KDXRIDER.NET

Excellent job on the work so far. I too had a silencer with a crack in the same area. After checking around locally and guys wanting $75 as a minimum job cost to fix, I tried to JB it a few times. It was no match for it and leaked every time. I reluctantly bought a new silencer for it.

Thanks John_S. Yea, not cheap, and I need to get one with a spark arrestor for woods riding. So, most likely on the short list before spring.

Got a little more done in between work and other home projects.

Need some new cables.
Cleaning up the radiator and using a tiny screwdriver to straighten the fins. Hoses look pretty good still.
Painted up the swingarm, three coats primer, three light coats paint, three coats clear. Turned out pretty good considering the temperature was not ideal to spray.

Pulled the motor and everything else off the frame. Need to do some serious cleaning.
Preview on the piston.
Some rough spots on the frame. Did some sandblasting along with some hand sanding.

Nice work! I did a double take on the hoses. The swingarm looks great, too!

swinger looks good

Thanks guys for the encouragement. I appreciate it.
Work travel and weather slowing me down a bit but here are the updated pics and progress.

Finally a few warmer days. Primer on, three coats engine enamel duplicolor primer.
Three coats Grabber Green engine enamel duplicolor. Turned out ok and should keep the corrosion off.
Finished three coats clear engine enamel duplicolor. Feel like I have turned the corner now and ready to start getting it back together even though much to do yet.
I got a little sidetracked building this soda blaster box. works great for cleaning up parts. all-in-all cost me about $60 including the blaster from HF. (soda media not included). WM 126qt container so I can fit the engine inside. WM picture frame with glass, old tube and masonite rings for the arm holes. Hook up to air compressor and shop vac, throw on the HF blast gloves and go. Super fun to play with and to get the hard to reach grimy spots.

WOW! That is great!

Congratulations on the frame looking great, but that blasting box looks really great. :-)

Got the shock back together. No real issues other than needing to get a lighter torque wrench with 5-80 ft lbs. Torqued shaft nut to 25 ft lbs and red permanent thread locker. Went with a new Racetech seal head in addition to the KYB band & seal, nut, and bumper.
I went very slow on this when doing the oil to avoid a mess. Maxima 3W for the shock oil. Replaced the bladder and still need to get the nitrogen filled. Did some soda blasting on the shock housing to brighten up the finish.
Playing around with cleaning the radiator screens. Will clear coat with SC1 prior to install when I do the other plastics.
Cleaned up the pipe with drill wire wheel and buffer pad with compound. Will include new OEM seals on install since the old ones were crispy.
Cleanup on the motor getting ready to dig into the piston and transmission. Made this temp stopper to keep the degreaser and grime out.

Here are a few videos I watched in addition to the comments and threads on this forum.

KYB shock that is very close to what I have.


Another one that is a similar shock but has some tips also.

Looks great.

Did you soda blast the radiator louver? It looks terrific!

That's a real nice looking frame and swingarm, will be nice to see this get completed!

Thanks clappy.

KDXG, yes did the soda blast on the louvers. Left a bit of a light texture but lower psi maybe might be better, finding that sweet spot to get the grime off without loosing material. I'm thinking some light sanding with a fine grit pad then the clear coat should smooth it out.

Man. It looks really, really good.

Looking good

Digging into the motor while I wait for the cartridge fork rebuild parts to come in.

Important part removal. A wrench, some pb blaster, plus a small cordless impact driver worked well for getting the governor nut loose. Hopefully no issues down the way on the governor but I'm going to look anyway since I am having some shifting issues which may be related to the gear change drum.
Temporary plate to help hold the shaft from rotating when removing the KIPS shaft nut.
Unable to remove the main exhaust valve. Anyone have any suggestions on this??? seems to be pretty stuck and might just be carbon buildup but I don't want to break anything.
Cylinder head looks pretty good after a quick cleanup.

Piston looks like a wiseco based on numbers, so someone has been in here before.
Pitting on the cylinder wall. I think I know the answer to this but feedback and suggestions welcome.

I read in another thread that the porous spots are not an issue? Am I understanding that correctly? I don't see any scratches that will catch a fingernail and last time I rode it was going strong. Slap another piston in and run it for this round of maintenance and then look at replate next winter??? Or, send it off?
Thanks

Yes, the KIPS has built up carbon.

Head looks great!

Was the cylinder ever replated before? I don't see an issue with the oil holding pockets. :-)

I bet whoever changed the piston didn't clean the KIPS, as the piston top looks pretty clean.

I'm not certain if it has been replated, unknown to my knowledge.