighter weight.

My younger boy's KDX 200 (w/PC2 pipe) seems to come close in the over-rev department to the FMF rev pipe; maybe the larger canister volume is helping.?? One day I'll have to slip the TC2 on the PC2 pipe and see if I can notice a difference in the grunt department. Definately do not miss packing another silencer!!

Posted: 05:07 pm Aug 20 2005
by jafo
The way I left the silencer, it should be alot easier the next time around.

I was reading somewhere that the chamber design has more affect than anything else on pipes. It's how the sound rezonates back to the cylinder from the pipe bulge area that creates the extra power gains. The sound waves created in the chamber actually helps the intake and exhaust breathing. I guess technicaly it is the size also but it's also the chamber design too.

Jon.

Posted: 08:37 pm Oct 12 2005
by Ryan
so i have read this thread and am going through the same problem. I think you guys are saying drill out the rivets right? then go get some self threading screws to replace rivets? can i get these at any hardware store and are they expensive? thanks

Posted: 01:28 am Oct 13 2005
by skipro3
Take the parts into a GOOD hardware store like TrueValue or Ace. Not Home Depot or Lowe's or any other place that hires high school girls who couldn't answer a question such as yours and then force you to do your own check-out.
A real man, who has experiance using real hardware and tools will provide assistance at a smaller store. Those stores are usually a franchise and the owner is likely to be the person helping you find what you need. That's what I do. That way, you will end up with the right hardware; perhaps stainless steel instead of tin junk as well.

Posted: 05:17 am Oct 13 2005
by Mr. Wibbens
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kdx220freak wrote: I think you guys are saying drill out the rivets right? then go get some self threading screws to replace rivets?
or you could get a rivet tool

Image

They are really simple to replace

Posted: 08:05 am Oct 13 2005
by Ryan
are they expensive or would it be cheaper to replace the rivets with the self threading screws??

Posted: 08:52 am Oct 13 2005
by Mr. Wibbens

Posted: 02:27 pm Oct 13 2005
by Ryan
wow those are pretty cheap, guess i got to go to ace.!!!

Posted: 04:43 pm Oct 13 2005
by fuzzy
Harbor Freight rocks....

Posted: 04:52 pm Oct 13 2005
by Ryan
ok well i got another question cause im working on it right now!! I got the four rivets out and i cant seem to get the insides or the tip off. Im not sure were to try to bang it out. Cause im really trying to get the thing aprt today. If anyone can help please please do!! I also made sure nothing is blocking it, the rivets are completly out but i dont know how or what i should hit to bang it out.