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Once I get an accurate gauge what should I get for a reading? If I end up getting a proper reading with the new gauge will that dismiss having to check the leak down? ThanksSS109 wrote: 01:57 pm Jul 12 2022 Stop riding it until you figure out what's going on. You could possibly be creating even more damage to the engine.
JZ05220r wrote: 10:18 pm Jul 12 2022Once I get an accurate compression tester what should I get for a reading? If I end up getting a proper reading with the new gauge will that dismiss having to check the leak down? ThanksSS109 wrote: 01:57 pm Jul 12 2022 Stop riding it until you figure out what's going on. You could possibly be creating even more damage to the engine.
So I bought a nice gauge from motion pro and it’s now reading 150 psi. What do you think I should try next to remedy the power loss? ThanksKDXGarage wrote: 07:12 am Jul 12 2022 Crazy question, but would it not be pretty easy to kick over at 90 psi? Did the "difficulty to kick it" change from then to now?
I have tried a fresh BR8es plug. I have check the inspection cap on the left side and revved the bike and the gear did rotate. I freshly repacked the silencer making sure it didn’t get obstructed upon assembly. The main is a 160 pilot is a 45 at 1 turn out. The needle is stock and I’m pretty sure I have it on the 2nd clip if not the 3rd. Fuel flow seemed adequate but I will double check that. Haven’t messed with jet block gasket. The carb was bored by FRP to a 36mm, not sure if he covered that. Still haven’t performed the leak down test. I have never done a leak down test and my air compressor won’t hook up to one as far as I can tell. The motion pro leak down tester with the pump bulb would be nice but it’s so expensive. ThanksSS109 wrote: 07:38 pm Jul 13 2022 Yeah, basically 90 to 150 psi is acceptable. If I get down to 120psi I'm doing a top end but that's me.
As for the power loss, time to start going through the basics. Is your air filter clean and properly oiled? Have you tried a fresh NGK BR8ES plug? Have you checked that the powervalves are installed correctly and moving freely? Is your silencer freshly packed and in good mechanical shape? What's your jetting - main, pilot, which needle and clip position, and air screw turns? Are you getting good fuel flow to the carb? Is your float height correct? Have you checked the jet block gasket? Leakdown test?
You need to pull the pipe, look up inside the exhaust port, and manually operate the KIPS to make sure all three valves open up. If Fredette did the carb then I'm pretty sure it should be good but still worth checking the jet block gasket.JZ05220r wrote: 08:13 pm Jul 13 2022 I have check the inspection cap on the left side and revved the bike and the gear did rotate.
Ok good to know. How do I manually open the KIPS? ThanksSS109 wrote: 07:11 am Jul 14 2022You need to pull the pipe, look up inside the exhaust port, and manually operate the KIPS to make sure all three valves open up. If Fredette did the carb then I'm pretty sure it should be good but still worth checking the jet block gasket.JZ05220r wrote: 08:13 pm Jul 13 2022 I have check the inspection cap on the left side and revved the bike and the gear did rotate.
Oh, BTW, you'll never want to use an air compressor for doing a leakdown test. Normally 4psi is more than enough. You get much higher than that and you risk blowing out seals.
Just remove the arm cover and manually turn the actuator arm.JZ05220r wrote: 07:25 am Jul 14 2022Ok good to know. How do I manually open the KIPS? ThanksSS109 wrote: 07:11 am Jul 14 2022You need to pull the pipe, look up inside the exhaust port, and manually operate the KIPS to make sure all three valves open up. If Fredette did the carb then I'm pretty sure it should be good but still worth checking the jet block gasket.JZ05220r wrote: 08:13 pm Jul 13 2022 I have check the inspection cap on the left side and revved the bike and the gear did rotate.
Oh, BTW, you'll never want to use an air compressor for doing a leakdown test. Normally 4psi is more than enough. You get much higher than that and you risk blowing out seals.
I will check that out. ThanksSlick_Nick wrote: 09:38 am Jul 14 2022Just remove the arm cover and manually turn the actuator arm.JZ05220r wrote: 07:25 am Jul 14 2022Ok good to know. How do I manually open the KIPS? ThanksSS109 wrote: 07:11 am Jul 14 2022
You need to pull the pipe, look up inside the exhaust port, and manually operate the KIPS to make sure all three valves open up. If Fredette did the carb then I'm pretty sure it should be good but still worth checking the jet block gasket.
Oh, BTW, you'll never want to use an air compressor for doing a leakdown test. Normally 4psi is more than enough. You get much higher than that and you risk blowing out seals.
Here’s 3 pictures for each valve closed.. ThanksJZ05220r wrote: 07:25 am Jul 14 2022Ok good to know. How do I manually open the KIPS? ThanksSS109 wrote: 07:11 am Jul 14 2022You need to pull the pipe, look up inside the exhaust port, and manually operate the KIPS to make sure all three valves open up. If Fredette did the carb then I'm pretty sure it should be good but still worth checking the jet block gasket.JZ05220r wrote: 08:13 pm Jul 13 2022 I have check the inspection cap on the left side and revved the bike and the gear did rotate.
Oh, BTW, you'll never want to use an air compressor for doing a leakdown test. Normally 4psi is more than enough. You get much higher than that and you risk blowing out seals.
Heres 3 with them open while manually turning the actuator rod with a wrench. The actuator doesn’t return on its own at all unless I put a little pressure with a wrench to return it back.JZ05220r wrote: 07:25 am Jul 14 2022Ok good to know. How do I manually open the KIPS? ThanksSS109 wrote: 07:11 am Jul 14 2022You need to pull the pipe, look up inside the exhaust port, and manually operate the KIPS to make sure all three valves open up. If Fredette did the carb then I'm pretty sure it should be good but still worth checking the jet block gasket.JZ05220r wrote: 08:13 pm Jul 13 2022 I have check the inspection cap on the left side and revved the bike and the gear did rotate.
Oh, BTW, you'll never want to use an air compressor for doing a leakdown test. Normally 4psi is more than enough. You get much higher than that and you risk blowing out seals.
So is the fact the it won’t return closed on its own when manually turning the actuator shaft a normal thing? Same thing when I turn the hex under the small inspection cap.SS109 wrote: 07:07 pm Jul 14 2022 Ok, we've eliminated the KIPS. It looks like it is operating like it should. I would do a leakdown test next to make sure it's not an air leak in the bottom end. If you look up online you can make a cheap one yourself (If I remember correctly I think even a member here has dosumented how they made one) for about $20-30.
It did but not very quickly.SS109 wrote: 12:24 am Jul 15 2022 No, that is not normal. Something is broken and you'll need disassemble the top end to find out. You said earlier that the KIPS shaft rotated when the engine revved up. Did it close on it's own then?
It was replated but like mentioned it was done by the FRP who I’m sure is one of the best in the world to work on a Kdx. Everything seems pretty clean. Their is a noticeable notchy feeling at the end of the actuator arms stroke when I go to manually return it counter clockwise.KDXGarage wrote: 06:16 am Jul 16 2022 Did you get it plated? Any chance the subvalve ports have a little build up, preventing smooth operation?
I’m also noticing when turning the gear below the slotted cap I that their is no spring tension until I turn it about the first 1/4 of the movement counterclockwise.KDXGarage wrote: 06:16 am Jul 16 2022 Did you get it plated? Any chance the subvalve ports have a little build up, preventing smooth operation?