KDXRIDER.NET

Had a day above 40 degrees. Installed the front braided brake line.

Easy squeezy! What a difference. As much as hate say this, in my humble opinion KTM brakes are a solid 10. The KDX with the braided line feels like a solid eight (in the around the block test).

We'll see.

I will gladly give up two points on your scale, for the pad longevity of the KDX brake systems. On the few KTM's I have owned, have all eaten rear pads at an alarming rate. I tried bleeding the systems, adjusting the pedal height, rebuilding calipers, and several styles and compositions of pads, all with no success in increasing longevity.
KDX rear pads will last me a year.
KTM rear pads will last me a week. And I never could figure out why.

worn out pins is usually the culprit.

How did you bleed them?

I bought a braided line and it made very little difference. I reverse bled them from the bottom and could swear there is no air in there. I probably bled a pint thru the system.

My DRZs front brake it tight. If it were a 10, I'd call my KDX a 5

scheckaet wrote:worn out pins is usually the culprit.

At one point EBC was selling pads that came with new pins, they didn't help.
My older brother owns a DRZ, and he recently rode my KDX. He came back raving about my brakes. My KDX stops extremely well. Pad composition can make a huge difference in braking power. I usually run sintered pads in the rear, and plain organic pads up front.

Really? I run stock Carbon pads.... they last longer than anything else I have run by far.

I have tried EBC and Tusk, I got only slightly more use out of the EBC's than the Tusk's (which last about 50 hours) so for $9 a set, I just buy a few sets of the tusks and don't have to worry about it.

ihatefalling wrote:How did you bleed them?

I bought a braided line and it made very little difference. I reverse bled them from the bottom and could swear there is no air in there. I probably bled a pint thru the system.

My DRZs front brake it tight. If it were a 10, I'd call my KDX a 5

I used the syringe from the bottom then bled them nomally. Maybe there's a problem somewhere else?

Also, the changes are subtle with braided line. Don't expect your KDX to stop a train. For me there is better modulation or a better feel. Which inspires more confidence for the crazy assed situations I get into.

Indawoods wrote:Really? I run stock Carbon pads.... they last longer than anything else I have run by far.

+1

carbon/organic - same thing, yes? I run those up front. The sintered pads seem to last much longer on the rear, though.
I just installe Tusk sintered pads front and rear on my Kodiak. They work fine, and they are inexpensive, but the fronts let out an irritating chirp once in a while.

ihatefalling wrote:How did you bleed them?

I bought a braided line and it made very little difference. I reverse bled them from the bottom and could swear there is no air in there. I probably bled a pint thru the system.

My DRZs front brake it tight. If it were a 10, I'd call my KDX a 5

thats pretty odd as I sold my DRZ about 2 months ago and think the KDX front brake is far superior (qualified mechanic before anyone tells me it was **** maintenance or that i dont know the difference between GG and HH etc etc)

gregp wrote:

scheckaet wrote:worn out pins is usually the culprit.

At one point EBC was selling pads that came with new pins, they didn't help.
My older brother owns a DRZ, and he recently rode my KDX. He came back raving about my brakes. My KDX stops extremely well. Pad composition can make a huge difference in braking power. I usually run sintered pads in the rear, and plain organic pads up front.

I got both too. My Z was always better than my KDX.
The KDX always felt mushy even brand new from factory, I could pull the lever almost to the handle bar even after I bled them well.
Then I bled them again and again, and finally got as good as the Z, nice, tight, firm not mushy anymore.
I used a combo of slow reverse flush, tapping the line to get bubbles up, drank a few, wait overnight and repeat until they were good.