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well, you could just do a left side, preferable to have a matched set so you know they mate up correctly, but doesn't have to be.

So, you didn't replace the Suzuki seal??

If so, try a Kawasaki seal, then if that fails, get a set of halves and swap things over.

Read up on matched halves.

KDXGarage wrote: 11:23 am May 13 2020 You might want to clean it up and inspect it. The globs used may be J-B Weld. I would do one of the following:

1. clean it up, rough it up, reapply J-B Weld, ride it and hope for the best.

2. disassemble, buy a pair of used crankcase halves, new bearings, seals, bushings, etc.

Either way, please let the next owner know the situation. For example:

viewtopic.php?f=86&t=23643&p=208035&hilit=leave#p208035


Chuck.png

Yes, a set of halves

KDXGarage wrote: 12:08 am Jun 30 2020 So, you didn't replace the Suzuki seal??

If so, try a Kawasaki seal, then if that fails, get a set of halves and swap things over.

No, I haven't replaced the seal. I don't know how to figure out what Suzuki seal was used in order to try another one, do you?

And to try a Kawasaki seal, I think the outer metal band will not go in smoothly because of the hole distortion caused by the punch marks made when someone chose this method to replace the seal. What do you think?

I think the Suzuki seal appears to be all rubber and probably stands the best chance at being replaced if I knew what model bike it was from.

Thanks for the help!
Chuck

Does it not have the numbers on the seal? Is it not the same size as stock?

Replacing the seal might be worth a shot.

ChucksKDX wrote: 09:35 am Jun 30 2020 No, I haven't replaced the seal. I don't know how to figure out what Suzuki seal was used in order to try another one, do you?

And to try a Kawasaki seal, I think the outer metal band will not go in smoothly because of the hole distortion caused by the punch marks made when someone chose this method to replace the seal. What do you think?

I think the Suzuki seal appears to be all rubber and probably stands the best chance at being replaced if I knew what model bike it was from.

Thanks for the help!
Chuck

Clean the seal off it looks like it has the sizes on it if not pull it, measure the OD and ID of the seal for size also width once removed, Look in your local area for a shop that specializes in bearings and seals, these places are good for replacement quality bearing and seals, NTN, SKF, KOYO bearings. often much cheaper then OEM. I can't see why the guy who did this would install a different size seal then OEM. You can ask if they have the seals in rubber or steel outer flange, make sure double lipped, get a couple they are cheap, Viton if you want something higher temp but general purpose is original, good for up to 250deg f, Viton up to 400deg f. Now for the case, depending on how careful you are you might be able to knock off the inner raised area from the center punch with a file( or rotary tool if very careful) but cleanliness is very important nothing allowed in the bearing. I don't see them causing a problem, me I would just leave them, the only spot I see where any significant amount of material would have been moved is at the 6 o-clock position the Suzuki symbol, others are to far out. Coat the OD of the new seal with case sealant or Loctite, this is my new favorite https://www.permatex.com/products/threa ... eadlocker/ . install the new seal with either a large socket or tube or gentle taps with a hammer, take your time. let the sealant dry over night then apply the JB weld around the entire area of the seal/case joint, once you remove the seal check for ANY movement in the crank, up/down side/side if any a new seal will most likely not help, sorry..

Typically, the cases are a matched set. With a mis-matched set, it is possible that the cylinder joint faces won't be on the same exact plane, and this will result in an air leak.

KDXGarage wrote: 10:30 am Jun 30 2020 Does it not have the numbers on the seal? Is it not the same size as stock?

Replacing the seal might be worth a shot.

Picked up an OEM seal for $9 shipped. Will have Monday. Think it's worth a shot before tearing it apart. Thanks for all the advice guys.

All you guys are so generous with your knowledge, that's why I love this forum. And I really love the KDX. Thanks! Will let you know how it goes!

Chuck

JimmyB wrote: 12:30 pm Jun 30 2020 Coat the OD of the new seal with case sealant or Loctite, this is my new favorite https://www.permatex.com/products/threa ... eadlocker/ . install the new seal with either a large socket or tube or gentle taps with a hammer, take your time. let the sealant dry over night then apply the JB weld around the entire area of the seal/case joint,

Thanks for the tip on the Permatex, I'll try that. Then the JB. Then...cross my fingers.

