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I don't know what he was talking about..which is why I asked him what he was talking about.

This is not pre-mix oil, it's gearbox oil. That is what I asked him about. It's 2-stroke oil. That's what the people that make it call it anyway. Look at 'gearbox'.

This IS pre-mix oil. Anyway, you add it to 'petrol'. You find that in snowmobile lubricants...and it is 100% synthetic (NOT what he asked about).

Neither of the above links go to the actual product, but to its parent page.

And, they (Ipone) list 'additives' to petrol that are NOT lubricants.

In any case, he didn't say. The subject was gear box oil.


Maybe I guessed wrong.

...which was (what was that again?) why I asked!

The subject was gear box oil



But it looked to me like he's asking aboot 2cycle oil

Not 2cycle specific gear box oil

But I could be wrong

Thats WHY I brought it up


Besides that I like messing with your head

Besides that I like messing with your head

So it is becoming increasingly apparent of late.

So...we await the Newfounder's say.

..whatever it is, I still never heard of it. It's not like we're all going to rush out and buy a case of whatever it is when we find OUT what it is.

Well...not me, anyway. I'll just wait for Interceptor to get off its $40 high. Good grief...that's more than a whole barrel of OIL!!

canyncarvr wrote:
..whatever it is, I still never heard of it. It's not like we're all going to rush out and buy a case of whatever it is when we find OUT what it is.

looks to be popular with the snowmobile crowd, and its strawberry scenter

I missed that! Dang...'flavors' are generally around $10 a bottle!!! I'd use it all the time if it wasn't so spendy!

I'm going to rush out and buy a case of whatever it is...right now!!!

I was satisfied with the response for gearcase oil. I should have started a new discussion instead of just popping that question in there, sorry for the confusion. I am new here you know.

So....you were NOT referring to thier 2-cycle Box2 Synthesis gearbox oil?

You WERE talking about Ipones FULLY synthetic 2-cycle 'add to petrol' oil?


Not to worry as long as the question hopefully gets some kind'a answer....and you call the wookie off my a$$.

I don't suppose you are of a background having anything to do with French? Ha! We've had some go-rounds with those Kanucks (generally KayBeckers). Don't know WHAT they're sayin' 1/2 the time!

Them and the down-under crowd..they can be enough to make one chuck a spaz, that's dead cert!

Nope, no french in me, have never been there, quebec that is....And am not planning on going there! Although some people say the Newfoundland accent is harder to understand than French. I was referring to the Ipone mx oil (SAMOURAI RACING) 2-cycle. But I see now you don't, or have never used it. I think its European but for some reason its popular around our little island. A little costly though.

RE: 'Nope, no french in me, have never been there, quebec that is..'

Then there is nothing you need worry about having to be forgiven for!!

Down here...Amsoil Interceptor has doubled in price over the past few months..now up to about $40 a gallon. That's pretty darn spendy. Well, any oil is spendy, I guess.

Re: 'do you like Ipone semi synthetic 2-cycle oil?'


It is a full/syn oil...not semi. From the Ipone website:

Samourai Racing
100% synthetic
Lubricant specially formulated for two-stroke Trial/Enduro/Motocross and race competition engines.

Ipone's two stroke premix oil is great stuff, I have run all my two strokes on it for years.

I use 1% mix for my trials bikes and 2% in the KDX and quads etc. I have had no problems what so ever using it. As I said I think it is good stuff - particularly the strawberry smelling version!! I think it smells kind of nice but I guess it depends on whether or not you like fruit or consider it not to be cool to have your dirt smelling of strawberry's!

canyncarvr wrote: For a 2-stroke bike oil to come out anything other than fairly clean, it's had to have been in use for way too long a time.

I change my oil after every 2-3 rides and it comes out kind of silver looking. I thought I had some sort of problem but I read on a forum (don't remember which one) that it was normal and was due to the aluminum clutch plates.

..if you have aluminum clutch plates. Those aren't generally the choice of anyone that HAS a choice of plates. That's only something I've read..don't know firsthand.

I know I don't want aluminum clutch plates in my bike.

g-6:
What's Ipone cost in lbs?

I just assume I have aluminum plates since my oil looks that way. I sure didn't put them in. Other than increased wear, why do you not want aluminum plates?

Because they are aluminum, primarily.

Aluminum plates tend to warp and break more easily than steel, especially if you are hard on clutches. I had an aluminum plate break in a '78 RM400 - But...I've had many bikes since then that also had aluminum plates and never had a problem at all.

smuggler wrote:gearcase oil.

Occurred to me to actually look this up..just remembered at the right time today:

From an ad for EBC parts:

EBC Dirt Racer COMPLETE Clutch Kit for a Kawasaki KDX200. Will fit years 1995-2006!

PART#: DRC62

This is a Complete Kit. Heavy duty springs, Steel plates, and Heavy duty fiber plates!

Re: 'Because they are aluminum, primarily.'


Didn't mean that to be snotty. The answer to the question seemed self-evident enough to me that I didn't really understand what needed to be explained.

As noted, they '..tend to warp and break more easily than steel..'. I don't know why anyone would want to put aluminum in a position where it's going to be rubbed, abraded, and generally abused...not to mention the other piece (friction plate) that's going to be doing the rubbing, abrading and abusing. Yes..aluminum is used in some strange places (seems to me) like automotive flywheels 'fer instance. At least those are faced to be hard(er), as clutch plates may well be, and there is a point to using them weight-wise in small block race applications. (I preferred steel and heavy myself..but whatever floats yur boat.)

I don't recall the last time I saw aluminum used in a gear box...as a gear I mean. It's simply not suitable. Neither is it suitable in a clutch application.

It probably does come down to a matter of personal choice.

Aluminum is lighter and transfers heat more quickly...the alloys used today are durable by most standards - I think if I had a choice though, I'd go for steel for off-road use - as I don't tend to change the oil every ride like some mx'r would. Like you said, a matter of personal choice.

EBC Motorcycle Clutch Kits (Engine Sets)

Standard CK Series both Street and Dirt
Almost identical to original equipment clutch plates the CK series are a cork based product impregnated with aluminum particles to increase wear life and heat resistance. Material is highly compressed to avoid swell and clutch drag and is an ideal general purpose replacement material for all grades and sizes of motorcycle. Kit includes a complete “engine set” of friction plates only.


Dirtracer Clutch Sets


EBC Dirt Racer clutch sets with steel separator plates and heavy duty springs
EBC DIRT RACER clutch sets are a complete set of CK series heavy duty cork based lined plates plus heavy duty clutch springs and steel separator plates. Many off road machines are fitted from new with alloy separator plates which wear out quickly and cause clutch to slip. The steel units in the EBC DRC kit prevent this and re-establish original clutch stack height.



IMPORTANT NOTE: WE DO NOT RECOMMEND THE USE OF FULLY SYNTHETIC OILS WITH THESE CLUTCH KITS

Besides all the suggestions already given, one other thing can cause a clutch to drag: clutch plates/discs that are not flat. While you have the clutch apart to inspect the basket, take a look at the steel and the fiber disks.