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Get some 2 x 4's at least.

I made one and it works well.

Just to clarify, when using a 0 to 1 micrometer you can only get the outside diameter of an object up to 1" with .0001 accuracy; however, a caliper can be used to get inside diameter, outside diameter, and depth of an object up to .001 accuracy. Common calipers measure up to six inches.

Yep. I have some cheap calipers to go with my cheap micrometer. OH! and my cheap dial gauge. :-) They are all Close Enough brand tools.

Get this.... 66.014! That's an "F" Oversize! std would neverr get it!

Off to the stealership!

What is the standard measurement for an H model cylinder? My E model manual shows 66.016mm - 66.031mm.

What is the standard measurement for cylinder to piston clearance on an H model? My E model manual shows .072mm - .092 mm. If you had an A piston, that would put you at .074 mm clearance (with E model values).

I don't have my H model manual with me, so I can't check H model values.

I AM CONFUSED

The letter designations on the cylinder (and piston crown) are to take into account size variances during manufacture. No...ART didn't tell me that. It's ancecdotal info from someone that should know.

When you order a 'piston' from a dealership..you cannot specify which marking you get. Usually it's a 'b'. From the chart Jason posted you see that 1/2 of one thousandth isn't a whole lot!

So, why worry? After all..you don't get different ring sizes to match!

Why? Because there is a right way to do things, and then there is every other way to do it...and they're all wrong!

It doesn't matter what your cylinder is stamped. What does matter is that the piston fits. And what it fits into is supposed to be relatively square from top to bottom.

[quote="canyncarvr"]Non impediti ratione cogitationis



Braccae tuae aperiuntur.

Unencumbered by the zIpper?

canyncarvr wrote:Unencumbered by the zIpper?

Tough translation! You are correct---in a manner of speaking?

Well... Parts Unlimited doesn't specify the sizing differences in their catalog. The guy had to call them. The difference being the stamped "B" designation on the cylinder puts it into a different category when ordering a piston for it. Unless a stealership specifies the designation on the cylinder... you get BAM! a standard piston. The right piston has been ordered and I will get it in 3 days. He apologized for the mistake but that would have been little consulation if I woulda built the bike with that piston and it started slapping and self destruct. Runout on my cylinder was only 10 microns... Cat said.... that's great! Proly better than when it was new.

Did you get your old one replated or the eBay one or what??

So what was the problem with the circlip? I just put a Wiseco in my 220 and haven't run it yet. Waiting on my carb I sent to RB.

No replating... plating is good on my eBay cylinder which I'm using. My old one is a good candidate for a EG225!

Better make sure the circlips are seated well and pointing at 12 'O clock... or else you may have a failure!

So... what did you have done?? I are confused.

I bought a piston for my cylinder that is too small. Not that I ordered it that way, the stealership did.

OK, but before that. Did you just take it there to be cleaned and order a piston for it?

While we're on the subject of top-ends, How do you guys torque the cylinder nuts? I bought a crows foot, but can't use it on 2 of the nuts, something gets in the way. The cylinder bulges out over the nuts so the torque wrench won't fit on a socket directly. Do you use a socket and a U-joint?

Thanks,

I have just guessed. The proper tool is available from Motion Pro. Let me find it, and I will post some info.

EDIT: This is it:

http://www.motionpro.com/Docs/convtools_2.html

Scroll down to Torque Wrench Adapter.