KDXRIDER.NET

Julien D wrote:

Slick_Nick wrote:Hammering the crank don't you run the risk of taking it out of true?

Sure, if you go whaling on it I guess you could. Never had it happen. I stick a box end wrench that just barely fits in between the crank halves. I've also seen people use plastic shims. I've done it this way many times and never had a problem. Is it the best way? Probably not. It definitely works though, and I've seen mechanics way better than I will ever be do it the same way.

Indeed, should not be a problem if your doing it with 'proper' violance

Never used a crank puller in my life and never had any problems with the crank..

Thanks all!

I haven't been able to get the crank to move for me and I do think I used a fair amount of "violence" on it with my 3lb hammer and 2x4. Any other ideas?

BTW, here is a teaser pic!

Crank puller?

Heat the case (both sides) with a propane torch (just the area where the crank bearings are to where spit just starts to sizzle), then tap the crank end with a hammer. The kawasaki factory manual for the C model KDX even says to center it with a hammer if it's off to one side. Just make sure you keep the flame away from the seals! If that doesn't work, try a crank puller.

SS109 wrote: BTW, here is a teaser pic!

I love the living room in the back ground!

Thanks. I'll try heating it up but I'll use my heat gun instead of propane.

rbates9 wrote:I love the living room in the back ground!

Yeah, my wife just loves me sometimes!

Using my homemade crank installer, a heat gun, and a cheap electric impact wrench I got the crank pretty much centered, .030" vs. .028 gap on each side. The crank turns real smooth so I feel all is good since the manual doesn't specify what the side-to-side clearance should be. Now it is time to put the top end on! I already have checked ring gap, piston to cylinder clearance, all ports are chamfered, KIPS properly aligned, and cylinder head is installed an torqued to 18ft-lbs. I'm getting so close to having my bike done I can taste it!

Looking good!

I'm moving right along! Engine is all done and reinstalled in the frame. Starting to run cables and wiring. I thought I had checked for everything I needed before ordering my parts but I missed that I needed a new lower shock bearing so I'm waiting on that.

sound good man, can't wait to see the finished build!

Just finished rerouting my brake line to inside the fork leg since everyone says it will kill me. That's pretty funny considering I rode it for about a year that way and never had a problem. Anyways, a little coaxing on the caliper end banjo fitting, and relocating my homemade hose bracket on the fork guard, did the trick. Going to have to get new fork guards now as they are just fugly!

I got my RB carb mounted up with a new Motion Pro throttle cable. Also mounted my new MSR AOF clutch lever and Motion Pro Terminator cable. I really like the quality of these cables. They fit just like the factory cables and you can tell they are made well. Also put on a new set of Scott Double D grips.

Man, I'm starting to get my hopes up that I might actually be able to ride it by Sunday!

As usual, things have taken longer than expected. So many little things needed attention like sorting all the electrical stuff, fitting Maier plastics , and lots of cleaning. I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel though. All I have left is to clean, repack, and install the silencer, add fluids, and she will be ready to start!

Are ya gonna take a video of the crowning moment and post it on youtube?
Always exciting to fire up a motor after a major rebuild.
Can't wait to see it completed.
Cheers, Jeff

Yep, I plan to video it. I'll post up when I do along with some pics!

Can you fire it up for the first time in the living room? Please?

rbates9 wrote:Can you fire it up for the first time in the living room? Please?

If I thought my wife wouldn't kill I would but for now I would prefer that my nuts stay attached to my body!

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

I completed the bike yesterday but was so tired I decided to wait until today to attempt to start it so I could be alert in case any issues popped up. As the soon to be posted video will show, it took me about 8 kicks to start her. I didn't think about the idle speed screw not being in far enough to actually run the bike. I cracked the throttle a bit and she sprang to life in two kicks. Duh. After adjusting the idle speed screw she idled perfectly. It sounds crisp and the throttle response confirmed it. I'm running the jetting that Ron supplied (M152, PJ40, CEK - 3rd clip, 7/8 screw) but it still seems a bit rich to me right now but I'll see about that later.

Next up I started to adjust the Dyna Ring. I found out from before that I like adjusting it with the bike running. Anyways, it works much better now that I added the 6 tungsten carbide balls to it. It starts pulling hard almost immediately and feels like it locks up at much lower RPM's. It actually lifts the front end with ease were before it was impossible. I'm feeling very happy with how it works at the moment. Once I get a ride in I'll know for sure. BTW, I didn't install the EBC clutch springs as the place I bought them from sent me ones for a KX80/100 (anybody need a set cheap?). If I'm not happy with the Dyna after a ride I will try them then. Unfortunately, there is some bad attached to the Dyna. As a result of the preload needed on the clutch cable I have now broken my second clutch cover and it was in the very same spot! The mounting tab nearest the sight glass. I think the cover is fine with just the preload but when you pull the clutch lever to override the Dyna it is just too much on it. Instead of buying another one I am having a local guy weld it and beef the cover in that area. He said it will be ready tomorrow and all for $20!

That's it for now. I'll be going riding this weekend, hopefully, and I'll report back then.

EDIT: Vid moved to the next page!

Nice! Great job! But I think the KDXRIDER crowd deserves some up close pics.