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What a nightmare. I figured EBC was a good brand. Just my luck. Thanks for all the help. Are the clutch plates for EBC OK or should I not risk it and go with another brand?

The EBC plates are fine, the only issue I have ever had is with the springs in the KDX kit. The springs I got with my RMX kit worked fine.

DenverKdxRider wrote: 09:45 am Jun 15 2021 What a nightmare. I figured EBC was a good brand. Just my luck. Thanks for all the help. Are the clutch plates for EBC OK or should I not risk it and go with another brand?

So did you get some proper springs and get yourself sorted?

OK so I got the stock springs on and the actuator fits..yay! Adjust the clutch cable and it's pulling..but the thing now though is when I try to put the bike in gear..there doesn't seem to be any drag on the tire..like it's almost in neutral the entire time...that definitely doesn't seem right. I haven't tried starting it but clearly something is wrong. Should the bike be in neutral or in a gear when I put the clutch on? Is this common with a new clutch kit?

If you have a caliper have you measured the difference between the EBC and the OEM springs? The service manual clearly shows the clutch reassembly and service limit checks, you are using a service manual, right?

Is there any free play at the clutch lever?

How many adjustment washers are you using? Set it up as per the service manual.

OK so still struggling! So frustrated. According to the manual, if the compression level arm attached to the cable is less than 80 degrees..you should remove a shim, if it's more than 90 degrees..add a shim.

Welp, mine is sitting at around 70-75 degrees with no shims on. I've put on a new clutch cable, adjusted the crap out of it to try and get it to tighten up to get the compression release at the right angle, and even bought a Barnett clutch set for good measure (yes I am that desperate). I even added a shim (why not?) and it made the clutch pull incredibly difficult.

My question is, maybe I am not seeing the angle correctly (cause I'm a horrible mechanic). In my angle setup where it's at 70-75 degrees and when I shift into gear it doesn't seem to engage the gear. Will I only get engine drag when I turn the engine on after putting on the new clutch? Or when I pull in the clutch should I expect to get engine drag when the bike is off?

This shouldn't be that hard!

Sorry for your pain.
I have not had to replace clutch yet so mine is pretty worn in. Not sure if this helps:
My engine drags a lot when in gear, engine is off, and clutch pulled in. I put it in neutral to roll it around, if engine off.
With engine running I can roll it around easily in gear, with clutch pulled in.

A KDX won't roll around easily with the engine off and clutch in.

Watch this KDX clutch video. The whole thing is good but particularly the part from 50 seconds to about 1:05. What he explains would be causing the issue you’re having. Maybe you already assembled it like him but that’s the only thing I can think of.

If you assemble it like he does but the basket is still on the bike, then you need to put the bike in gear with the back wheel off the ground. Barely rotate the tire back and forth when you slide the clutch pack into the basket so the splines can all line up.

I tried that with the existing EBC clutch kit and stock springs and still no joy..however; I THINK I FIXED IT! I used the complete Barnett clutch kit with the plates and springs and put it on and the actuator seems to be going on correctly!

There is definitely an issue with the size of the plates/rings on the EBC kit and the stock springs. If you remember I had to throw out the EBC kit springs because they were to strong and the stock springs and EBC kit were just not compatible. Anyway....SCREW EBC CLUTCh KITS!!..dear lord. I've wasted like 3 weeks of the riding season!

Soaking the Barnett plates right now and going to throw them on the in the morning. Will keep you posted. Thanks for hanging in there and giving me all this advice!

Awesome! Hope that was the issue.

I am glad you found a solution. Get to riding!

As our story continues..soaked the clutch plates..put it back on and SAME thing. Clutch just wouldn't engage! (cussing and swearing ensues). Also tried to call a few mechanics who didn't want to work on my bike because it was too old!

So again started tinkering and found the solution!!! When I first started this thread, I had ground down the original clutch pulley to try and fit the cover on with the actuator and cover on when I had the EBC kit and springs on. That didn't work of course. Then when I realized I should use different springs I ordered another stock clutch pulley. Well this morning when I was tinkering I accidentally had put the pulley I had ground down on and realized the clutch started to engage a bit more and aligned properly. The one with the yellow arrow is on bike..the other on the left is the stock pulley..



Secondly, the manual I have says you are meant to put the last friction plate in the grooved notches in the clutch basket..I don't care what it says..or if it's correct..or if my bike rode the special bus to school or with my ADD I read it wrong but this just doesn't work. The clutch will not engage and even in gear it "rolls" like it's in neutral even when in gear. I put it in the plates all aligned..(see below).



With the combination of the shortened clutch pulley and the clutch basket with all plates aligned it work! It rides and shifts smoother than I've ever experienced before. I rode for about 10 minutes up and down the road and it's working!! I really appreciate all the help! Hopefully this helps some more schmuck down the road!

Hmm,I don't like having to use that modified push rod. You absolutely should not need that and, if you do, something still isn't right.

I tried it again with the original pully and it’s the same behavior. It doesn’t engage. The only thing I can think of is I used my dewalt electric impact to tighten the lock nut. If it’s not fully tightened to spec, will the basket not be “in enough” to accommodate the stock pulley?

Are you sure you have the washers in the correct order for the basket including the weird conical one?

SS109 wrote: 06:22 am Jun 27 2021 Are you sure you have the washers in the correct order for the basket including the weird conical one?

This. The washers are critical for spacing the clutch basket properly. Use a parts fiche on Kawasaki's website (owner center - parts diagrams)

Please remove your modified pushrod, if the stock one isn't working, you have an issue elsewhere.

As for the final friction plate being offset in the basket, that's not required. In fact my aftermarket basket didn't even have the notches to accept this installation.

Ya I have service manual and also have checked the parts diagram on sites like Partzilla and bike bandit. Over the past 2 weeks I have taken it apart and put it together literally 20 times and referenced the clutch diagram every time. I have checked, double checked and re-checked the clutch assembly and I know I have all the washers in the correct order. The most important being the washer that goes against the bearing before the metal sleeve and another washer that goes on the inside of the clutch basket before you put in the inner hub that holds the plates. I didn’t put on those two rings that go on the inner part of the hub but it doesn’t seem to make a difference.

When I use the stock pulley..it just doesn’t go into gear. There’s a tiny bit of drag in first gear but it’s clearly not engaging. I’ve adjusted the heck out of the clutch cable to get the right free play and it just will not engage. At this point, clearly I need to go to a mechanic cause I’ve tried just about everything.

Only two things I can think of is I need to tighten the lock nut to 65 ft lbs (I’m using a electric impact so it’s prob not as tight as it could be). I can’t seem to tighten it fully because the hub moves whenever I try to tighten it. That’s the only thing I can think of is, if it’s not tight enough the clutch could be sticking out to far. At this point, best to try to find a mechanic :(