Posted: 11:22 am Apr 02 2009
Awesome Possum Inda!!! Can we see some pics of this beauty?
Page 5 of 8
Posted: 11:30 am Apr 02 2009
Stock on the left... Prototype on the right...
Posted: 01:11 pm Apr 02 2009
Looks nice. Eyeballing it there appears to be more plates and more wrapps of slightly larger diameter wire than the stocker? The electrex coil i've got is closer in appearance (from what I recall) to the prototype but with larger diameter wire (and less wraps) than you used on the prototype.
Posted: 01:58 pm Apr 02 2009
Yup... 24 plates vs 18 and the wire is a tad bit thicker but not as thick as Fredette uses or Electrex.
I think both factors besides more of everything has to do with the higher output of this coil vs anything else aftermarket....
I think both factors besides more of everything has to do with the higher output of this coil vs anything else aftermarket....
Posted: 03:19 pm Apr 02 2009
I retarded the ignition slightly, gapped my plug to .035 (wider than normal for a bigger spark) and OMG... it runs allot better than it ever has!
No real reason to retard the ignition... I just wanted to see how differently it runs retarded.
Gonna try it back at the normal setting and see if I can tell the difference between retarded and normal. The funny thing is that retarding the ignition is supposed to move the powerband up... I am getting much more on the bottom due to the lighting coil and wider gap I believe.... very cool stuff....
No real reason to retard the ignition... I just wanted to see how differently it runs retarded.
Gonna try it back at the normal setting and see if I can tell the difference between retarded and normal. The funny thing is that retarding the ignition is supposed to move the powerband up... I am getting much more on the bottom due to the lighting coil and wider gap I believe.... very cool stuff....
Posted: 03:30 pm Apr 02 2009
awesome job, inda!
i AM impressed!
if i ever sell some of these 10,000 parts i already have, i will get one from you!
i AM impressed!
if i ever sell some of these 10,000 parts i already have, i will get one from you!
Posted: 12:01 pm Apr 06 2009
I ended up leaving it a bit retarded. I really like the way it runs that way... your results may differ! 
Posted: 11:40 am Apr 07 2009
'Ya need to keep up, there, m0rie! Read ALL the pages!m0rie wrote:Looks nice. Eyeballing it there appears to be more plates and more wrapps of slightly larger diameter wire than the stocker? The electrex coil i've got is closer in appearance (from what I recall) to the prototype but with larger diameter wire (and less wraps) than you used on the prototype.
Not only is it 18/24 in plates..but Inda measured 18/24mm, too. Guess that works out well, 'eh?
Inda: 'You got MAIL!'
Posted: 11:50 am Apr 07 2009
Got it CC... Thanks!!!!
They should be here Thursday and I will ship out the same day... The kit will have the high output coil, the longer replacement screws and heat shrink.
They should be here Thursday and I will ship out the same day... The kit will have the high output coil, the longer replacement screws and heat shrink.
Posted: 02:13 pm Apr 08 2009
Another one gone....
Posted: 02:32 pm Apr 08 2009
Can't wait to put it in and finish up my lighting install!
Thanks again Inda.
Thanks again Inda.
Posted: 09:41 pm Apr 08 2009
Another one gone... 
Posted: 09:41 pm Apr 08 2009
3 more to go and I will place another order....
Remember guys these are $110 shipped to you.. no core charge so you retain your stock coil for a backup. Comes with instructions, Replacement screws and heat shrink... nothing else to buy!
A fantastic value.... look around and see what you have to give up with other solutions and you will not approach the output of these coils.
HID conversion kits coming....
Remember guys these are $110 shipped to you.. no core charge so you retain your stock coil for a backup. Comes with instructions, Replacement screws and heat shrink... nothing else to buy!
A fantastic value.... look around and see what you have to give up with other solutions and you will not approach the output of these coils.
HID conversion kits coming....
Posted: 01:08 pm Apr 09 2009
Here's one of the smallest ballast HID kits I've found...
http://www.customdynamics.com/hid_headlight_kits.htm
Just FYI
http://www.customdynamics.com/hid_headlight_kits.htm
Just FYI
Posted: 10:19 am Apr 10 2009
All preordered Lighting coils are shipping today....
Posted: 02:32 pm Apr 10 2009
I will be running a prototype HID setup at Hatfield McCoy the beginning of next month. If everything tests out well... We are looking at about $229 for the full rig. I will keep you posted....
Posted: 06:24 pm Apr 10 2009
Maybe I haven't read all the pages, but what kind of tools are required to put your coil in the bike Indawoods? I have to ask, where in the heck did you get that picture in your avatar? It's kind of disturbing 
Little Jeff
PS, could you email me your address so in the future I can buy one of these gadgets you made for my '00 KDX200.
My email address is jeff-n-dina@comcast.net
Little Jeff
PS, could you email me your address so in the future I can buy one of these gadgets you made for my '00 KDX200.
My email address is jeff-n-dina@comcast.net
Posted: 06:46 pm Apr 10 2009
Here is the entire install process... Tools needed are:
8mm socket (for cover)
17mm socket (I believe for flywheel nut)
2 adjustable wrenchs for flywheel puller
Flywheel holder (to hold flywheel during removal and installation of nut)
Flywheel puller (to pull flywheel)
Snips (to cut wire)
Phillips screwdriver (for coil mounts)
Soldering iron (to solder wires together)
a Bic lighter (for heat shrink)
100 Watt KDX Lighting Coil Installation
1. Remove the flywheel cover on the shifter side of the motor.
2. Using a flywheel holder through the two holes in the face of the flywheel, remove the center nut on the flywheel while holding the flywheel still with the flywheel holder.
