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im not very mechanically inclined, especially with 2 strokes. this is my first one. but i want to learn and figure this could be my first engine pull apart one day.

ive read that you need to rebuild them every so often, but im wondering if theres a way i can tell, without taking it all apart, if it was rebuilt recently. or maybe take some minor things apart to see.

i read something about the oem piston had a defect and should be replaced. its a 2000, would it still have the oem piston in there after 12 years?

im not looking to do any rebuilds right away, i would just like some piece of mind knowing everythings all good when i go riding and somethings not gonna blow up on me.


anything else you could tell me would be helpful. as far as things to go over when you buy a used bike.

i havent had a chance to go riding with it yet. but it starts up first kick, until it warms up it doesnt idle on its own, i have to fiddle with the throttle. maybe i just need to adjust the idle screw? or maybe just leave the choke on longer?
sprockets and chain are in good shape. wheel, axle and bearings seem fine. i dont see any fluid leaks. radiator looks good, hoses all fine. crankcase fluid is topped up. brakes feel good. suspension feels the same as my 09 drz400, so i assume thats a good thing.

also is carb cleaner a good idea?
thx

oh, also the fuel thats in there the guy said is from last summer, so maybe it will idle better once i run that through and get some new stuff in there.

yes, get that fuel out now

You'll want to grab a manual and at least pull the top end down. It's no big deal to dismantle, clean, inspect, and re-assemble. You'll learn a bit about the bike, and figure out if you need to change out the piston. If there is the OEM piston, there is no gaurantee how long it will run. 5 minutes, or 5 more years.

hm, ok. well ill take it out for a spin this weekend.. id like to start it up and warm it up at home, but im not in an area where running a loud 2 stroke for a while will make the neighbours happy. id like to figure out that idling thing. hopefully its just a matter of adjusting the idle screw. actually hopefully its just the bad gas.

Good plan imo, drain the old out and put some fresh mixed fuel in it, take her out with you're trusty screwdriver.

I'd get familiar with your carb, each screw location and it does.

You say "crankcase fluid is topped off" that's fine as long as it's not topped off to the top of the fill plug, there's a site glass on the side of the engine to determine proper fluid level. Just had to through that out there.

Have fun this coming weekend and I hope it's just a carb adjustment to bring her around.

Do you have a friend with 2 stroke experience to help you when you tear down to look at the piston? Do you have a torque wrench to use when re-assembling the cylinder and head? When you get to the Kips drive be sure to support the shaft when taking off the nut on top the 'claw' gear---and note that it is a left hand thread which turns clockwise to loosen it.

If you find a Wiseco piston in there you are probably good to go---but should probably have a new base gasket on hand to use during reassembly If you run into trouble you can get plenty of advise on this site

went out with it on saturday. ran great... couldnt figure out the idle problem, has new gas in it.. the idle adjustment screw is pretty worn out from a previous owner, so i can get it to turn very well.. so im gonna get a new one and try again then.. in the mean time i just adjusted the cable at the throttle to rev it up a bit at idle.. surprisingly by doing this my revs dont go up or down while steering. so should be a good band aid fix for now.

If you are getting a new idle screw you should order it from Ron Black, he has the one with the little tad on it so you can adjust it by hand, rather then need a screwdriver

also (and dont ask how i know this) make sure your sparkplug is nice and tight, if that is loose it will not idel good either

diymirage wrote:If you are getting a new idle screw you should order it from Ron Black, he has the one with the little tad on it so you can adjust it by hand, rather then need a screwdriver

also (and dont ask how i know this) make sure your sparkplug is nice and tight, if that is loose it will not idel good either

From reading his post it sounds like he is looking for the idle screw, not the air mixture screw. And yes the RB mixture screw is the way to go, but last I knew it was only avalible with a carb mod.

you could buy it seperatly from the carb or head mods...

His site says " Price for the PWK 33 mm ~ 35 mm = $25.00

Price for the PWK 36 mm ~ 39 mm = $30.00

(Sold with RB carb mod only)"

he must have changed it since i had mine done.
i guess that s a good excuse to get the carb done