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Re: Top end seize

Posted: 12:28 pm Feb 16 2017
by Friedom
All head studs were installed the same way with double nuts, and all of the others snugged up evenly with the head on but that center most one has probably 5 more threads that it tightened before it firmed up.

"Fun Wheel Drive"

Re: Top end seize

Posted: 04:06 pm Feb 16 2017
by KDXGarage
I have no clue on thread depth or length, but that stud is different than the other 7.

Re: Top end seize

Posted: 04:08 pm Feb 16 2017
by Friedom
Yes I did notice that. Do you have an E motor?

"Fun Wheel Drive"

Re: Top end seize

Posted: 08:11 pm Feb 16 2017
by KDXGarage
not handy (close by)

Top end seize

Posted: 01:26 pm Feb 22 2017
by thirdgenlxi
Ouch! Just curious.... did you burp all the air out of the cooling system when you filled it up?

Re: Top end seize

Posted: 01:57 pm Feb 22 2017
by Friedom
Sure did, thanks! It's about time for me to retorque the head nuts, but my base gasket looks a little wet, new clutch cover gasket is leaking, new water pump seal was leaking. And yesterday the spring return action disappeared from the shifter. Guess I'm going in again.

"Fun Wheel Drive"

Re: Top end seize

Posted: 03:50 pm Feb 22 2017
by KDXGarage
Fun, fun. :oops:

Re: Top end seize

Posted: 11:20 am Mar 07 2017
by Friedom
Update: opened up the right side cover and sure enough the shifter return spring was not connected. It might have been installed upside down by some bozo. All better now.
Also got a motion pro 12/14mm torque wrench extension tool to properly torque my head bolts. All leaks seem to be straightened out with re torqueing and she's running fast and hard, except I think I need a larger PJ as it's gutless off the line and air screw is at 1/2.

Here's the head bolt sticking up I was talking about:
Image

"Fun Wheel Drive"

Re: Top end seize

Posted: 04:23 pm Mar 08 2017
by Friedom
Also got the motion pro attachment for a torque wrench and finally torqued down my head and cylinder bolts properly. Not a single one was tight enough.
Previous build was done by Millenium Tech, but I didn't follow up after break in to ensure that they were tight enough. That could explain the conditions that led to engine failure too.
Sure runs great when it's all buttoned up!

"Fun Wheel Drive"

Re: Top end seize

Posted: 05:36 pm Mar 08 2017
by KDXGarage
Mmmm. Joy. :neutral:

Re: Top end seize

Posted: 04:24 pm Jan 03 2018
by ToXic
Friedom wrote:Update: opened up the right side cover and sure enough the shifter return spring was not connected. It might have been installed upside down by some bozo. All better now.
Also got a motion pro 12/14mm torque wrench extension tool to properly torque my head bolts. All leaks seem to be straightened out with re torqueing and she's running fast and hard, except I think I need a larger PJ as it's gutless off the line and air screw is at 1/2.

Here's the head bolt sticking up I was talking about:
Image

"Fun Wheel Drive"
Hi, I read this thread some months ago and happened to read it again just now, thank you for sharing your experience!
I am rebuilding (more like restoring) my E4 and doing the top end, just finished installing new head studs. All 7 around the head are one P/N which you can still buy, but the centre one is different and it is no longer available from Kawasaki. Fortunately, mine was ok, all the others were too rusty for my taste and so were replaced. Anyway, that particular singular stud is shorter and has a stop (see a photo of my cylinder). I am guessing someone installed a standard, longer stud which now sticks out more! If it does the job, that is fine :) Hope your bike is still up and running!
Image

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Re: Top end seize

Posted: 04:58 pm Jan 03 2018
by Friedom
ToXic wrote:
Friedom wrote:Update: opened up the right side cover and sure enough the shifter return spring was not connected. It might have been installed upside down by some bozo. All better now.
Also got a motion pro 12/14mm torque wrench extension tool to properly torque my head bolts. All leaks seem to be straightened out with re torqueing and she's running fast and hard, except I think I need a larger PJ as it's gutless off the line and air screw is at 1/2.

Here's the head bolt sticking up I was talking about:
Image

"Fun Wheel Drive"
Hi, I read this thread some months ago and happened to read it again just now, thank you for sharing your experience!
I am rebuilding (more like restoring) my E4 and doing the top end, just finished installing new head studs. All 7 around the head are one P/N which you can still buy, but the centre one is different and it is no longer available from Kawasaki. Fortunately, mine was ok, all the others were too rusty for my taste and so were replaced. Anyway, that particular singular stud is shorter and has a stop (see a photo of my cylinder). I am guessing someone installed a standard, longer stud which now sticks out more! If it does the job, that is fine :) Hope your bike is still up and running!
Image

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Cheers on your e4!

My bike is running incredibly well. Every time I ride it (not often) I'm surprised by how fun it is.