If you already have case(Yamabond etc.) or RTV sealant( something like Permatex ultra series etc.) you can use this as it remains flexible for installing the seal, it might take the heat and cooling cycling of the motor better, make sure everything is clean/oil free,just a very thin layer.

Tech tip , put a drop of your favorite grease under the caps, it keeps the RTV sealants from drying out..

When I get time, I am going to become immortal, as well as build a time machine. Once I get that done, I will then go back in time over and over stopping idiots from doing what was done to this engine.

Good luck on the seal.

Okay guys, need one last piece of advice before I try this new seal. I only get one shot at this. I've cleaned up the edge of the bottom where the punch marks boogered up the outer seal surface. It cleaned up pretty good with a small file. Here's my dilemma; I'm not sure whether to try a thin coat of the orange Permatex locking agent around the outer edge of the new seal or a thin coat of hi-temp black RTV. I get the angle that the Permatex is to provide some protection from the seal coming out as the seal holders on each side were removed. However, I think I run a greater risk of hairline leaks around the outer metal surface of the new seal from the hackjob done with the punch. While I've cleaned it up the best I can, it still is not 'factory'. So I'm leaning toward a film of black RTV on the outer edge of the new seal. After I get the seal in, I'm also going to put JB Weld in place of the seal holders that were removed and slightly over the edge of the new seal. This is a $9 'hail Mary' gamble versus a $300 tear down and fix, but I'm going to try it. What do you guys think?

Chuck

JimmyB wrote: 03:40 pm Jun 30 2020 If you already have case(Yamabond etc.) or RTV sealant( something like Permatex ultra series etc.) you can use this as it remains flexible for installing the seal, it might take the heat and cooling cycling of the motor better, make sure everything is clean/oil free,just a very thin layer.

Tech tip , put a drop of your favorite grease under the caps, it keeps the RTV sealants from drying out..

Apply JB Weld over the seal and case joint and I think you would be good..

JimmyB wrote: 02:02 pm Jul 09 2020

JimmyB wrote: 03:40 pm Jun 30 2020 If you already have case(Yamabond etc.) or RTV sealant( something like Permatex ultra series etc.) you can use this as it remains flexible for installing the seal, it might take the heat and cooling cycling of the motor better, make sure everything is clean/oil free,just a very thin layer.

Tech tip , put a drop of your favorite grease under the caps, it keeps the RTV sealants from drying out..

Apply JB Weld over the seal and case joint and I think you would be good..

Thanks, I appreciate it! So thin layer of RTV around seal, and JB around case joint after install. Not sure what you mean by 'grease under the caps'? You mean the backside of the lip that goes around the crankshaft?

He means that when you are done using your tube of RTV, put some grease inside the cap so that when you put the cap on it will keep air out of the tube and keep the RTV from creating that plug you always have to poke a hole in.

Thin layer of RTV on the outer of seal, grease the inner lip of the seal to prevent damage when installing, once the RTV has dried apply the JB Weld.
Sorry,The Tech Tip was for the tube of RTV sealant, if you put a dab of grease on the tubes opening before threading on the caps it keeps the RTV sealant from drying out for a very long time, when you go to use it again just give it a little squeeze and wipe the grease off and its good to use..

Okay, got it. Thanks!

40 seconds of research confirms my initial thoughts:

"Note: Not recommended for
parts in contact with gasoline.
"

Ultra Black

https://441py33rout1ptjxn2lupv31-wpengi ... /82180.pdf

KDXGarage wrote: 09:20 am Jul 10 2020 40 seconds of research confirms my initial thoughts:

"Note: Not recommended for
parts in contact with gasoline.
"

Ultra Black

https://441py33rout1ptjxn2lupv31-wpengi ... /82180.pdf

WOW, I am really sorry for suggesting the wrong product... Should have been their MotoSeal product...

Too late now, I put it in late last night. So is this going to trash my motor now when I run it?