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Re: Rear Shock questions and Ideas

Posted: 09:10 pm Mar 11 2025
by Chopperpilot
Yeah, I think I'm going to try drilling and tapping the cap to take a brass 1/8" MNPT schrader valve.

Re: Rear Shock questions and Ideas

Posted: 10:15 pm Mar 11 2025
by KDXGarage
Look on eBay for a junk shock to get another cap. I did the same 20 years ago.

Pull up, without wiggling it too much side to side.

Re: Rear Shock questions and Ideas

Posted: 03:36 pm Mar 12 2025
by Chuck78
Chopperpilot wrote: 03:31 pm Mar 11 2025 The reservoir on the YZ shock is way too long.......like the clevis is. So is he suggesting swapping the clevis onto the 16 or 18mm YZ shaft?
Yes, he said he pulled them both apart after watching a video on how to remove KYB clevises off of shocks, and found that they will directly interchange, the KDX clevis onto the 2012 YZ250F shock. He said the reservoir position was the same KDX200H vs '12 YZ250F.
The only concern I would have would be whether or not the reservoir will clear the exhaust, as I'm not sure he has the expansion chamber on the bike at present, or if he's tried to test fit it on the bike. I'll double check with him before he orders Race Tech Gold Valves for both the YZ fork and shock.

EDIT - he said he's getting back in the shop today assemble everything with his potential Yamaha YZ shock retrofit for the KDX to see if it will indeed fit the way it needs to.

Re: Rear Shock questions and Ideas

Posted: 12:42 pm Mar 14 2025
by Chopperpilot
OK, the YZ shock I have (which I think is an 06/07??) the reservoir is definitely too long.
I got a deal on a 99 CR250R shock (the showa bladder cap is apparently the same as the KYB bladder cap according to the aftermarket) to fix my KDX shock. So we'll have another comparison shock soon...... haha. The CRF has HS compression adjustment and is a 46mm.

Re: Rear Shock questions and Ideas

Posted: 04:28 pm Apr 14 2025
by kirkpz
the clevis will not work as the needle and shock shaft are different. The RM 250 needle also will not work on the DRZ 400 shock so the lower clevis is not adaptable

Re: Rear Shock questions and Ideas

Posted: 01:26 am Apr 24 2025
by Chopperpilot
Ok, interesting discovery. Other than the carb, bigger bore, and ports, there's no difference between a 2001 KDX 200 and a KDX 220 right? Well I'm finally doing up the Race Tech GV in the KDX shock and put in all my information. I put that I had a 2001 KDX 220R instead of my KDX 200 (only because they didn't have a selection for my 225 Big Bore KDX!!). Anyway, I noticed that the recommended shock spring rate was different. Anyone got any ideas why? RT recommends a 4.8 Kg/mm spring on a KDX 220 (for my 184lbs weight and trail riding) but a 5.18kg/mm for a KDX 200......... wth?

Re: Rear Shock questions and Ideas

Posted: 12:38 pm Apr 24 2025
by Chopperpilot
I called RT today just to see if they knew why it would have different spring recommendations between a 200 and 220 and if the valve stack would be much/any different. Jeff (the tech) thought it was odd too and thought that maybe the rocker horn was slightly different or something. I guess looking up part #s would solve that little mystery, and I'm assuming there is no difference or our community would already know.
Yep, just looked, same part # for 200/220. Wonder why the lighter spring recommendation for the 220 KDX?

Re: Rear Shock questions and Ideas

Posted: 09:56 pm Apr 24 2025
by KDXGarage
It is because their calculator is wrong. Is 184 your weight in your birthday suit, as the RT calculator shows? I suggest you get some street rubber pegs to save your feet when riding naked. OH WAIT. You ride with gear on? Then look on calculators for a geared up weight. That includes any food, drink, spare parts, tools, etc.

Another difference of the KDX220R was an o-ring chain instead of non-ring chain on the KDX200. Don't forget the flapper valve in the KIPS. You wouldn't want the KDX200 flapper to go into a KDX220R cylinder that deep, would ya? :-)

I would day that for most folks on a 1995 plus model that ROUGHLY:

175 - 5.0
200 - 5.2
225 - 5.4

Yes, a stiffer spring will rebound more quickly and compress more slowly. Adjust valving and clickers accordingly.