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Brian wrote:If you change to the late 90's Honda CR style clutch perch and lever (I use a 99) you won't have issues with a dragging clutch. I do that on all my green bikes.

Please explain, not sure I understand.

Any wet clutch in any dirt bike will not completely release when the engine is not running. Try it at your local dealer sometime with a fresh on the showroom floor bike. That's just how it is. I don't care what perch you use, it doesn't change the design of a wet clutch.

Can you not roll yours in gear?

Motocross Action Magazine had an aritcle about ten years ago (when my KX 250 and KDX was new) that said to change your Kawasaki clutch perch and lever to the '99 CR 250 style perch and lever because it works better on the green bikes.

I change all my green bikes to the CR style perch and lever. I have had several occasions to compare the feel and drag of the stock Kawasaki clutch to mine (side by side) and mine has a slightly broader engagement range and less drag when the engine is not running and the bike is in gear.

Try it fellas, I'm pretty sure you'll agree.

Brian wrote:If you change to the late 90's Honda CR style clutch perch and lever (I use a 99) you won't have issues with a dragging clutch. I do that on all my green bikes.

I thought that was just for a lighter pull on the clutch.

Nah...my bike will not roll in gear with the clutch in... However...I dont know if that is a prob or not... Sum beeotch is funner than "heck" to ride...thats all I know! Im glad this site was here...it was stories and testimonys by you guys that convinced me to get it.

SO much different than the DRZ...and I figured it would be... but didn't realize it would be this much funner... DRZ is a great bike and has its place for sure... but not what I need right now...

THanks again...

E

Mine will roll

You must be special....

Your's won't either?

It will but not easily.... it will skid on concrete sometimes....

I'm just glad my bike isn't a freak!!

Where is there a diagram of the carb that tells me what all the stuff looks like that i have to mess with!!! (owners manual??) I'll go look.

If you got an owners manual with it then it won't tell you anything useful. You need a service manual.... or online service manual.

I've also read over the years of people bead blasting their clutch steels and it makes since. I want to try this the next time my clutch is apart. Read a lot about this on drag bikes and it may apply here (and those who are in the know will do this on all their bikes). Point is to rough up the steels to stop the capillary action to get nice smooth consistent engagement. May apply here too.

Geez, the KDX's I've ridden have some of the easiest clutch pulls out there (ever ride an XR600?), with the possible exception of the Euro hydraulic deals. Yes they drag a little, but so does every dirt bike I've ever ridden.

If you have trouble finding neutral, just blip the throttle and lightly lift the shifter into neutral just as the rpm's start to go down. I've been trying to teach the squirrel to do this on her KLX and previous bikes with no luck. It just becomes a habit.

Clutch pull is very light...no doubt...and finding neutral is a piece of cake...matter fact..if I come to a stop I just tap her up (if Im in 1st) and she is IN... there is no, "hmm..wonder if she's in 2nd"... The DRZ I was riding a few weeks ago was "almost" impossible to get into neutral when she was running...

I also like to slide my levers inboard as much as I can. Usually to the bend in the bars. That way my fingers (I only use the index finger on either hand) are farther toward the end of the lever where the most leverage is.

I use a cable luber and lube my clutch cable a couple times a year. Between all that and using the CR style clutch perch I have a very easy clutch that doesn't drag.

roadkillrobert wrote:Is the bolt really bent that mounts to the top triple clamp - those are nearly impossible to bend, but they are rubber mounted, so it is pretty easy to twist them in the rubber mounts, just loosening the handlebars from the clamps will let them twist back into place and straighten them out! If it really is bent, that takes talent!

I agree that they are near imposible to bend, but i bent one of mine so it is possible. I assumed you had physicaly checked that it was bent. If it is bent, when you loosen the nut the bars will straighten them selves out but will be crooked again when you tighten it back up. Thats what mine would do.

No more than the bike 'seems' to be ridden, I doubt the dampers are messed up but new ones wouldnt hurt, pn: 92160 OEM, BikeBandit pn: 636175-001. They're only 2.98 each. You'll need 4 if you decide to go that route. (I say fresh is always best). Pro Taper make good rubber mounted clamps, 7/8" and 1-1/8", $35 er so, what say those OEM clamps are bent.

A little beatin and bangin and you'll be in business.
Personally, I love a good fixxerupper.

Mr. Wibbens wrote:Your's won't either?

Mine wont either, as a matter of fact, I've never had a two-stroke that did.
The few four bangers I owned would roll tho...

On the stand, I can put mine in gear, pull the clutch and turn the tire by hand, not easily, but I can turn it