Posted: 09:00 pm Mar 14 2009
I'm going out on a limb I guess - I know there are shops that screw people but there are also those that are worthy of your trust. I worked in a shop in the early 70s, that to the best of my knowledge, never screwed anyone over in the bike repair area. (Worked there for about 2 years but was associated with the shop for about 12 years)
I've found a repair shop in my area where I buy 90% of my bike and snowmachine parts and occasionally have them perform some work for me. i.e. rebuild shocks and rebuild lower ends (sleds and bikes).
Been dealing with them for about 15 years without one compliant on my end during our owner/customer relationship. I've referred many friends and have not ever heard a compliant related to the owners mechanical ability. It a mom and pop type shop. Owner was originally trained through an apprentiship program (Yamaha dealership) and after working for about 10 years and then ventured out on his own. He repairs all brands of motorsports equipment associated with PWCs, snowmachines, dirt bikes, street bikes, and ATVs.
I believe the variety of the work keeps his interest and skills up to par along with his sincere desire to have satisfied customers.
Bottom Line - Do NOT distrust ALL shops - search out the shops in your area using recommendations from people in your area!! Especially if you want work performed and don't have the time and are willing to spend the bucks.
Second Note - concerning Skipro's recommendation. A lot of shops will not accept motors that are torn down below a certain point. i.e. Removing the motor from the bike is fine: Removing the carburetor, kick start/gear levers, exhaust pipe and reed block is fine:
Rotor and stator removal along with cylinder, head, and piston removal will be fine with many shops, but some shops will limit their warranty of the repair work. Reason being - a failure in the lower end after they have completed their could easily be YOUR fault. e.g. tapping the rotor on with a hammer or using an impact wrench on the rotor nut: letting dirt or debris into the crank area during reassembly, or leaving an air leak somewhere due to poor seal, etc. Things like losing circlips into the engine are immediately apparent but questions on whether or not you pounded on the wrist pin to get it through the piston are less obvious.
NOTE - I do remove the cylinder, head, and piston from the engine block prior to having a dirt bike crank rebuilt. Sled engines are just the cases, stator/rotor, and crank
I would not expect the shops I have dealt with to accept or stand basket cases - which I believe is the area your getting into when you start removing side covers and internals contained within. The time it takes a mechanic to remove the side cover, kick starter gear, clutch, main gear and water pump/power valve mechanism is minimal. Maybe 10-15 minutes. He'll likely have the engine buttoned up with a new seal installed within 1 to 1 1/2 hours maybe 2 hours if he needs to install new main bearings on the crank. (If your looking to minimize time and therefor dollars on your end make sure the engine cases are extremely clean when you hand off your engine to the mechanic. If not - if he is methodical (good) you will have significant time in cleaning your parts - $$$.
IMHO - researching to find a reputable shop in your area and presenting them with a VERY CLEAN stripped intact lower engine case assembly is time well spent.
I've found a repair shop in my area where I buy 90% of my bike and snowmachine parts and occasionally have them perform some work for me. i.e. rebuild shocks and rebuild lower ends (sleds and bikes).
Been dealing with them for about 15 years without one compliant on my end during our owner/customer relationship. I've referred many friends and have not ever heard a compliant related to the owners mechanical ability. It a mom and pop type shop. Owner was originally trained through an apprentiship program (Yamaha dealership) and after working for about 10 years and then ventured out on his own. He repairs all brands of motorsports equipment associated with PWCs, snowmachines, dirt bikes, street bikes, and ATVs.
I believe the variety of the work keeps his interest and skills up to par along with his sincere desire to have satisfied customers.
Bottom Line - Do NOT distrust ALL shops - search out the shops in your area using recommendations from people in your area!! Especially if you want work performed and don't have the time and are willing to spend the bucks.
Second Note - concerning Skipro's recommendation. A lot of shops will not accept motors that are torn down below a certain point. i.e. Removing the motor from the bike is fine: Removing the carburetor, kick start/gear levers, exhaust pipe and reed block is fine:
Rotor and stator removal along with cylinder, head, and piston removal will be fine with many shops, but some shops will limit their warranty of the repair work. Reason being - a failure in the lower end after they have completed their could easily be YOUR fault. e.g. tapping the rotor on with a hammer or using an impact wrench on the rotor nut: letting dirt or debris into the crank area during reassembly, or leaving an air leak somewhere due to poor seal, etc. Things like losing circlips into the engine are immediately apparent but questions on whether or not you pounded on the wrist pin to get it through the piston are less obvious.
NOTE - I do remove the cylinder, head, and piston from the engine block prior to having a dirt bike crank rebuilt. Sled engines are just the cases, stator/rotor, and crank
I would not expect the shops I have dealt with to accept or stand basket cases - which I believe is the area your getting into when you start removing side covers and internals contained within. The time it takes a mechanic to remove the side cover, kick starter gear, clutch, main gear and water pump/power valve mechanism is minimal. Maybe 10-15 minutes. He'll likely have the engine buttoned up with a new seal installed within 1 to 1 1/2 hours maybe 2 hours if he needs to install new main bearings on the crank. (If your looking to minimize time and therefor dollars on your end make sure the engine cases are extremely clean when you hand off your engine to the mechanic. If not - if he is methodical (good) you will have significant time in cleaning your parts - $$$.
IMHO - researching to find a reputable shop in your area and presenting them with a VERY CLEAN stripped intact lower engine case assembly is time well spent.
They apparently did not support the shaft while disassembling the claw.
