Posted: 12:56 am Aug 03 2005
Great news!!!!
The 2002 KX250 is in my garage and just wait until you hear what a deal I got. I wrote it all to Carvr earlier so, rather than retype it, here is a cut-n-paste of the info from that e-mail.
On the KX250. I am estatic!!!! WOWWWW!!!!!! This bike KICKS ASS!!!! The guy's friend did crash it, and it has tons of new stuff on it from the insureance claim. Even both radiators are BRAND NEW!!!! Not a single bent fin in there anywhere. I inspected the head where it bolts to the frame and there's no dirt, no sign of dirt and the machine marks sure look like the head is brand new as well. Looking at the barrel; it's condition compaired to the case it's bolted to, I'd say it's a new barrel as well. It's obvious the head and barrel, by little things like condition of nuts, crevises and such, compaired to the case and carb are new. It even has an Iridium plug in it. Looking at the plug, I found the only dirt on the top end; spooge all around the plug. I pulled the cap to yank the plug out, expecting to find a stripped spark plug hole and it was finger tight. Well, not even that. I put a wrench to it and could tell the plug was brand new and never had been seated by having the washer crushed. I suspect some shop replaced everything and forgot to tighten the plug. Even with the plug loose, the bike started the second kick when I went to pick it up. After I got home, several hours later, I thought I would test the cold compression (before I realized the plug was loose) by kicking slowly through a couple of times. Second half assed kick and the bike fired up!!! The gas had been left on and choke still on from when it was started at the time I picked it up. I took it straight to the DMV and got the title over to my name and a GREEN STICKER!!!! Too cool!! Then I went to the Kawasaki dealer. He looked at the frame crack (It's where the collar that holds the upper race is welded to the stem) and said he had a guy who does all his welding; to take the front end apart, wire wheel it clean, take it to his shop and he'd get it welded for about $20 when the guy came by next time. The welding guy goes to the shop once a week and does all the welding items that came in that week. The welder also builds custom motocycle chopper style frames, so I'm guessing he knows what he's doing. Sweet!!!
More inspection reveals that the ProCircuit pipe has one very small dent that can be covered with a nickle and another that can be covered with a quarter. The muffler is a PC unit too, but not a Spark Arrester. At the tail pipe. It was obvious that it had not been cleaned in several rides, due to the layer dusty dirt form desert riding. But, no spooge splattered. I took a shop rag and cleaned the bung hole. It had a crustly layer in there that was just barely wet. I doubt it had ever been cleaned in there. The lack of drool out the back, zero spooge at the pipe/barrel junction or at the pipe / muffler junction is a good sign. When warmed up, the exhaust note is so bright and crisp, it is quite obvious that it's jetted pretty dang good.
The carb is strange: Unlike any other carb I'm used to, where the top unscrews to access the slide and needle, this bike has a bolted on plate and electronics. 2 wires run out of it like it's got electronic control of the carb somehow. I've never heard of this. Do you know anything about this?
What the bike needs: seat cover and graphics; already on their way via eBay. Chain and sprockets. Both look stock and the chain is toast. When lifting the rear wheel while the bike is on the stand, I have some slop. I suspect the lower shock bearing but didn't look too close. Side to side movement of the rear wheel doesn't exist. So the swing arm bearings are probably good.
Word of advise: Always buy a used bike from someone who lives in the desert. The bare frame spots that get rubbed of paint are bright and shiney aluminum or steel. No sign of oxidation.
