KDXRIDER.NET

If you have a few pictures that you want people to take a look at it is just easier for the people to have them in the thread instead of chasing them down.

rbates9 wrote:If you have a few pictures that you want people to take a look at it is just easier for the people to have them in the thread instead of chasing them down.

ok yeah ill put a couple up not all them thanks for the advice

I do have an e-series head. It has a few nicks in it from some previous damage. Nowhere near as bad as yours. If it were me I'd probably still get it resurfaced, but I'm sure it's usable. I will let it go cheap if you want to go that route. But right now on ebay....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-KDX200-CYL ... ff&vxp=mtr

That's the route I would go if it were me. $40 shipped for a head that looks to be in perfect condition is a pretty decent deal. Mine is pictured below. Not perfect, but not terrible. I'd say go for the Ebay head.

ohh so that's what there suppose to look like yeah I deffently want it how much you want for I I will of course pay shipping!

Did you check the ebay link? That's a pretty good deal at 39 bucks with free shipping. If you want mine, You can have it for $25, and I'll pay the shipping. I have been planning on sending it to RB to be modded, and then either keep it as a spare or use it in a future build. Been out in my shed for 5 years or so, so I don't suppose I'll ever get around to doing anything with it.

25 more then fair and yea I seen that on ebay but I got no money what so ever so this money im goin to have to scab off my mom or dad witch is hard witch is kind of good I guess but how you want to do this I cant send pms so???

PM's are for supporting members. You can send paypal to admin@kdxrider.net, just make sure you put what it's for in the notes.

ok in the notes write kdx 200 head? sound good? ill do that tomorrow night,,

sense this thread has been scattered everywhere there's no reason to start a new one ...but the question of the hour is why does my kick starter skip I have to go really slow on to it then it will ketch and I can push down hard and it doesn't skip . when I tore the motor apart I looked at the gear couldn't see anything wrong with it so any input would be great thanks!

Usually the ratchet gear teeth are worn, or the spring between them has gotten weak.

how do you go about fixing that .? buy new?

my vote goes to a weak spring. Had the same issue with mine.
A TEMPORARY quick fix: get the spring out and stretch it a bit being careful not to overdo it and mess up the spring shape and coil.
They are very cheap to replace (like 5 bux?)

Julien D wrote:I would want to split the cases. Whatever caused that top end damage to the head and piston almost certainly put a hurting on the bottom end bearings.

yup. open it up, get a manual 1st if you don't have one. Will save you (and us) lots of headache.
replacing bearings is the ONLY way to be sure no tiny piece a metal shaving is in the bottom end. Don't believe me, do a search and you shall hear horror stories...

yes I already got the bottom end opened I'm cleaning it obvisly and I bought new bearings because the ones in it now are really bad you can hear them and crank seals because they were leaking and yes I do have a manual and ok ill just buy the new spring if its only 5 bucks

I hate to say this, but if your main bearings are as bad as you say, I can't imagine the big end rod bearing would be any better. All 3 bearings are exposed to the same conditions.

To get some idea of how bad it is, try to measure how much up-and-down movement (radial clearance) the con rod has on the big end bearing. Ideally you would use a machinist's dial indicator to measure this movement, but I doubt you have one.

You might be able to rig up something with an adjustable threaded stop rod and feeler gauges. With the bike's con rod horizontal and the crank pin up, (12 o'clock position, and con rod small end resting on a wood block) push up on the con rod's big end and set your threaded stop rod so it just touches the outside of the con rod's big end. Now let the con rod rest on it's rollers and use feeler gauges to measure the clearance between your threaded stop rod and the outside of the con rod's big end.

The manual says the standard clearance is just a little more than one thousandth (.001) of an inch. The service limit is listed at .004". That's the thickness of a sheet of printer paper.

I hope this information is useful, and not too confusing. Good luck.

to be honest there's no up and down movement I sat there for about 10 min looking at it I mean theres a tiny bite like vary little I know its not bad but I can bring it to my guy that does the machine work and ill have him measure that hey lives right up rode from me

Julien d i didn't get any time to buy the head ill get to it this weekend .. sorry about that..

No worries. I'm out of town with no internet this weekend though, so you know.

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2

ok well maybe tomorrow late though but doesn't matters anyways because you cant send it .. so defiantly by Monday and i am selling one of my three wheelers and decided that im going to do this right well at least the motor but should be like new then later ill go back thru and change tires bearings etc,etc,,... good night

D you get the paypal thing