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more thoughts?

Try posting pictures...closeup ....video of the movement would be even better. Have you checked to make absolutely sure that they sent you the correct lever in the first place? Wouldn't be the first time someone mislabeled a part or just grabbed one from the wrong bin.

thanks.

i am waiting for the wife the get off the iphone so i can take pics/video.

i see a gap of around 1-2mm between the meat of the clasping 2sufaces (that hugs the shaft spline).

THe bolt is as tight as anything so cannot be done up tighter.

THe shaft does nto move when this freepaly of around 5mm is observed.

I have confirmed thhat this is the correct part number.

Byte

Nothing to see here...move along.

Re: 'i see a gap of around 1-2mm between the meat of the clasping 2sufaces (that hugs the shaft spline).'


You are referring to the gap between the shift lever bosses at the bolt? Like a captial 'C', sorta..the 'C' being the shift lever end, the 'clasping 2 surfaces' being what makes a 'C' not an 'O'?


Re: 'THe shaft does nto move when this freepaly of around 5mm is observed.'


I don't believe that without further proof of it.

Get yourself a permanent marker..a Sharpie (not something that will leave a 5mm wide mark). Draw a diameter across the shift lever/shift shaft. Move the shift lever up and down while watching that mark.

What do you see?

Sounds like the bolt has run out of thread.

Who knows what kind'a bolt is in the thing..and indeed the shoulder may well be causing the problem.

Heh heh...you're kind'a hot on the 'running out of threads' scenario. Wasn't that posited on a rear axle that was moving?

Maybe we'll actually get the straight skinny from Mr. Oz on this one.


So, Byte...you have some questions to answer.........

Let's add a little graphic since we men are "visual" creatures.



If I read you correctly, when mounted and the bolt is tightened as far as possible, there is still 1-2mm gap between the outside of the splined shaft and the splined receiver on the shift lever (Denoted as item 1) Also, the gap (Denoted as item 2) is completely closed with both sides touching? Furthermore, when the lever is wiggled up and down, you are seeing ~5mm of play yet the shaft is not moving at all?

If this is the case, there are 1 of 2 possibilities.

Either:

A: The splines on the shaft are severely worn or
B: The part number, packaging, order form, etc all point to the correct shift lever, but somehow, you have still been given the wrong or just a faulty part. (Could be a manufacturer issue)

If the splines are still tall enough to provide a decent bite then as others have mentioned, take a flat file or other suitable device and remove material from inside edges of the gap (Denoted as item 2) far enough that when the bolt is tightened the shift lever will be firmly attached to the shift shaft with no free play.

Yeah, it was on the rear axle moving. Wasn't me who pointed it out, though. I think it was Kawagumby. I kinda thought the OP was imagining things........

My lever comes loose also,its a moose aftermarket one.Same here the teeth on the shift shaft looks fine,Im going to try oem.

good morning boys (or good evening) :-)

THanks for input.

DirtbikeDad's picture is a good one.

The gap highlighted at '2' is where the 1-2mm gap exists..

What I call free play is this - the lever is moved to lowest point in movement and then raised until any resistance is felt.

How to tell if shaft splines are worn?

Photos to follow shortly.

Byte

1. 'The gap highlighted at '2' is where the 1-2mm gap exists..'

There should be a gap there. Consider if there was not. If there is NO gap there, there is NO amount of tightening that is going to result in any better squeeze. You'd be all squeezed out.


2. 'What I call free play is this - the lever is moved to lowest point in movement and then raised until any resistance is felt.'

Huh? That doesn't fit (to me) anything that's been brought up.

Back up.

You said, 'THe shaft does nto move when this freepaly of around 5mm is observed.'

THAT is what I want you to check again.

How?

Get yourself a permanent marker..a Sharpie (not something that will leave a 5mm wide mark). Draw a diameter across the shift lever/shift shaft. Move the shift lever up and down while watching that mark.

Please do that.


Whether 'the lowest point in movement' or 'resistance is felt', 'how to tell if shaft splines worn'....I don't care. Make the mark, move the lever. Say what you see happens to the mark. No...I'm not saying what should or shouldn't happen. I want you to explain it.

Just this one thing. No more questions about howcome your fender is crooked or what kind of glue to use on your grips.

Just.......this......one.......thing.

Thanks Canyncrv -

here is some clairification...

I too the bike out into sunlight and observed no free play betwen the lever and the shaft - sorry for misleading everyone here.

But, I guess that freeplay i was referring to was the amount of slack to take up before a gear was selected. Maybe this is normal...? THoughts on this one?

Here are some lovely pics...







Maybe I am pissing up a tree here but just want to make sure of this slack/free play I observe...

Byte

..and still it didn't happen.

While you may well be pissing up a tree..one thing you certainly have not done is..

Get yourself a permanent marker..a Sharpie (not something that will leave a 5mm wide mark). Draw a diameter across the shift lever/shift shaft. Move the shift lever up and down while watching that mark.


We've gone down a long primrose path on this..all started from the stated 'fact' that started MARCH 20! Now..after merely looking at it in the light (another old thread/question had to do with maybe using some LIGHT, 'eh?) you proclaim it does not move.

There isn't any particular reason I can come up with to give the MARCH 20 'fact' ('it's loose!!') any more or less credence than todays '..observed no free play'.


The lever can be loose..and you CAN'T SEE IT just wiggling it around. It can be tight and LOOK loose...just wiggling it around.

THAT is the point of marking it..observing that mark during movement..and WATCHING FOR A SHIFT OF THE MARK AT THE LEVER/SHAFT JOINT!



sheeesh...... Where's dinner.............

Thansk Canyncrv.

I performed the sharpie exercise and do not see any line break between shaft and lever.

I observe the shaft moves when the lever moves.

Can anyone advise me if they observe slight movement of lever(and shaft at same time) before a gear is selected?

Byte

I have a query relating to this photo.

This setup came with the bike I purchased 1 year ago.

What is this spring and why is it used?

What is the spring connected to?

Did the previous user improvise on something?





Byte

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Byte wrote:I have a query relating to this photo.

This setup came with the bike I purchased 1 year ago.

What is this spring and why is it used?

What is the spring connected to?

Did the previous user improvise on something?





Byte

What does your manual say about that?

>|QBB<[/url]

Byte wrote:I have a query relating to this photo.

This setup came with the bike I purchased 1 year ago.

What is this spring and why is it used?

What is the spring connected to?

Did the previous user improvise on something?





Byte

Part of a brake light switch system?

Byte wrote:Thansk Canyncrv.

I performed the sharpie exercise and do not see any line break between shaft and lever.

I observe the shaft moves when the lever moves.

Can anyone advise me if they observe slight movement of lever(and shaft at same time) before a gear is selected?

Byte

Obviously the shaft HAS to be moved to select a gear. It's not a digital button that you can touch to shift, it has to be moved up or down to select the proper gear. if you can grab the shaft with the lever removed and it has play up and down or side to side then the collar that goes around that shaft is probably worn a bit. If not then it is probably fine and working as it should.

And yes, that looks like someone's home brewed version of a brake light
switch.

Random piece of advise: It's always nicer to work on a clean bike. Take some soap and a hose to that thing before you start wrenching!

THansk boys.

Juliend - YEs, I acutally removed the lever for 'kicks' (pardon the pun) and checked for play on the shaft - she's tight as a virgin

Re: brake light switch (homebrewed version) - what have other's done to achieve the same effect but neater and more solid onf the kdx?

I guess the previous owner needed this mod to achieve registration perhaps?

Byte