KDXRIDER.NET

Coop wrote:So what's the scoop on your cylinder. Did you decide to install the coils and use it?

Yes, I'm going to fix the rest of the threads, use sealant on the deck and I bought an entire bolt kit for it.

Painted the top-end.

http://www.phospher.com/index.php/2000_KDX_200

Well,... check this out......





Made more progress today..

http://www.phospher.com/index.php/2000_KDX_200




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I bet that side gasket is leaking.

The engine looks really good, but I can say from experience that will chip quickly. When I did the KX60 for my nephew I wish that I just bead blasted it. I think it would have stayed nice longer.

Nice work though, I am looking forward to seeing it finished.

Coop wrote:I bet that side gasket is leaking.

The engine looks really good, but I can say from experience that will chip quickly. When I did the KX60 for my nephew I wish that I just bead blasted it. I think it would have stayed nice longer.

Nice work though, I am looking forward to seeing it finished.

You mean you think just the cover gasket is leaking,.. right? I haven't been able to get the flywheel off yet to look at the seal--waiting on my tusk puller first.

Yes I think the ignition cover gasket was/is leaking and that's why it got rusty. If the crank seal was leaking there would be oil in there and not rust.

Coop wrote:Yes I think the ignition cover gasket was/is leaking and that's why it got rusty. If the crank seal was leaking there would be oil in there and not rust.

Makes sense..

Rust removed, new top-end installed with all of the new parts. The engine is finally ready for installation!


man.......


http://www.phospher.com/index.php/2000_ ... 4:25pm_PST

Looks good.

that thing is spotless! Nice work.

heckler wrote:that thing is spotless! Nice work.

Coop wrote:Yes I think the ignition cover gasket was/is leaking and that's why it got rusty. If the crank seal was leaking there would be oil in there and not rust.

If the cranks seal was leaking why would oil be in the flywheel cover ??
Where do you suppose the oil would come from ??
Please elaborate.............

TWMOODY wrote:

Coop wrote:Yes I think the ignition cover gasket was/is leaking and that's why it got rusty. If the crank seal was leaking there would be oil in there and not rust.

If the cranks seal was leaking why would oil be in the flywheel cover ??
Where do you suppose the oil would come from ??
Please elaborate.............

The fuel mixture flows through the crankcase.

Around 1:22seconds http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MW1jixDvUSY

I assume the fuel pre-mix. The fuel will eventually evaporate leaving the raw unburnt oil and of course the exhaust spooge from the fuel that did ignite.

I say it would be sucking air and not leaking anything .

TWMOODY wrote:I say it would be sucking air and not leaking anything .

I'd imagine it's 50/50. Depends on the cycle.

If a left side crankshaft seal is leaking it can suck air causing the engine to rev to the moon. Often times before they get bad enough to cause uncontrolled revving, you will see signs of oil in the stator compartment.
So both items are signs of a bad crankshaft seal. Of course most bad crankshaft seals are caused by bad crankshaft bearings.

TWMOODY wrote:I say it would be sucking air and not leaking anything .

You would be incorrect. The premix flows all around the crank and through that area, therefor if the left crank seal is bad, that oil can leak out. Checking that stator side seal is common diagnostic for checking to see of the crank seal is bad or going bad.

Well, To the point it would leak any premix one would assume that the rider would have already noticed the uncontrollably high idle and fixed it.
Then again, maybe not.

bmiller wrote:I just got off of the phone with Eric.

He seemed real nonchalant about the condition of the cylinder. He said the pitting is normal after an acid wash and he recommends just using a little sealant. He also said Kawasaki's material is '****' which is why he always helicoils the threads. He missed a few threads which were damaged and I'll have to do them myself.


He also said the damaged/stripped cylinder plugs where like that when he got it and he had a hard time removing them.


Also, he did send me a different cylinder. My cylinder had a sleeve installed and couldn't be bored to 225. So,... it explains a lot.


I'm not sure how I feel about the whole situation.


Is 225cc worth the pitting and helicoils? I'm feeling it is,.. what do you guys think?

I'm just catching this now. I just can't believe it...it looks terrible in the pictures. I guess if your cylinder was sleeved, you may have got a lemon - were you charged extra for a core? When Eric did mine, my cylinder came back with the OEM threads, no issues. Also no pitting issues like on your deck (well there was some pitting in the bottom of the cylinder, but that is often inevitable in replate jobs - it does depend a lot on the quality of the original casting). Mine was done in 2002; Eric was based in his own shop in Beaver Dam and US Chrome was doing the plating at that time.

Anyway, my experience with the 225 from a performance standpoint is it was TOTALLY worth it. I guess it was a plus that I also had no quality issues, and received above average service (honestly) from Eric.