KDXRIDER.NET

I have a '06 KDX200 with a KX forks installed in it. The problem I'm having is the steering head nut underneath the upper clamp (which keeps the lower triple clamp tight to the headset) keeps coming loose every once in a while even if I have everything taught in the front end to KDX spec. I have no clue as to what might be causing that so I'll really appreciate if anyone will chime in to give me direction.

Thanks,
Roger

Maybe you're ridin' too hard! : I personally would put some blue (medium strength) loc-tight on it. It's only supposed to be hand tight as I'm sure you know.... good luck!

What amazes me is that it has the top clamp & the top clamp nut are pressing down on to it so I can't figure out why is it coming loose. Hope if anybody else has some more input.

It could be that the bearings or races are not seated all the way yet. Did you have the stem turned down on the bottom so the lower bearing would seat to the lower triple clamp? Did you install new races in the head tube when you did the swap? To me if the top nut is staying tight then it sounds like the bearings are moving / seating.

Did you have the stem turned down on the bottom so the lower bearing would seat to the lower triple clamp?

-It was so long ago I can't remember.

Did you install new races in the head tube when you did the swap?

-No, I didn't.

Could it be that your bearings are just shot? You can check to see if the lower triple is up tight to the bottom of the tube or if there is about 1/8" gap between the bottom of the bearing and top of the clamp.

hi, I have also done the fork conversion with the kx fork. however i did not turn down the stem dia so that the bottom bearing seat all the way down to the lower triple. is this critical to handleing of the bike and tightness of the front setup or aligment of the triple tree to the bearing? geometry of the bike too?

KDXsg wrote:hi, I have also done the fork conversion with the kx fork. however i did not turn down the stem dia so that the bottom bearing seat all the way down to the lower triple. is this critical to handleing of the bike and tightness of the front setup or aligment of the triple tree to the bearing? geometry of the bike too?

I would say no. I was just thinking that the size of the shaft that needs to reduced is not much larger than where the bearing sits so maybe the bearing might be working it's way down the shaft allowing the bearing nut to loosen up. The OP was asking what might be causing the nut to loosen and I was more or less just thinking out loud. I did and would again turn down the shaft just to tighten up the bottom. It looks cleaner, and maybe that is all but it might make a difference. Others with more time on there swap could probably have more input.

Let say I have pressed out the KX stem once and pressed in the kdx stem into the KX triple. i noticed some metal flake that came loose during the process. No heat was used. is it advisble to press out the KDX stem again just to turn down the dia, as I really wanted to do so, but is worried that the stem might not have the same tightness to the tiple as metal flake would again be scrape off from the triple.

Am I just being paranoid?

KDXsg wrote:Let say I have pressed out the KX stem once and pressed in the kdx stem into the KX triple. i noticed some metal flake that came loose during the process. No heat was used. is it advisble to press out the KDX stem again just to turn down the dia, as I really wanted to do so, but is worried that the stem might not have the same tightness to the tiple as metal flake would again be scrape off from the triple.

Am I just being paranoid?

I first did mine with out turning down the stem. Put it all together and then didn't like the way it was so I pressed it back out, turned it down and pressed it back in. The second time I used some blue loctite just for good measure. The first time I also noticed that there was some metal flake. when I pressed it in the second time it took just about the same force to press it back in. So I would say that you should be alright to remove it again if you wanted to. Some where on here I think I say that when replacing the lower bearing you are supposed to press the stem out. Maybe not but that would be the easiest way to do it so it might be?

Maybe some heat might help to reduce the friction cause while pressing out and in. maybe i will wait till the lower bearing needs changing and then do all at one time. does the bearing need to touch the lower triple if i were to turn it down?

KDXsg wrote:Maybe some heat might help to reduce the friction cause while pressing out and in. maybe i will wait till the lower bearing needs changing and then do all at one time. does the bearing need to touch the lower triple if i were to turn it down?

My stockers were never that close. There was just enough room to get purchase on them with a chisel

Pivot works steering stem bearing video in you tube recommend pressing out the stem for lower bearing installation and removal. Thanks wib. next time I will get the bearing to barely touches the lower triple.

I'm not sure but i think I found the problem. When I taught the upper nut underneath the top clamp for the first time, I forgot to loosen the forks pinch bolts so that when I would tight the upper nut the top clamps would slide down pressing onto a spacer which sit on top of the lower nut thus locking it in place. Time will tell if I'm right. I'd like to thank everyone for all the responses.

That would do it. Hope you found your problem. Good luck!