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Thanks SS109!

You're welcome!

Update. I disconnected the kips shaft and rode it with the valves open manually, then turned it the other way manually. Ran the same. No better, no worse. So is that ruling out a kips problem or confirming it? here are pics of the shaft timing, I believe they are correct.

Here's a link to a great step by step...

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/65 ... to-kdx200/

So I am an idiot, I had the left and right subvalves switched around. However, I believe they were installed correctly first time around because I thought it was wrong then. What about the main valve? It appears it can be installed either way 180 degrees. Which is the correct orientation? Also the valves are really oily. They were completely clean before install. This is with 20 minutes run time. Normal?

I guess it only does go in 1 way. I stripped one of the bolts that holds it in. Can I tap to the next size or should I do a helicopter? Crap.

Looks awfully oily for only 20 mins, what fuel/oil ratio are you running and when was the carb tuned last? A helicoil should work fine, at least I would go that route rather than drill and tap up a size just to keep the fasteners correct. If you had the subvalves in the wrong spots then it would explain your lack of top end.

Ok I reassembled everything today. I took a marker and marked L and R to make sure I didn't screw that up again. Also hit the timing marks with nail polish to make it more visible. The subvalve with the red dot has the groove in it.. Can someone verify that this is correct?

Another pic.

Last

All looks right from here. With it reassembled, take a peek in the exhaust port and watch the subvalves as you rotate the actuator to make sure they are in there correctly

So the subvalves should work opposite of the main, correct? When subvalves are closed, main open, vice versa?

Kevin2502000 wrote: 06:24 pm Apr 21 2021 So the subvalves should work opposite of the main, correct? When subvalves are closed, main open, vice versa?

Correct. Below about 6k rpms the main valve is all the way down and the subvalves are open. This lowers the exhaust port (effectively lengthening the engines stroke) and opens the resonators to to create back pressure. When the KIPS actuates, the main valve will slide up, and the sub valves will close off the resonator.

bufftester wrote: 08:13 pm Apr 21 2021

Kevin2502000 wrote: 06:24 pm Apr 21 2021 So the subvalves should work opposite of the main, correct? When subvalves are closed, main open, vice versa?

Correct. Below about 6k rpms the main valve is all the way down and the subvalves are open. This lowers the exhaust port (effectively lengthening the engines stroke) and opens the resonators to to create back pressure. When the KIPS actuates, the main valve will slide up, and the sub valves will close off the resonator.

Thank you, I appreciate your time.

I agree. That all looks correct. Hopefully you have some power back at this point. Let us know how it goes.

Well tested it today and same thing, cuts out above low rpm. I starting to lean towards an ignition problem, cdi, stator or coil. Just don't understand how it could work fine before the engine rebuild.

Long shot. Anything plugged, exhaust, airbox? I left a rag in my airbox once that i put there so rodents wouldn't get in over winter. Took apart quite a few things before realizing it.

Can you try the old reeds.

I thought about that. It's under a load when it acts up, revs fine in neutral. I did check air box and exhaust first time around. I hate to be the parts switcher guy to figure it out but that might be the cheapest.

I'm a little confused about checking the ignition coil. Do you check the blue wire to the ground lug at the coil and what is that reading? The cap and high tension lead were within specs. Another thing I remembered, I had disconnected the voltage regulator while I was trying to install a rectifier but gave up. I had been riding it without that hooked up. I was under the impression that was strictly for the lighting part so shouldn't affect the ignition system. Can anyone confirm this? The plug also looks oily like it wasn't getting good detonation. Switched out plugs twice. It acts just like a bad spark plug which make me suspicious of the ignition system. Thanks for any ideas.

Had a similar problem once, turned out to be the plug wire itself so double check that it's in good shape and seated fully in to the coil. Here is the factory testing procedure. Get yourself a factory manual for future repairs and maintenance. It will save you a lot of time and headaches!