Seat of the pants test. After warming it up, I headed up my driveway.... and stalled it. I'm so lazy with my autoclutch, I didn't give it enough gas. The stock gearing in first and second is a bit tall for the trail work I want to do, but I'm going to have Gary do the auto clutch thing to this very early in the hop-up schedule. Otherwise, I would spring for a fly wheel weight and, after checking around, swap 1st and 2nd with gears from a early 90's KX250. Several guys say this is the hot ticket and gives the KX250 a wide ratio gear box. Evedently the earlier bikes had lower first and second gears that work perfect in the 1999 /2002 tranny. If I just changed the CS sprocket, the top end speed would suffer bad. As it is, I suspect my KDX even with a 1 tooth smaller CS sprocket has a higher top speed. I didn't open the 250 wide to find out, just what it seemed traveling the same street I do many times with the KDX. So, getting the bike started again, I take up the driveway and poke up and down the street; getting a feeling for the bike's throttle response. Then I tested the "front wheel lift" response. 1st, 1/2 throttle; no more, and the front scratched the sky. Second, I let her roll a little higher in rpms before wicking the throttle. 3/4 throttle and 2nd was lofting the front end too. Find 3rd and quick with the throttle and the front never touched the ground. using throttle only, it was easy to hold a power wheelie by slowy rolling on more throttle. Chop the throttle and find 4th, wick that bad boy and 4 wheelies but it would take some body engish to get it high up. Didn't want to try 5th. Motor sounds very tight; exhaust note sharp and crisp, 4 stroking where it should, snap where it should be too. I can tell, this bike wants a rider to let it run free. I'm quite sure that it will be a handful in the tight woods as-is. Forks don't seem to have the stiction I've seen with my KX/KDX front forks. They easily respond to my weight applied to the bars when standing next to the bike without the brake applied. Rear shock seal is blown, but since it is dirty, I can't tell how bad. Just that there's a layer of oil enough to catch the dust in. Back on street, at a quicker speed, maybe 40-45 mph, the front shakes. Not left right, more like forward/ backward. My KDX does this too, but it seems the KX is more. Might just be me looking for something and it's the same as the KDX. Testing side-by-side will tell for sure later. Sitting on the bike, the saddle height is very close to the tall seat foam fitted KDX I have. My wife observed that the KX looks much bigger but when I rolled it next to the KDX she then said I guess not really, it just looks more agressive. And that's true; the KDX looks much tamer, even with the MX fenders and such. I think it's the tank /seat along with the pipe diameter and muffler differences.
Well, there ya go guys! This is going to be one awesome woods machine when I'm done. Not a machine for everyday riding, but for those days when you just want to rape the trails and go crazy. Compared to the KX500 my friend, Doug, rides, this bike is not nearly so scary fast. It tops out speed wise pretty early and there is a solid pull from down low, (not KDX220 low) to mid rpms, at which point the KIPS kicks it in the ass and makes the bike almost feel like the secondaries on a 4 barrel holly dual pumper just kicked in. Not light switch-like, but a good push; just shy of a shove that would require some effort to get things back under control. I call it about right!!!
Parts list for the bike:
Graphics and seat cover set
Turbine Core S/A muffler
front disk guard
carbon fiber head brace
Stainless steel front brake line routed CR style
Kick stand
Scotts dampner
Grips
Frame guards
Gasket Kit
Carbon Fiber rear brake guard
Carbon fiber fork guards
Carbon fiber case guard
1/2 vent front # plate
skid plate
service manual
Air filter
Throttle cable
Radiator brace
Flywheel weight
Bark Busters
VForce III reed valve
Auto clutch
Hand operated rear brake
Rear rim 2.15 x 18
Total for all these parts is $1800. The bike with shipping and DMV fees was $1100. Total was $2900. Now if that was just a stock 2002 in good shape that would be one thing, but with all the aftermarket stuff, it's the ultimate. By holding off on the auto clutch, the hand rear brake and swapping the dampner between the bikes, the total drops to $1900. That's TOTAL!!!! There was a 2000 KX250 used at the dealer on consignment with a sticker of $3450 on it. It was clean, but totally stock. How fast I do all these things, who knows? I still need to inspect bearings, top end, rebuild the shock, (or have my buddy Jason do it, old buddy, old pal) rebuild the shim stack, etc. but don't expect much trouble there. This bike will be a KDX on steroids; not the everyday rider but for those times when I'm feeling froggy and wanna kick it up some. As a loaner bike, it will be hard to determine which bike gets loaned on a particular day. Rider skill will be needing to be considered too.
