KDXRIDER.NET

I installed the new KIPS valves last night. I made sure to soak them in two stroke oil before installing. Getting the left and right valve set was easy, but it took several tries before I had the center valve working. Now they're in and the action is smooth. So next on the list is the new one top end... (I should have it done before weeks end)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can't believe how cool the kips system is. It's like driving modes - baby it and you have gentle quiet cruising (is it still running?),
Get on it a little for gettin stuff done, or sit above 6k to have power on demand for anything.
I still have yet to find where the pulling stops. Tested with an old tire, and when it was pulling solid at 60, I didn't feel comfortable going faster yet.
No wonder people love these bikes. Crazy fun.

Fun Wheel Drive

I rechecked the KIPS valves and found the left one was one tooth off... It's been corrected and the cylinder is good to go.

I pulled the bottom end out from the boxes of parts for an inspection. While the crank has zero play, I can hear a grinding noise coming from the clutch side when I turn the crank over. I was told it has a new clutch. So without digging deeper I'm assuming a gear (possibly the idler gear) is incorrectly installed and rubbing against the case. I pull the clutch side covers to inspect the internals. I'll bet it's something simple. At least I'm hoping it is.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just saw something like this on the DR350 thread. The guy had used soft copper between the gears to stop the engine from turning, and there was a little bit of copper left. It was an intermittent grinding though. Did someone rebuild your engine for you?

Fun Wheel Drive

The previous owner said he replaced the clutch... I haven't been into the cases yet.. So I'm not sure what I'm going to find. I'll pull the clutch side cover off and inspect the internals.
I wanted to inspect the internals anyway prior to rebuilding building the motor. So now I have a valid reason other than my OCD... Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hope it's an easy find!

Fun Wheel Drive

Well I had a chance to check over the bottom end... As I turned the engine over I could hear a noise coming from around the kick starter... So I need to open the side case. Well my guess of the idler gear was almost right... The return spring for the kick shaft was not in the proper place and was being rubbed by the clutch drive gear...

I did a little dance and put it back into position. I spun the engine over... No noises. So I put the side case back on, spin over the motor and hear another noise... So after some investigation. I see a tooth missing on the water pump gear...


When I had the case off, the water pump gear was still in the case so no noises when I spun over the bottom. When I reinstalled the case cover the missing tooth makes a notice when passes over the drive gear. So now I need a water pump gear


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Whew. Close one. Might consider a new wp seal if you're ordering parts anyways.

Fun Wheel Drive

Friedom wrote:Whew. Close one. Might consider a new wp seal if you're ordering parts anyways.

Fun Wheel Drive

Yes it was. I had a feeling it was something simple... No wonder the PO stopped riding it... It would have been very noisy.

This is what happens when you reinstall the case and don't turn the crank so the gears can line up... Ask me how I know... Yes I too have made this mistake in the past...

The good news is I found the problem, and can proceed installing the top end while I wait for other parts. The other good news is the rest of the internals are in great shape... It's shifts smooth, and the crank is in great shape. I'll replace the water pump shaft along with the seal... We're getting closer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

While waiting to figure out the water pump shaft issue, I installed the top end.. The last few motors I've worked on were 4 strokes... 2 strokes are so simplistic.

I bought a complete Wiseco top end (gaskets, piston, rings, clips, piston pin, and rid bearing). Here's the top end getting installed.



The completed motor minus a water pump


And of course the broken water pump shaft


The engine minus the water pump shaft really turns over very smooth, no noises. With the water pump shaft in place, every time the missing tooth rolled through the drive gear, you'd hear a loud thump... I'll put the motor aside for now while I wait for a shaft and I'll begin my focus on getting the frame and getting the chassis ready


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was struggling to find the correct waterpump shaft. There's quite a few for the "H" series but not the "E" series. I did some research, and found the input shaft was the same for the H & E series, as well as the drive gear... The output shafts were different. The "H" series was longer and much thicker than the "E" series. I took a chance and purchased a shaft for an "H" series for $10 hoping I could machine it down to the proper size...

"H" vs. "E" shaft


Well I'm happy to report success... The machinist where I work was able to chuck the "H" series shaft into the lathe and turn down the shaft to the correct size, cut it to the proper length, and even drilled and tapped the end so the impeller will bolt on...

New vs. old



I should have the motor done and in the frame this weekend.

We're one step closer to putting this bike back into the dirt.. boogie:

I installed the retooled H series shaft. The output shaft was pretty tight but slid into place. I reinstalled the clutch side cover, being careful to make sure the shaft engages the drive gear. Spinning over the motor... No noises, Next is to drop the motor back into the frame and getting on with the rebuild


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One of the more difficult tasks about basket cases is where does everything go... I'm not the one who dismantled the bike so this part can be a bit of a challenge I've started instilling items back into the bike... Air box, filter etc. Mechanical items fall into place as I've worked on enough bikes and they're basically the same... Taking a bunch of wires and trying to figure out what goes where can be a bit more of a challenge... I guess I need to pull out the service manual


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The wires are widely straight forward. So much so that if the original connectors are on it, there's only one place a lot of things can go.
I just did the wiring on two E series bikes, and built one from the ground up. Feel free to ask questions!

Fun Wheel Drive

Dropped in the engine, air box, and a few other odds and ends. I thought I should grease the swing arm bearings.... What bearings... One side had 1/2 the bearings, the other MIA... Plus both are seized to the swingarm




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've got a whole spare swingarm, linkage, etc. LMK if any of it would interest you.

Fun Wheel Drive

As I take a 2nd look at the wiring... The connections from the voltage regulator were throwing me off... Those are used only if you have a battery... which I do not... So on this bike nothing connects there. I was confused as I had everything connected except for those two leads. So all is good in the wiring dept.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's good to run the regulator so you don't blow headlight / tail bulbs when the voltage spikes at different RPM.

Fun Wheel Drive

What he said.

Great job so far!

Next will be to get the seized swingarm bearings out... This ought to be fun... I started hitting them with a BFin hammer. They didn't budge. I'll need heat and a press. I'll get em out.. I'm sure it will require some offensive language, but I'll get em out Lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkq