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1 1/8" bar bore size?
Posted: 10:56 am Jul 17 2005
by Indawoods
Hey guys...
I'm looking to put some 1 1/8" bars on my KDX and was wondering if anyone knows the bar clamp bore size because I am looking to just getting my clamps bored out so I can mount them assuming that there is enough material there to do it safely.
With all the custom fitting I have done with the KX frontend and all, I really don't want to go through that again.
I assume it's a tad under 1 1/8" right?
I may just go with the BRP mounts.... man they got a lot of cool stuff!
Posted: 02:32 pm Jul 18 2005
by Colorado Mike
I would have thought the bore would be 1-1/8", just off-center to provide a gap between the halves for clamping clearance. If the bore is less than the bar dia., it'll bind, But that's just my worthless non-machinist view.

Posted: 04:07 pm Jul 18 2005
by canyncarvr
Good grief...surely some fat bar owner has a set of calipers?
..or just measure a set of bars hanging on the wall at a local outfit?
Bolt the caps to the pedestals with a couple/few washers inbetween..drill'em through.
Lessee....my 1 1/8" nitride bit is here somewhere....................
Probably not a good idea to try a speedbore bit.........
It would be interesting to hear if that is an option (boring). Doesn't seem to me (by simple recall) that a 7/8s mount set is going to have quite enough meat to go another 1/4" and still have much left.
Of course, Inda will let us all know...with b4 and after pics I'm sure!
Posted: 09:15 pm Jul 18 2005
by skipro3
Taunts like that, Carvr, will scare Inda off to one of those other sites. Then where would we be?
Good suggestion to stick a couple washers in there, bolt together, then drill. Use a press though.
Posted: 09:56 pm Jul 18 2005
by Indawoods
I'm sure the
MACHINIST will!
You think I would try that myself? I'm sure he will let me know if it is a safe mod. While I'm there I am getting my top triple clamp bushed and shimmed. All one piece. I have it designed out and should be pretty trick when done.
Am I obsessed?

Posted: 10:33 am Jul 19 2005
by canyncarvr
You
could just leave well enough alone.
Well...that never works for me, but I'm sure it's a good idea anyway!
The idea of including the spacer with the bushing didn't occur to me...I had no idea what I'd end up with as far as 'space' goes. It
would be prett-darn cute, though.
I'll stick with the ugly mutliple numbered and sized washers.....
Be sure to include the exposed threads on the stem when you're designing your spacer. Yeah..I'm sure you did...but I'd rather bring it up now than be wishing I had later.
Posted: 11:08 am Jul 19 2005
by KDXer
Would you like me to take my bars off, bolt the top clamp back on and measure the holes diameter ??
I have fat bars but am unsure as to exactly where you want the measurements taken from.
CC said ..or just measure a set of bars hanging on the wall at a local outfit?
Aren't the bars 1 1/8" ?? or is it possible the clamps are actually the 1 1/8" bit ?? Now I'm really confused...

Posted: 04:20 pm Jul 19 2005
by jafo
While were on the subject of fat bars. I thought of something last night. What would you have to do with the clutch and front brake lever mounts? You would surley have to get new ones?
Jon.
Posted: 04:23 pm Jul 19 2005
by Indawoods
Nope... they are 7/8" at the grip area.... At least the ones I'm looking at.... ProTaper!
Posted: 05:57 pm Jul 19 2005
by KDXGarage
jafo, they are 1 1/8" at the handlebar clamp area, and they taper down to 7/8" before it gets out to the kill switch/clutch lever / lightswitch / master cylinder / grips area. That confused me for a while, too.
Posted: 06:03 pm Jul 19 2005
by jafo
That makes me feel alittle more like.........better. I was really wanting to swap over. Just to make things easier and I would like to have those short tapered bars for the woods.
Jon.
Posted: 06:17 pm Jul 19 2005
by KDXGarage
I have the Answer Pro Taper bars, and I have crashed (ON PURPOSE

) a few times just for testing purposes. They are still straight.
Posted: 11:58 pm Jul 19 2005
by skipro3
I have fat bars and they are the strongest thing I've ever used. Rethnal twin wall are just as strong if you really want a cross over brace. How do I know they are strong? I flipped my trailer with my bike attached and in the end, the bar was ground down pretty dang good, but it was straight as origonal. You bend either set of bars, and I can just about guarantee you the bent bars will NOT be your biggest problem.
Pro TAPERS............the name kinda indicates that they reduce down for the grips and controls. I suppose words mean something. Just wish I knew what!!!!