The 2002 KX250 is in my garage and just wait until you hear what a deal I got. I wrote it all to Carvr earlier so, rather than retype it, here is a cut-n-paste of the info from that e-mail.
On the KX250. I am estatic!!!! WOWWWW!!!!!! This bike KICKS ASS!!!! The guy's friend did crash it, and it has tons of new stuff on it from the insureance claim. Even both radiators are BRAND NEW!!!! Not a single bent fin in there anywhere. I inspected the head where it bolts to the frame and there's no dirt, no sign of dirt and the machine marks sure look like the head is brand new as well. Looking at the barrel; it's condition compaired to the case it's bolted to, I'd say it's a new barrel as well. It's obvious the head and barrel, by little things like condition of nuts, crevises and such, compaired to the case and carb are new. It even has an Iridium plug in it. Looking at the plug, I found the only dirt on the top end; spooge all around the plug. I pulled the cap to yank the plug out, expecting to find a stripped spark plug hole and it was finger tight. Well, not even that. I put a wrench to it and could tell the plug was brand new and never had been seated by having the washer crushed. I suspect some shop replaced everything and forgot to tighten the plug. Even with the plug loose, the bike started the second kick when I went to pick it up. After I got home, several hours later, I thought I would test the cold compression (before I realized the plug was loose) by kicking slowly through a couple of times. Second half assed kick and the bike fired up!!! The gas had been left on and choke still on from when it was started at the time I picked it up. I took it straight to the DMV and got the title over to my name and a GREEN STICKER!!!! Too cool!! Then I went to the Kawasaki dealer. He looked at the frame crack (It's where the collar that holds the upper race is welded to the stem) and said he had a guy who does all his welding; to take the front end apart, wire wheel it clean, take it to his shop and he'd get it welded for about $20 when the guy came by next time. The welding guy goes to the shop once a week and does all the welding items that came in that week. The welder also builds custom motocycle chopper style frames, so I'm guessing he knows what he's doing. Sweet!!!
More inspection reveals that the ProCircuit pipe has one very small dent that can be covered with a nickle and another that can be covered with a quarter. The muffler is a PC unit too, but not a Spark Arrester. At the tail pipe. It was obvious that it had not been cleaned in several rides, due to the layer dusty dirt form desert riding. But, no spooge splattered. I took a shop rag and cleaned the bung hole. It had a crustly layer in there that was just barely wet. I doubt it had ever been cleaned in there. The lack of drool out the back, zero spooge at the pipe/barrel junction or at the pipe / muffler junction is a good sign. When warmed up, the exhaust note is so bright and crisp, it is quite obvious that it's jetted pretty dang good.
The carb is strange: Unlike any other carb I'm used to, where the top unscrews to access the slide and needle, this bike has a bolted on plate and electronics. 2 wires run out of it like it's got electronic control of the carb somehow. I've never heard of this. Do you know anything about this?
What the bike needs: seat cover and graphics; already on their way via eBay. Chain and sprockets. Both look stock and the chain is toast. When lifting the rear wheel while the bike is on the stand, I have some slop. I suspect the lower shock bearing but didn't look too close. Side to side movement of the rear wheel doesn't exist. So the swing arm bearings are probably good.
Word of advise: Always buy a used bike from someone who lives in the desert. The bare frame spots that get rubbed of paint are bright and shiney aluminum or steel. No sign of oxidation.
