KDXRIDER.NET

Mine should be coming back in a week-ish. Along with the modded carb and head.

Tearing into the KDX made me appreciate the simplicity of 2-strokes. Took me hours to prepare my Suzuki Bandit for a valve adjustment. Took minutes to remove the carb and head from the KDX - maybe 20 minutes including the motor mounts and left radiator.

I went with Ron cause I was already sending stuff AND I know it'll be done right - right down to the spacer. I know any machinist could press the old stems out. I'd worry a little more about the positioning for the KDX stem going in (depth) and even moreso about the spacer.

Got my triple back from RB today. Man, he is fast! Dealing with him has exceeded my expectations in every way. Ron, you freakin' rock!

Now, time to start putting it back together!

Well, crap! I started mounting the forks this evening and everything was going good until I started to route the brake line. It appears my KDX caliper bracket will not work with the '96 forks. I was so hoping to go for a ride tomorrow but I guess not. Time to track down more parts.

Side note: RB's spacer worked perfectly as expected! One question though... the top nut doesn't thread all the way onto the stem. It looks to be about 2/3's the way on. Is this how it is on other conversions?

I have an 89 with 1999 KX forks. In my case Ron had to modify the stem nut so it would tighten correctly and allow for a full nut on the top clamp.

He basically relieved some of the bottom threads on the stem nut so it would screw down lower.

He does do a great job.

RB, I can't reply to PM's as I don't have that privilege just yet so I hope you see this. (Hey Inda, check your Paypal!)

Anyways, yes, the spanner nut was installed with the step-down part towards the bearing. Also, the spanner nut is threaded completely from top to bottom. I'll be sending it to you tomorrow. Thanks again RB!

SS109,

Yes that is the aluminum nut and it does need to be modified too. It needs the threads removed about 3 mm or 1/8" up from the bottom. If you send it to me, I can machine it for you.

Ron

RBD wrote:If you send it to me, I can machine it for you.

It is already on its way!

Hehe, I have an avatar now!

Update...

My new caliper arrived today. Got one from an '01 KDX220. Caliper, bracket, bolts, and good pads for $50. Also, Ron has the nut and it should be back shortly.

Once again, I can't say enough about how great it is to deal with someone like Ron Black. The man exceeds in customer service and has earned himself a lifelong customer. (Be prepared Ron, I have a crank and head coming your way before too long!)

Final chapter...I hope!

Got it to the "testing" phase today. Forks mounted, double checked all bolts, bled front brake, etc. So, took it for a quick spin around the neighborhood to feel it out.

Everything feels solid except the front brake as it is just not grabbing like it should. I'm going to give the pads a few days to wear to the rotor before doing anything else with it.

The forks feel pretty stiff. I think the .41's are going to be just a little too much for my weight. The steering felt "different" if that makes any sense. It was kind of unnerving as it feels so different from the way my bike turned with the old forks. BTW, I have them moved up in the clamps to the second line (1/4" increments?) on the tubes. I can easily go another 1/4" before getting close to the bars. I also have the comp/rebound settings set at their mid way points. Is this just something I have to learn to live with, should I lower/raise the forks, or ???

I guess I'll know more once I get it out on the trail. I still have a few things to finish up (headlight and lower brake hose guide) before that can happen though.

Your bike should be level. If it looks to be pulling a wheelie... raise the forks in the clamps.

Mine practically touch the handlebars.

Back your clickers out all the way for starters.... Top and bottom.


What did you torque your clamps too? You could be getting some stiction.

It looks to be sitting pretty level as far as I can tell. I'll take a closer look here when the sun comes up. Is there a front to rear measurement I can do to make sure?

Clamps are torqued down to 10ft/lbs.

OK, it is finally done. Well, as done as it is going to get for a while! Now don't make fun of my old KDX. It was only a $550 bike!

How does the ride height look to you guys? BTW, it is not resting on the kickstand. The little TTR behind it is holding it up for the pic.



My homemade bracket to mount the original KDX hose bracket.



I kept the stock headlight on as my bike is street registered and it is a requirement. First pic you can see where I modified the original upper mounting bracket to work with the KX forks. A minute with a hacksaw and it was ready! Second pic shows what I have done to mount the lower until I come up with a better way. It is crooked in the pic but I have since adjusted it straight.

My setup is similar to yours. 1989 KDX. 1999 Forks. I ended up with the forks raised .4". When I initially test drove mine the forks were extremely stiff. The would only compress an inch or two over the worst bumps. Come to find out the previous owner had measured the fork oil level with forks extended not compressed. After changing the fork oil and removing all but 3 or the largest shims in the base valve, it works very well. The steering feels the same as stock with the exception the forks do not deflect off objects anymore.

Well, I guess they might not be too stiff after all. What do you guys think?

I went for a little 1.5 hour test ride this morning to try and get a feel for them. I rode some very rough up-n-down fire roads and did a few small jumps. I notice the dust marks on the forks and I can tell that I was mostly using all but about 4" of travel and even a dust line with only about 2" left. Does that sound about normal?

Yeah... sounds about right....

OK, I have a few hours of single track, fire roads, and small jumps on them to make some conclusions.

I love how they soak up the really hard hits that normally would rattle my teeth. They track better than the stockers. Where I point the bike is where it goes and I really like that.

OK, there is only one real negative. They are definately on the harsh side. All the little stuff gets tranfered right to the bars and into me. I really miss how the stockers soaked up the little stuff. Is there a shim stack mod or something I can do to to help with this harshness?

In conclusion, I really like them and, even with the harshness, I am very happy I did it.

Yes... yes there is. That's what tuners do. You can mess with them yourself like most of us do. I removed 4 of the largest shims on each valve. Much betta!