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I had a buddy hot tank my jug and used a soft wire wheel to clean the kips parts I didn't replace.when I got the jug home used brake cleaner and some brushes to clean any leftover carbon.mine looks brand new and from the way I read on here if jetted and maintained properly they'll last years.I can't say I just got mine together.kips isn't too bad to set up and time I was dreading it and it turned out to be cake work.


Btw mines an 89 as well.

the subvalves on the e series like the shred whether they are kept clean or otherwise. It's a matter of having that hardened steel shaft turning those soft aluminum gears.

http://www.craig.copperleife.com/bikes/kdx/pvalve.htm

An inteesting take on the LH powervalve dilemma. It turns out that his fix didn't actually work, but interesting none the less.

I just picked up a 93 KDX200E-5 and am now a little worried about the KIPS system.

Has any more progress been made on this front? I have never worked on this so I don't have much input, but is there any lubrication used when these are installed? Something like Anti-Seize? I know some are good up to 2000 deg F. It can't be that hot in there. Also it may limit the carbon buildup.

Just thinking. Otherwise the brass ones seem like a good solution.

Thanks

the manual recommends moly grease when assembling. it would be interesting if there is something better on the market now.

This is what I found during a quick Google search. It looks like dry Moly Lube is good to about 650 deg F and the grease to about 375 deg F or so. When I have to tear down my 200 I am going to try the anti-seize. I use it all the time here at work and although it makes a mess if you are not careful it should stay in there and keep things loose.

Dry Moly Lube is a high solids, molybdenum disulfide coating that withstands high pressures. This product bonds to all clean surfaces that are not adversely affected by alcohol or aromatic hydrocarbons, such as toluene or xylene.
• NSF reg. no. 131583; H2 rated
• Penetrates pores of substrate and bonds to surface for long-lasting lubrication
• High-pressure, high-solids molybdenum disulfide coating
• Withstands pressures up to 50,000 psi
• Air dries in 5-10 minutes; cures in 2 hours at room temperature
• Maintains effectiveness under high temperatures (650°F constant and 750°F intermittent)


Anti-Seize Special is a superior grade assembly compound and high-pressure lubricant. This high quality aluminum, copper, and graphite based anti-seize formula has unique particle shapes suspended in a special carrier. It will protect metal parts under extreme heat, pressure, and contaminating conditions to 2000ºF (1095ºC).
Anti-Seize Special is designed with ultra-fine metallic and graphite particles enhancing a longer lasting protective film, resisting washout, burn-off, and corrosion. Exceeds MIL-A-907 specifications.

Say that three times fast.

ok then I'll try anti-seize.

E-series KDX n00b here.....

Gold Valves in Brazil, I think:

http://www.carvalhoracing.com.br/loja/i ... a=0&id=263

I'm wondering why somebody does not just reproduce the subvalves in steel?

With the available CNC technology it ought to be a piece of cake.

Are those the mythical stronger KIPS valves that I've heard tell of? Can anyone read/translate that page? Think it's possible to get a set sent stateside??

You can google the url and then hit "translate this page". It does not really tell you much though.

Hey what about anodizing?

TRANSLATION:

Game KDX 200 90/94 Valve-Custom 7 working days | Code: 000263


$ 280.00


Installment Credit (U.S. $)
Number of Servings Parcel Value Number of Servings Parcel Value
1X without interest 280.00 4X non-interest 70.00
2X without interest 140.00 5X without interest 56.00
3X without interest 93.33 6X without interest 46.67

Thanks for the translation!

Anyone care to translate the translation?

You know, my wife speaks some high school spanish, maybe I'll ask her to take a look. (I'll be suitably embarrassed if the language is actually Portugese...)

Yes, that's portugese- the official language of Brazil.

That's $175 US.

Has anyone actually ordered a set to see if they are legit?

Looks like they are cheaper the more you order.

I have a friend that owns a CNC capable machine shop. I had him price a part for me a few years ago. The price was high, but went down considerably when the quantity went up.

I bet he could make these out of steel fairly easily.

How much do they cost from a dealer?

cheap cycle has the subvalves for $36 each. The center valve and rod are already steel, and do not seem to have any problem.

juliend wrote:cheap cycle has the subvalves for $36 each. The center valve and rod are already steel, and do not seem to have any problem.

That's a damn good price on them. I might pick up a set or two just in case.