KDXRIDER.NET

Well, the part on the left is a Boyesen reed cage. The thing on the right is the stock reed cage, but you don't have the outer part (carb boot) for it. Why didn't you just order replacement reeds for the cage? Take those tiny screws out and the reeds (2 pc each side) will come off. Those are the parts that you should be replacing.
Here is the cheapest I've found them.....http://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/900025751

6 Riders wrote:Well, the part on the left is a Boyesen reed cage. The thing on the right is the stock reed cage, but you don't have the outer part (carb boot) for it. Why didn't you just order replacement reeds for the cage? Take those tiny screws out and the reeds (2 pc each side) will come off. Those are the parts that you should be replacing.
Here is the cheapest I've found them.....http://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/900025751

the cage is chipped in the corner

My humble and possibly incorrect opinion...

The cage on the right looks like the stock setup and the left (given the sticker) looks like the Boysene replacement. I have dealt with the Boysene system, but it looks like it replaces the intake boot and cage with a single unit. I suspect that all is fine with this aluminum boot/cage so it's just a matter of checking the reeds. If they don't seal (I.e. Lay flat against the cage) then you can order new Boysene reeds.

As for the stock cage and reeds (right side of pic), not much good without the boot to attach to the carb.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

sorry, i can't edit that post with Tapatalk.

I agree with 6 riders in that the top left corner of the cage looks like a chunk of metal is missing. If that's the case new reeds won't help as the reeds will still not seal properly. If not, then I would just go to the Boyesen website and order replacement reeds. If you are unsure which to order then call Boyesen and I bet they can help get you the correct reeds.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Order a 55$ boot for the stock setup or a new 130$ rad valve from boyesen. Personally Id get the rad valve and return the stock cage

Sullyfam wrote:I agree with 6 riders in that the top left corner of the cage looks like a chunk of metal is missing. If that's the case new reeds won't help as the reeds will still not seal properly. If not, then I would just go to the Boyesen website and order replacement reeds. If you are unsure which to order then call Boyesen and I bet they can help get you the correct reeds.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

KDXohio wrote:Order a 55$ boot for the stock setup or a new 130$ rad valve from boyesen. Personally Id get the rad valve and return the stock cage

i put putty on the reed cage last night, filed it smooth, removed the excess, and flipped the reeds. it looked to be quite an improvement in sealing.

i ran the bike this morning, the repaired cage and OK sealing reed made zero difference.

i'm extremely skeptical the reeds are playing any role at all in the current poor performance of the engine.

since i've cleaned/checked/rejetted about 20 times now, the carburetor isn't a suspect either.

which leads me with .... nothing else to check, fix, or try, besides craigslist'ing the bike.

ohgood wrote:it looked to be quite an improvement in sealing.

OK sealing reed

So the reeds still aren't sealing correctly?

where are you located?

tedh -

i might could slide a .001" feeler gauge between the cage and reed, at the ends.

kdxohio- Birmingham Alabama

I just re-read the entire posting to make sure I properly recalled what all had been done. Holy smokes! This is truly baffling. You fixed the engine seal issue so no tran fluid loss, carb, petcock and air filter all cleaned and jetting was unchanged (at least original setting was tried). So air and fuel should be reaching the intake and now you have checked the reeds and did some work to ensure they are sealing. Have you checked the exhaust system from the header all the way to the pipe? If everything is flowing as it should leading into the cylinder, perhaps it's an issue on the exit? I know you have gone through the KIPS so take that variable out, but maybe a mouse is in the house? [emoji16]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sullyfam wrote:I just re-read the entire posting to make sure I properly recalled what all had been done. Holy smokes! This is truly baffling. You fixed the engine seal issue so no tran fluid loss, carb, petcock and air filter all cleaned and jetting was unchanged (at least original setting was tried). So air and fuel should be reaching the intake and now you have checked the reeds and did some work to ensure they are sealing. Have you checked the exhaust system from the header all the way to the pipe? If everything is flowing as it should leading into the cylinder, perhaps it's an issue on the exit? I know you have gone through the KIPS so take that variable out, but maybe a mouse is in the house? [emoji16]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i'll pull the pipe and see.

from today's attempts at electrical diagnosis:

two more hours wasted on the piece of ****.

40V AC at the lighting circuit, and

7.36 Ohms ( i guess, i'm not an electrician) on the Yellow to Black wire (from stator)

and

7.19 Ohms (i guess) on the White/Red to Black wire from stator.


The bike started fine the first time (like always) but then got progressively shittier and shittier until it took 10-15 kicks to get it to start again. Tried to ride around the neighborhood to watch the voltages, but it runs so completely **** right now that's not really possible.

The LED head/tail lights are working fine, but the bike runs so shitty it's pointless to try and get over 10 MPH with it to test jetting/whatever.

Any more suggestions ?

yep, the pipe is clear. hair dryer is blowing onthe stator... but i don't expect it to make any difference.

my money is on something in the carb worn out, or the whole carb worn out.

either way, it's time with me will end the day the title comes in. to much frustration to trust all those old, worn parts again.

Have you checked the floot height could be dumping more fuel in

KDXohio wrote:Have you checked the floot height could be dumping more fuel in

yes, i've checked ti about 12 times now. 16-17mm depending on the slop in the float's pivot.

this morning was testing the coils/stator with a hairdryer on it. no obvious changes. soooo , it's not electrical.

i don't understand what the manual is saying to check, or how, so this is what i have:



and


heat doesn't make any difference. what does it mean

That's K ohms you're reading, if that makes a difference.

Silverfox wrote:That's K ohms you're reading, if that makes a difference.

Greek or Chinese would be about the same, to me.

Does it always run better cold and then get worse as it heats up?

Are you in North, South, East or West part of Alabama?