3. Thread the flywheel holder into the center threads (Left Hand threaded). With a open ended wrench, hold the flywheel puller and turn the center bolt until the flywheel releases from the key and remove flywheel. Make sure you place it in a clean place and treat it very carefully.
4. The lighting coil is the top coil that is slightly slanted to the right. Unscrew the two screws that hold the coil in place. Once loose, snip the yellow wire from the back right side of the coil as close to the coil as possible. Remove coil from bike. Strip back the yellow wires insulation to allow for soldering. 6-8mm should be sufficient.
5. Prep the new coil by sliding the provided heat shrink over the stripped wire on the new coil, take one of the provided screws and lock washers and insert if into the left hole in the new coil by first inserting through the ring terminal and then through the left hand hole. The coil should look like an arch and the terminal on the outside with the screw going through the left hand hole with the black terminal wire coming up from the bottom of the coil, just start threading into the mounting hole so that it is loose and can be manipulated.
6. Solder the stripped wire from the coil and the stripped yellow wire together in a nice flat overlapping fashion as to follow the contours of the wire so that the heat shrink can be slid over the wires and shrunk down to insulate the wires from shorts. ( Alternately, you may use a small metal butt splice and slightly larger heat shrink to cover the splice)
7. Manipulate the yellow wire up and under the stator plate so that it is not exposed to the flywheel as this will cause failure if not done.
8. Insert the right side screw and lock washer through the right hand hole and tighten to spec. followed by the left side screw and tighten to spec.
9. Check that the key on the flywheel shaft is seated and key the flywheel slot on the flywheel to the key on the shaft and slide back on the shaft. Magnetic force should pull it in if you have it on the key. Reinstall the flywheel bolt by holding the flywheel with the flywheel holder and tighten the flywheel bolt to spec. Turn the motor over a few time by lightly kicking the bike over with your hand to make sure you do not have anything rubbing. Everything should turn freely and no rubbing noise coming from the flywheel side. Reinstall the flywheel cover and start the bike.
8mm socket (for cover)
17mm socket (I believe for flywheel nut)
2 adjustable wrenchs for flywheel puller
Flywheel holder (to hold flywheel during removal and installation of nut)
Flywheel puller (to pull flywheel)
Snips (to cut wire)
Phillips screwdriver (for coil mounts)
Soldering iron (to solder wires together)
a Bic lighter (for heat shrink)
100 Watt KDX Lighting Coil Installation
1. Remove the flywheel cover on the shifter side of the motor.
2. Using a flywheel holder through the two holes in the face of the flywheel, remove the center nut on the flywheel while holding the flywheel still with the flywheel holder.
3. Thread the flywheel holder into the center threads (Left Hand threaded). With a open ended wrench, hold the flywheel puller and turn the center bolt until the flywheel releases from the key and remove flywheel. Make sure you place it in a clean place and treat it very carefully.
4. The lighting coil is the top coil that is slightly slanted to the right. Unscrew the two screws that hold the coil in place. Once loose, snip the yellow wire from the back right side of the coil as close to the coil as possible. Remove coil from bike. Strip back the yellow wires insulation to allow for soldering. 6-8mm should be sufficient.
5. Prep the new coil by sliding the provided heat shrink over the stripped wire on the new coil, take one of the provided screws and lock washers and insert if into the left hole in the new coil by first inserting through the ring terminal and then through the left hand hole. The coil should look like an arch and the terminal on the outside with the screw going through the left hand hole with the black terminal wire coming up from the bottom of the coil, just start threading into the mounting hole so that it is loose and can be manipulated.
6. Solder the stripped wire from the coil and the stripped yellow wire together in a nice flat overlapping fashion as to follow the contours of the wire so that the heat shrink can be slid over the wires and shrunk down to insulate the wires from shorts. ( Alternately, you may use a small metal butt splice and slightly larger heat shrink to cover the splice)
7. Manipulate the yellow wire up and under the stator plate so that it is not exposed to the flywheel as this will cause failure if not done.
8. Insert the right side screw and lock washer through the right hand hole and tighten to spec. followed by the left side screw and tighten to spec.
9. Check that the key on the flywheel shaft is seated and key the flywheel slot on the flywheel to the key on the shaft and slide back on the shaft. Magnetic force should pull it in if you have it on the key. Reinstall the flywheel bolt by holding the flywheel with the flywheel holder and tighten the flywheel bolt to spec. Turn the motor over a few time by lightly kicking the bike over with your hand to make sure you do not have anything rubbing. Everything should turn freely and no rubbing noise coming from the flywheel side. Reinstall the flywheel cover and start the bike.
Posted: 08:54 pm Apr 11 2009
Indawoods, Thanks for the detailed instructions. Does your instructions that you send with the coil have pics to? One question though. How does the lighting coil affect performance? Is the lighting coil somehow connected to the ignition coil? Ok I lied, I have one more question. With your setup, I was wondering if I could just run the same light I have now which a Acerbis twin halogen headlight, each bulb is rated at 20 watts each. I have no tail light. If that light setup won't work, what setup would you recomend.
Thanks
Little Jeff
Thanks
Little Jeff
Posted: 06:50 am Apr 12 2009
Sorry... I didn't get pics of the installation. I will have a pictured installation when I do the HID kit and add the pics to the instructions.
You lighting is fine.... and yes the coil adds a performance bump to the ignition coil but no they are not connected together. They are within the same magnetic field.
You lighting is fine.... and yes the coil adds a performance bump to the ignition coil but no they are not connected together. They are within the same magnetic field.