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I'd feel better if you confirmed that you read up on the mechanism, understand it, indeed DO have all the parts, and they are correctly snuggled in their rightful places.

Maybe the advancer assy all came out in one piece...but from reading 'flopped out' I imagined pins falling out with subsequent bouncing balls, sproinging springs and much mayhem.

Spring pressure would hopefully hold it altogether.


I've got 'compressor in a bottle' that I think will work.

...several bottles actually. Certainly I'm going to give it a shot...or five.



So..it's good? It's all back together shifting and kicking happily?

And with any luck at all...the KIPS works, too!

Wouldn't that be simply marvelous!!!???

Good job! See? You could do it..you DID do it...no shop charges.

AND I'm willing to bet you learned a thing or to in the process.

THAT is a good thing!

THansk Canyncvr.

I have learned much and no balls or spring flew out.. (except maybe from my own pants..)..

I am awaiting gaskets before I mount cover back onto case - Tuesday (2 days time).

When I re-install everything, I will attempt to start and report back..

PS - I learn that stronger clutch springs prevailed after 1998 or 99.

What is the part number for these stronger clutch springs?

Byte

Not so... they will more than likely be out of tolerance when you get them... carry on...

THanks Indawoods.

What happens when I read when people change out their clutch springs?

How do they ensure tolerance specs are met?

Byte

If they work... they are good. 95 springs are supposed to be weak... I bought some heavy duty replacement springs..... my old ones felt stronger. As long as your plates are wearing evenly and your clutch functions properly... they are good.

I finally had a chance to read through this . . . or TRY to read through it. Lots going on.

If I understand correctly, though, you got the thangs back together - RIGHT?

Hi Jeb.

A great post hey - lots of disjoint everywhere but somehow we all managed to stay on track....

I think I am sorted now.

Just awaiting my gaskets (that I screwed up) for my clutch cover and case and then I will reinstall. I love it! :-)

I'll report back after I succeed..

How are u Canyncrv?

Byte

Re: 'I'll report back after I succeed.. '

We'll see...........

Byte - you've paid homage to the God of How the Heck is THIS Supposed to Work, endured greasy clothes and bloody fingers, and probably even managed to learn a little of the Holeedayum language. You'll feel better when it's over (and it will be soon); in fact, I suspect you'll swear your ride somehow seems faster.

. . . and that Carvr guy - ain't he great? Not bad for a guy that looks like Joel Walsh on a bad hair day with a horrible sinus infection!

THanks Jeb.

You are correct. I even caught a very bad cold - on the verge of pnuemonia - when I was out in the cold backyard (day and night) for 2 days trying to work this one out..

I got my gaskets from the dealer and tonight is the night when I re-install.

Canycrvr is great - I knwo he gets off on this sort of Holeedayum dialogue...

Byte

Back!

Both new gaskets are on...

But, I do not know how to reinstall that rod that is vertical and sits inside behind the clutch cover. This rod has flat in the middle to accommodate the clutch push rod.

I can fit the vertical rod (don't know it's correct name) OK but then when the clutch cover is on this vertical rod does not rotate.



It should rotate as it is linked up with the clutch wire.

Help?


Byte

It's very very hard to rotate it by hand. You can put some vice grips or something on it to rotate it enough to get the clutch cable on. Make sure when you're putting the cover on that the flat spot is facing towards the clutch.

thanks.

atm, clutch cable remains connected.

do i need to disconnect it?

and, once cover is screwed back on, how do i connect the wire spring back onto top of this rod?

Byte

Just put it back together. It will all become clear then. It's only a return spring.... .

Re: 'once cover is screwed back on, how do i connect the wire spring back onto top of this rod?'

It is already ON the rod..right? And hopefully right side up? I think it's directional anyway. The end tangs are bent differently?

You could probably 'screw' it onto the rod if you happened to leave it off.

The top tab fits against the lever putting pressure on it as if to pull on the clutch cable. The bottom tab fits against the case.

PUT it where it's supposed to go with a needlenose plier, mechanics scribe, spring puller, or something similar.


Re: 'It should rotate as it is linked up with the clutch wire.'

You're saying you cannot pull the clutch lever to rotate that lever? Or is it as juliend said, you were trying to move it by hand?

Re: 'clutch cable remains connected. do i need to disconnect it?'

Huh? You would 'need' to disconnect it...why?

The lever will rotate by hand (with a tool) when the clutch cable is connected. You can OVERrotate it by hand that way, past the flat of the shaft to the round of the shaft. Then the shaft will just sit there. Clutch spring tension will not act on a round shaft to move it back to its 'start' position.

Oh, you DO rotate the lever by hand to DIS/RE-connect the cable..whenever that is necessary for whatever reason. I use a 10" adjustable wrench.

thanks guys,

i'll have a play later (after work)in about 10 hours time...

"It is already ON the rod..right?" - yes

"....Or is it as juliend said, you were trying to move it by hand?" - yes

"You would 'need' to disconnect it...why?" - just asking

Byte

by "by hand" I meant with your hands and no tool. Like Carvr mentioned, a 10" adjustable or some other sort of cheater bar may be needed to rotate the lever "by hand".

:D

Good luck!!!

Update -

It's 10pm and everything is now fitted back on.

I fill up case with oil and ensure sufficient coolant.

I sit on bike and kick over.

First impressions - easier to kick over but I suspect the exhaust pipe is not embedded in properly at cylinder - hence causing loss of compression and less resistance to kicker. Lighting is insufficient and is getting late and so I was unable to proceed further.

Bike did not start but I was not kicking too hard in any case...just happy to have it operate I guess.... :-)

I notice the choke does not extend up fully because fuel petcock stem seems to block the choke's travel - Please advise.

Also, which way must the fuel petcock arm be pointing when trying to start bike and which way should it point when not running?

Tomorrow in daylight I will pull the damn pipe again and check for fitment and put new fuel in and try to start it....

Byte

Light may allow for you to anwer a lot of these yourself.