Posted: 08:27 pm Apr 19 2009
Older post but I got to comment.
No expert here but I've had around 15 sets of KYB forks apart and have never seen the "maltese cross" check valve: I'm 100% sure that will not be very effective once the cross slightly rotates off the port holes and 99+% sure that is no KYB OEM check valve. There would have to be something that would keep it oriented and inline with the proper holes in the base valve.
NOTE - Delta valves are only used in clamped valving for that reason although I'm aware that people have built 'pinned delta valve shims' (daisy pedals) in an attempt to modify some valving White Power forks.
CC - Your check plate valve isn't going to be very effective IMO once it slightly rotates out of position. IW's checkplate and valve stack is the typical KYB arrangement. Likely the same person who flipped the spring cup LOL
(I did mention one time that I found the same flipped spring cup on a set of forks correct?)
IW - If your high speed compression setting is still too firm and you could still use a softening on the low speed side removing the first high speed shim beyond the crossover shim would be my next step. This should soften the whole high/low speed gambit.
You soon do hit a point though where you cannot just keep removing BV shims to soften compression valving. When your down to a certain thickness the shims have no room to deflect and the valving can not flow enough oil. 1) One of the easy things that is quite effective is to double or triple the thickness of your 'clamping shim' - this gives room for the shims to flex and allows higher flow rates of oil. 2) Changing the steepness of the taper in the shim stack is another way to soften the valving while keeping the same number of shims 3) Increasing the thickness of the crossover shim will soften the low speed compression and bring in the high speed compression valving later (relative to the dynamic speed of the fork's action) 4) Going with thinner shims is also an excellent way to tailor your fork's reaction. But this can be costly since your buying lots of shims and making trial and error changes and it seems like most people on this forum are concerned with maximum results with minimal dollars. That is why I guess I brought up method 1 and 3 since you only need to buy four new shims to have a pretty major effect on your valving and you do not have to mess with any mid-valve issues.
As with all changes to valving be very careful when first checking out the fork action afterward - It is easy to think you have it figured out when you start pulling and installing shims only to totally screw up something like the high speed flow rate and causing the forks hydraulic lock when crossing a 3 inch obstacle at speed.
I only mention the above items or methods to clue some riders who may think only about shuffling around or removing shims as the solutions to their fork issues.
No expert here but I've had around 15 sets of KYB forks apart and have never seen the "maltese cross" check valve: I'm 100% sure that will not be very effective once the cross slightly rotates off the port holes and 99+% sure that is no KYB OEM check valve. There would have to be something that would keep it oriented and inline with the proper holes in the base valve.
NOTE - Delta valves are only used in clamped valving for that reason although I'm aware that people have built 'pinned delta valve shims' (daisy pedals) in an attempt to modify some valving White Power forks.
CC - Your check plate valve isn't going to be very effective IMO once it slightly rotates out of position. IW's checkplate and valve stack is the typical KYB arrangement. Likely the same person who flipped the spring cup LOL
(I did mention one time that I found the same flipped spring cup on a set of forks correct?)IW - If your high speed compression setting is still too firm and you could still use a softening on the low speed side removing the first high speed shim beyond the crossover shim would be my next step. This should soften the whole high/low speed gambit.
You soon do hit a point though where you cannot just keep removing BV shims to soften compression valving. When your down to a certain thickness the shims have no room to deflect and the valving can not flow enough oil. 1) One of the easy things that is quite effective is to double or triple the thickness of your 'clamping shim' - this gives room for the shims to flex and allows higher flow rates of oil. 2) Changing the steepness of the taper in the shim stack is another way to soften the valving while keeping the same number of shims 3) Increasing the thickness of the crossover shim will soften the low speed compression and bring in the high speed compression valving later (relative to the dynamic speed of the fork's action) 4) Going with thinner shims is also an excellent way to tailor your fork's reaction. But this can be costly since your buying lots of shims and making trial and error changes and it seems like most people on this forum are concerned with maximum results with minimal dollars. That is why I guess I brought up method 1 and 3 since you only need to buy four new shims to have a pretty major effect on your valving and you do not have to mess with any mid-valve issues.
As with all changes to valving be very careful when first checking out the fork action afterward - It is easy to think you have it figured out when you start pulling and installing shims only to totally screw up something like the high speed flow rate and causing the forks hydraulic lock when crossing a 3 inch obstacle at speed.
I only mention the above items or methods to clue some riders who may think only about shuffling around or removing shims as the solutions to their fork issues.
It's not all shuffing and removing!!??
