KDXRIDER.NET

Best $250 ever spent, EVER.

ahh. ok

hey i donated $10.00 but forgot to put my user name down.... is there any way to fix it?

Look to the left.... I got ya...

Wow, that is a rusty chain!

What a great deal

yeah i gave the chain a good oiling, probably put all new stuff on this winter. it was the kips, i took the little cover off the side and turned the 10mm nut and opened the valves and now it runs the opposite, nice topend and no bottom. my question now is i can tell its trying to move but it just acts gummed up. could it have screwed the anything up from being ridden like that?

I believe if you forced the kips open with the 10 mm nut, you probably broke the kips actuator (on the clutch side) if it wasn't already broken. In any event you need to get the clutch cover off and fish out ALL of the pieces and replace with a new actuator. Don't forget, the nut at the top of the shaft is left traded and you MUST support the shaft or you'll damage or break the actuator again.

Somebody else ought to confirm cuz I'm not 100 % sure; if you look at the part diagram it makes sense to me.

hmm, i can tell its trying to move its probably been ridden along time with it stuck shut. ill pull the cover and see what it looks like.

It is probably alright. Mine was like that when I got it..... took awhile to get it working decently.... It finally took me tearing the topend down and cleaning the entire assembly.

Hey man wanna double yer money? I'll give you five bills for it.

lol.... nope!
can you clean it with the topend still together? just by pulling the covers?

Not properly... no.

damn, it seems to have alot of compression, i hate to tear it apart before i need to.

Not a big deal... really. You don't have to pull the jug.... just the head.

It's a good idea anyway. A $250 97 that's been sitting for years, probably would be helpful to know what that cylinder and piston look like, just in case!

I believe you do have to pull the cylinder to clean up all the KIPS parts. As I recall you cannot get the RH subport shaft out because it runs into the frame.

Maybe you don't have to do that, though, to clean it up well enough.

If it were me, I'd ride it for a while as is and hope it frees up after a while. It likely won't, but you won't hurt anything.

The easiest way to check motion is through that round slotted cover on the LH side. That won't tell you if the three vaves are reallly moving as they should, but if you can see that the shaft is NOT rotating fully through its travel you can be sure they are not. You won't hurt anything exercising the mechanism by turning that nut if you are gentle about it. It ought to move silky smooth, with the only real resistance transmitted from the advance mechanism down in the water pump side of the transmission.

I've done more damage to stuff taking it apart prematurely than I'd like to admitt. I am an Engineer; it's surprising my bike runs at all.

lol, thanks for the info. i noticed tonight that it seems to move a little more freely. maybe i just need to ride it and more. i see alot of people running amsoil or klotz. i always ran klotz 10 yrs ago is the amsoil any better and what ratio should i run? i mixed 2 gal @32:1 to get it going just to ride around the house.

Amsoil Interceptor is damn fine oil and made to keep power valves clean. Most run 40:1....

quick question? i pulled the cover off the pipe side of the motor and there is a line on one shaft and a dot on the other. i would assume they are supposed to be lined up? mine was one off but it seemed to me like it was off in the dirrection that it wouldt hurt the action but maybe not. also when i had the rod disconnected i was rolling the kips with 2 fingers how much drag do they usually have? got some amsoil today so maybe tomarrow i can ride it.

Nice find........ and I thought I got a pretty killer deal when I found mine 3 weeks ago.