Seat of the pants test. After warming it up, I headed up my driveway.... and stalled it. I'm so lazy with my autoclutch, I didn't give it enough gas. The stock gearing in first and second is a bit tall for the trail work I want to do, but I'm going to have Gary do the auto clutch thing to this very early in the hop-up schedule. Otherwise, I would spring for a fly wheel weight and, after checking around, swap 1st and 2nd with gears from a early 90's KX250. Several guys say this is the hot ticket and gives the KX250 a wide ratio gear box. Evedently the earlier bikes had lower first and second gears that work perfect in the 1999 /2002 tranny. If I just changed the CS sprocket, the top end speed would suffer bad. As it is, I suspect my KDX even with a 1 tooth smaller CS sprocket has a higher top speed. I didn't open the 250 wide to find out, just what it seemed traveling the same street I do many times with the KDX. So, getting the bike started again, I take up the driveway and poke up and down the street; getting a feeling for the bike's throttle response. Then I tested the "front wheel lift" response. 1st, 1/2 throttle; no more, and the front scratched the sky. Second, I let her roll a little higher in rpms before wicking the throttle. 3/4 throttle and 2nd was lofting the front end too. Find 3rd and quick with the throttle and the front never touched the ground. using throttle only, it was easy to hold a power wheelie by slowy rolling on more throttle. Chop the throttle and find 4th, wick that bad boy and 4 wheelies but it would take some body engish to get it high up. Didn't want to try 5th. Motor sounds very tight; exhaust note sharp and crisp, 4 stroking where it should, snap where it should be too. I can tell, this bike wants a rider to let it run free. I'm quite sure that it will be a handful in the tight woods as-is. Forks don't seem to have the stiction I've seen with my KX/KDX front forks. They easily respond to my weight applied to the bars when standing next to the bike without the brake applied. Rear shock seal is blown, but since it is dirty, I can't tell how bad. Just that there's a layer of oil enough to catch the dust in. Back on street, at a quicker speed, maybe 40-45 mph, the front shakes. Not left right, more like forward/ backward. My KDX does this too, but it seems the KX is more. Might just be me looking for something and it's the same as the KDX. Testing side-by-side will tell for sure later. Sitting on the bike, the saddle height is very close to the tall seat foam fitted KDX I have. My wife observed that the KX looks much bigger but when I rolled it next to the KDX she then said I guess not really, it just looks more agressive. And that's true; the KDX looks much tamer, even with the MX fenders and such. I think it's the tank /seat along with the pipe diameter and muffler differences.
Well, there ya go guys! This is going to be one awesome woods machine when I'm done. Not a machine for everyday riding, but for those days when you just want to rape the trails and go crazy. Compared to the KX500 my friend, Doug, rides, this bike is not nearly so scary fast. It tops out speed wise pretty early and there is a solid pull from down low, (not KDX220 low) to mid rpms, at which point the KIPS kicks it in the ass and makes the bike almost feel like the secondaries on a 4 barrel holly dual pumper just kicked in. Not light switch-like, but a good push; just shy of a shove that would require some effort to get things back under control. I call it about right!!!
Parts list for the bike:
Graphics and seat cover set
Turbine Core S/A muffler
front disk guard
carbon fiber head brace
Stainless steel front brake line routed CR style
Kick stand
Scotts dampner
Grips
Frame guards
Gasket Kit
Carbon Fiber rear brake guard
Carbon fiber fork guards
Carbon fiber case guard
1/2 vent front # plate
skid plate
service manual
Air filter
Throttle cable
Radiator brace
Flywheel weight
Bark Busters
VForce III reed valve
Auto clutch
Hand operated rear brake
Rear rim 2.15 x 18
Total for all these parts is $1800. The bike with shipping and DMV fees was $1100. Total was $2900. Now if that was just a stock 2002 in good shape that would be one thing, but with all the aftermarket stuff, it's the ultimate. By holding off on the auto clutch, the hand rear brake and swapping the dampner between the bikes, the total drops to $1900. That's TOTAL!!!! There was a 2000 KX250 used at the dealer on consignment with a sticker of $3450 on it. It was clean, but totally stock. How fast I do all these things, who knows? I still need to inspect bearings, top end, rebuild the shock, (or have my buddy Jason do it, old buddy, old pal) rebuild the shim stack, etc. but don't expect much trouble there. This bike will be a KDX on steroids; not the everyday rider but for those times when I'm feeling froggy and wanna kick it up some. As a loaner bike, it will be hard to determine which bike gets loaned on a particular day. Rider skill will be needing to be considered too.
You should have a blast on that bike!
We need photo evidence Jerry. 
