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Try the guru:

https://www.frpoffroad.com/

You need a clutch hub holding tool to tighten that nut properly. They're cheap at rocky mountain, or your local shop likely has one if you're willing to pony up.

Man, something just doesn't add up here. The clutch system is pretty simple, there's not much that can go wrong. You're running the engine when you try to get it to disengage, right? Have you got the correct number of plates in there? The judder springs don't matter, so it's good that you left those out.

Put your stock actuator back in. Let's see pics of your outer cover (inside and outside)

Here is my finished clutch pack, 8 frictions, with a Pro-X basket. No adjustment washers required, and my clutch lever pull is short, maybe 2" from completely engaged to disengaged.

I completely agree. I am completely stumped. I've done a clutch rebuild on my yz450 before and the clutch on that I felt was a bit more complicated. I'm clearly screwing something up. I'm noticing your springs and the spring "cover" are way farther out than mine. The manual says the torque should be 8 foot pounds for the clutch spring bolts. Look like you have an aftermarket basket to but I can't imagine it being much different than stock..

Here's what it looks like on the bike..


Here's a side view..


Front view off the bike..


You can see here when not engaged how far the compression lever is back..


When engaged it's like it goes to the position it should be starting at.


Thanks again guys for sticking with this slow challenged mechanic.

In my photo above those bolts are not yet torqued. Only finger tight. I torqued them once installed into the bike.

Your problem is your actuator piston. It’s sticking out way too far.

Your center spring holding plate is on upside down. Those 4 tabs need to go around the springs, and the bearing and retainer sit down INSIDE that piece. Have you had it upside down the entire time? Make sure those springs are centered in their detents as you torque the 10mm bolts.

Wow...are you kidding me?!I'm a complete idiot! It's been upside down the entire time..lord help me. Can we delete this post?! How embarrassing. I'm gonna give it a shot after lunch.

Slick Nick is the man!

DenverKdxRider wrote: 10:15 am Jun 28 2021...

Please note :
- From the Cyclepedia manual :
"Install the clutch plates in the above order until the clutch stack is built. Place the last drive plate on the outer tangs of the clutch hub."
Don't know if it will really change somethings but I noticed your last friction plate should be on the other groove.

JoKDX220r wrote: 06:40 pm Jun 28 2021

DenverKdxRider wrote: 10:15 am Jun 28 2021...

Please note :
- From the Cyclepedia manual :
"Install the clutch plates in the above order until the clutch stack is built. Place the last drive plate on the outer tangs of the clutch hub."
Don't know if it will really change somethings but I noticed your last friction plate should be on the other groove.

Already covered this. It doesn’t matter.

The OEM service manual states this as well. See my above pic. Only the stock basket even has this provision.

A picture is worth a thousand words.

Good catch, Nick!

Sooooooo, did you get it working with everything facing the proper direction?

Yes! That was it. Please add me to the idiot hall of fame! Thanks slick_nick and team for hanging in there with me!

DenverKdxRider wrote: 07:06 pm Jun 30 2021 Please add me to the idiot hall of fame!

Nah, we've all done stuff like that at one time or another. You learned from it so all is good. Welcome to the club of hard knocks!

Sweet! I am not alone.
My best so far is engine rebuild on a forerunner. Forgot to put the rear freeze plugs in, since they were blocked from view on the engine stand. Didn’t realize until everything was 100% reinstalled with keys in the ignition and last item on the list was to add water.
Glad you found the issue !