KDX 220: Rev vs Torque Pipe. A case study

Got questions? We got answers....
User avatar
Chuck78
Gold Member
Gold Member
Posts: 1325
Joined: 06:20 pm Nov 30 2016
Country: USA
Location: Columbus, OH
Has thanked: 91 times
Been thanked: 47 times

Re: KDX 220: Rev vs Torque Pipe. A case study

Post by Chuck78 »

Tokyotim wrote: 07:24 pm Dec 12 2025 After reading this I am going to change my kdx220 rev pipe for a woods pipe. I have the RB carb and head and squish mods (if I said that right) and to be honest this thing is a little bit of a monster and too much to ride tight technical stuff like I enjoy. I will start with a pipe swap and then try it, and if it’s still being nasty I’ll get a flywheel weight. It’s super fun how hard it pulls in open stretches but it is a nightmare in tight stuff lol
I doubt you'll need a flywheel weight if you just run a 48T / 13T sprocket combo and the Gnarly Woods pipe on a 220. The woods pipe makes it almost unstallable with my 45/12 gearing (similar to 48/13).
I've switched to the Pro Circuit Platinum 2 pipe this past 13 months again, but I immediately missed the smooth tractable torquey power delivery of the Gnarly Woods pipe on the 220, but I will say the bike is more fun to ride aggressively with the Pro Circuit Platinum 2, but it does come on quite strongly with a very noticeable midrange power surge, but I feel the Pro Circuit Platinum 2 is really the best overall pipe for the KDX200H AND the KDX220R...



When I get around to finally rebuilding my '99 220, it's going to get a KDX220SR head (more low-end focused than the 220R head or RB 220 heads) and the Gnarly Woods pipe again. The only reason I'll even consider running the Gnarly Desert pipe again would be for KDX/KX125 hybrid build purposes as the KDX pipes don't clear the front of the KX125 frame's front engine cradle area without a 10mm or so spacer like the FRP Torque Ring, which pushes the pipe out further forward, but also gives the pipe more of a low end torque boost while cutting the top end power as a tradeoff... I'd considered cutting and reworking the front of the frame (basically grafting the KDX lower front engine cradle tubes to a modified KX125 center frame member extended rearward), but turning up a spacer/extender/adapter in the lathe is a pretty easy task vs chopping apart and reworking the frame.
'97 KDX220R - purple/green! - KLX forks, Lectron, FMF, Tubliss
'99 KDX220R project - '98/'01 RM125 suspension, Titanium hardware, Lectron Billetron Pro, Tubliss
'77 Suzuki PE250 & '83 Suzuki PE175 Full Floater - restomod projects
'77 Suzuki GS750-844cc, '77 GS400/489cc & '77 GS550/740cc projects
'62 GMC 1000 Panel Truck
'88 Suzuki Samurai TDI/Toyota swaps
'88 Toyota 4x4 pickup
Post Reply