But you know how your bike will throw you on your ass in a heartbeat, if you lock up the front brake on loose stuff like gravel?
If you keep the throttle on it won't do that, front end will just skid. Ive tried it with my Vstrom, works like a charm!
I saw this on a technique CD "Dirt Wise". They recommended practicing throttle + front brake skidding to help improve use of controls. I wondered why that would help; now from what you say here I can see why.
The front brake skid helps with total control of the bike and allows you to develop dragging the front brake wile under power. This helps in cornering faster,also also develops quicker counter steer skills.
2000 KDX220 FRP Ported,plated cylinder,milled head, FRP bored carb, V force 3 reeds, FMF desert pipe, 10oz FWW, 98 KX forks and oem shock re valved by Pro Action, hyd clutch, fastway pegs, tall seat foam, gripper cover, 29" CRhigh mini bars, Cycra brush gaurds.
I've learned how to "cover" both clutch and front brake levers with one finger at all times. I do it without thinking now. This lets me get on the front brake almost instinctively.
I can't imagine riding without using the front brake. I use it for everything except cornering (sliding the rear wheel), and based on other's comments, maybe I need to do that too. And yes, the front brake is definitely your friend on downhills. Like someone else said, the rear brake will just lock up the wheel and cause you to gain speed.
I'm trying to teach my kids the value of the front brake, but they aren't buying what I'm selling yet. They will...
practice doing stoppies helps you from going over the bars, but you better hope the guys behind you can stop as fast.
I blew a hidden turn just seeing it at the last second and stood the bike on the front wheel turning at the same time and knocking the seat down with my butt to put the rear wheel back on the ground with out thinking about it. the guy following me cleared a new path through the woods.
This is so inspirational I am taking the DVD plaver and go practice tomorrow.
2000 KDX220 FRP Ported,plated cylinder,milled head, FRP bored carb, V force 3 reeds, FMF desert pipe, 10oz FWW, 98 KX forks and oem shock re valved by Pro Action, hyd clutch, fastway pegs, tall seat foam, gripper cover, 29" CRhigh mini bars, Cycra brush gaurds.
But you know how your bike will throw you on your ass in a heartbeat, if you lock up the front brake on loose stuff like gravel?
If you keep the throttle on it won't do that, front end will just skid. Ive tried it with my Vstrom, works like a charm!
I saw this on a technique CD "Dirt Wise". They recommended practicing throttle + front brake skidding to help improve use of controls. I wondered why that would help; now from what you say here I can see why.
I've got this DVD and was just practicing the front brake skid last week. This vid is pretty good with tips and fundamentals. i'm playing with stopies now! The DVD has a lot of KTM and Cyclehutt propaganda.
60 front /40 rear - on the brakes unless i've got my right foot out.
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2008 KLX450R
2008 DRZ400SM
2005 KDX 220R
1985 KDX 200A3
2005 KLX 125L (SONS)
2003 KTM 50SX Pro Jr
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I use the front 90%, the other 10% of the time are if I want to brake slide in the turn or when I over shoot and I want to slow down or stop cuz a tree moved in the middle of the trail
I pretty much do the same on my street bike, the rear brake slows you down a bit but not nearly enough to stop you in time. If I were to use only the rear, I would stop most likely in the middle of intersection or in the rear bumper of cars
It also has sumthin to do with weight transfer, under front braking, the weight goes on the front making it mor efficient and harder to lock up. The rears becomes light and much easier to lock which is nice for brake slide but not to stop you
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb
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Definately with all the others on the front brake, with one thing to add;
This bike is my first in nearly twenty years. I was amazed the first time I braked, using the rear on a dry dirt road. It seemed to not be working at all, until I felt the rear getting all squirmy and realized it was locked. Alot of my trail to trail riding is on these dry gravelly windy roads, and the front applied in moderation is definitely a lifesaver.
Watch those MX guys take 180 degree turns from mach speed and ask yourself which brake is facilitating that.
wanaride wrote:I've learned how to "cover" both clutch and front brake levers with one finger at all times. I do it without thinking now. This lets me get on the front brake almost instinctively.
I can't imagine riding without using the front brake. I use it for everything except cornering (sliding the rear wheel), and based on other's comments, maybe I need to do that too. And yes, the front brake is definitely your friend on downhills. Like someone else said, the rear brake will just lock up the wheel and cause you to gain speed.
I'm trying to teach my kids the value of the front brake, but they aren't buying what I'm selling yet. They will...
I completely agree with all of this! It feels genuinely uncomfortable to not be coving the rear brake or clutch, being prepared and acting quickly is all the difference. These days I tend to ride hovering the rear brake too, but at the end of the day do what is comfortable and works. Youl find youl adapt from different styles and techniques as your riding progresses.
Dragging brakes (but not locking) and good clutch control makes the world of difference to energy used and stability of the bike.
I guess thats part of the beauty of 2smokes, always on the button!
