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ohgood wrote:at first i thought it was because of the cold weather, then i looked at the sight glass, and realized all the (half way filled prior to starting) transmission fluid was gone.

How much riding did you do when you lost the tranny fluid?

Tedh98 wrote:

at first i thought it was because of the cold weather, then i looked at the sight glass, and realized all the (half way filled prior to starting) transmission fluid was gone.

How much riding did you do when you lost the tranny fluid?

I haven't ridden it yet, just ran it up/down the rpm range enough to get it warn, then shut it off.

in working slow as molasses, looking for problems as I go.

this morning, pulled the clutch cover to look for problems.

the seal looks great...

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but I haven't gotten plus to pressurize it yet. short trip on the drz and I'll report back...

ohgood wrote:I haven't ridden it yet, just ran it up/down the rpm range enough to get it warn, then shut it off.

Wow, that is a huge leak to loose that much fluid in such a short time.

Did you use OEM seals?

I used HotRod bearings and seals. They installed easily enough, just like the old seals/bearings came out. Everything seemed normal really. Gues I'll have to put more pressure on it today and listen more closely, no leaks noticed yet. WEIRD.

I did a pressure test and thought I screwed something up because I didn't get a pressure drop. But it was clear my seals were leaking.

Then I read that a vacuum test can have a different outcome.

I've always used OEM bearing and seals when it comes to the bottom end. With the OEM seals installed, there is a slight drag when you spin the crank. Did the seals you installed from Hot Rods have a similar drag or did the crank rotate as if they weren't there?

Tedh98 wrote:I did a pressure test and thought I screwed something up because I didn't get a pressure drop. But it was clear my seals were leaking.

Then I read that a vacuum test can have a different outcome.

I've always used OEM bearing and seals when it comes to the bottom end. With the OEM seals installed, there is a slight drag when you spin the crank. Did the seals you installed from Hot Rods have a similar drag or did the crank rotate as if they weren't there?

it was tight at first, but not enough to alarm me. I expected new bearings and seals to have a firmer feel, so it felt fine.

I can't get the plugs to stay on place, they just blow out after 2-3 psi from my crappy rigging:

. there is a tapered plug behind those door shims. it's sealed.



at the intake though this blows out and ruins the attempt:
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I managed to get some soapy water on the right side seal, and no, it is not leaking.

I think the case I would have to have a quarter inch gash in it to be pulling as much fluid as it was....
but there is no evidence of such a hole.

completely wtf'd now

Do you have a way to pull a vacuum?

G22inSC wrote:Do you have a way to pull a vacuum?

With the clutch cover bolted in place, what about applying a couple of pounds of air into the transmission vent tube? That would move the seal in the direction as if a vacuum was being applied, right?

With losing so much fluid in a short time, I would think you could blow through that tube and feel the leak. That is of course if that is the source.

Maybe some funk got in the seal. Last ditch effort, slip a feeler gauge in there and clean er out?
Did you dab some grease on the case seals when putting it together?

newbbewb wrote:Maybe some funk got in the seal. Last ditch effort, slip a feeler gauge in there and clean er out?
Did you dab some grease on the case seals when putting it together?

i slathered atf on the seals before installing the frozen crank.

just now I finally got a good deal on the intake and exhaust , and found an interesting leak behind the kips shaft, the one that rotates. pressure drops quickly, and appears to only be easing around the kips shaft seals, here:

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could it be sucking transmission fluid up the kips assembly and into the chamber?


that's all I have so far. putting on new seals for that shaft now

Are the seals installed backwards? I mean 3/4 a quart of trans fluid just like that is amazing.

6 Riders wrote:Are the seals installed backwards? I mean 3/4 a quart of trans fluid just like that is amazing.

good lord I hope not:
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OK, pressure test shows no leakage around the crank seal.

it does leak around the kips shaft, even with new seals there.

I moved a hose (to me ear) around the various transmission holes that circulate fluid, and found no other leaks.

it definitely will not hold pressure for even the slightest length of time though.

OK, now what?

Losing pressure around the exhaust, intake, spark plug, trans vent, kips plug on left side of the cylinder, etc? Gotta find it because it's going somewhere. Spray soapy water around all those areas until you are positive they are not your source(es) of pressure loss.

G22inSC wrote:Losing pressure around the exhaust, intake, spark plug, trans vent, kips plug on left side of the cylinder, etc? Gotta find it because it's going somewhere. Spray soapy water around all those areas until you are positive they are not your source(es) of pressure loss.

the only leak i can find now is around the kips shaft. i tried putting heavy grease around the inside of the shaft, and then pressurising the case, and only tiny bubbles eased out. it seems proportional to the pressure loss.


i'm going to assume it will pulse there, at the kips shaft, and possibly influence the airflow by 3/4 of one gnats ass hair.

i'm beginning to wonder how it is possible, with so many seals and gaskets, for an engine to hold 10psi for any amount of time, actually.

This is driving me nuts. At this point and time I'd imagine that you have a bad case, I'm not saying that you DO have one, but that's where I'd start looking. You didn't really post any pictures of the cases when you had them split....Did you take any?

6 Riders wrote:This is driving me nuts. At this point and time I'd imagine that you have a bad case, I'm not saying that you DO have one, but that's where I'd start looking. You didn't really post any pictures of the cases when you had them split....Did you take any?

you and me both.

the case halves came apart easily, and slipped back together easily too, once I got the inner race warm enough. there didn't appear to be any warp/flex/etc issues with them on reassembly.

the few pictures taken don't show any issue.

Sorry I haven't kept this updated, or replied enough.

Here's what I found:
one small leak at the center of the cases
one larger leak at the inner clutch cover gasket (not the round one)
(this one is the real idiot detector) one very loose drain plug (DOH!)
and a bad KIPS shaft seal or two


For all of your help, I would like to say thank you. I was very upset with the results, but now am much happier. I need to fine tune the carb now, as the first 1/8 throttle opening isn't smooth, and the power doesn't quite come on like it should, but other than that, bike runs great now.


Speaking of running great, I just took it on it's first street legal test ride around the neighborhood. What a hoot !

Awesome! Glad it's all sorted out. Thanks for the update. This thread will help many others.

s10gto wrote:Awesome! Glad it's all sorted out. Thanks for the update. This thread will help many others.

to tell the truth, the KIPS system is what had me worried about pulling it apart. now that i've done it (a few times LOL) i will have no resservations about doing it again once a year or so to check it's health and clean things up. i'm really impressed with the condition of the bore for as old as this machine is.

i am curious as to how much it will be to insure since it's tagged now. the drz is just over $119 a year, so this better be cheap ;-)