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Congratulations. DO check to make sure it is ever so slightly touching.

It makes me wonder if filing it down for these bearings would make it too short for the OEM bearings.

kdxsully wrote: 06:01 am May 19 2020 Make sure that spacer still puts pressure on those inner races, it counters the loads from the dont axle when torqued down. If necessary you can file it down a bit so it doesn't give you this problem when the bearings are fully seated. It should be a perfect fit as is though

I think what I would try the next time I have the wheel bearings out, is when bashing them back in, I would go super gentle on installing the last wheel bearing, tapping carefully until it's just BARELY seated, till it just BARELY starts making that different sound it makes when you strike it. That might leave just enough room for the center of the wheel bearings to move side-to-side just enough so the bearings aren't ultra-tight. That or like you said, sand/grind/machine down the end of the center spacer tube by a fraction of a millimeter, maybe .25mm, and that would probably give the space you need too.

I wonder how many other KDX riders out there that are having this same problem we're talking about, and don't even know it? How many others just think their front wheel has "always been pretty tight" and just try to ignore it until the bearing finally wears down a little bit inside and gets looser eventually?

The spacer between the inner races should be a certain length(75mm), it does not float around between the bearing races, if the spacer is too short it will pull the inner races together, if too long it will push them apart, when you tighten down the axle it places the inner part of the speedo drive against the inner race of the right bearing, then against the spacer, then against the inner race of the left bearing, then the left small collar finally tightening everything up against the left fork leg, the entire inner assembly should now work as one solid unit. How do the inner races of these new bearings move if you try turning them by hand(finger)?
The left bearing (outer race) is held in place with the clip, the right might be designed to float but is pressed in too, I have always just driven them in by the outer races until you get a different tone.. once the axle is torqued down you might give the axle a "SLIGHT" tap from the right before torqueing down the fork clamp nuts and see if it seats everything.

That is just 1 reason I won't run Pivot Works or All Balls bearings in anything. They are cheap and never fit right and they don't last near as long as OEM. Not worth the little savings you get over quality OEM bearings. Sorry not trying to bash but I see this all the time with aftermarket parts. I will always advise against All Balls and Pivot Works. 1/2 the price but 1/10th the quality.

See, now I must be the contrarian, as usual.

I currently have Pivot Works and All Balls bearing in my KDX wheels. I can't remember which brand I put on each end but that's what I used. As most know I'm a stickler for using OEM bearing inside the engine cases of any brand bike as I want to reduce the chances for problems there. That said, those bearings have 8 years, and well over 1000 hours, of riding on them without fail. Just changed tires back in March and the bearings still feel good and I have no plans to replace them any time soon. I highly doubt I got the only perfect sets from each brand as I was shopping for the cheapest option at the time since I was on a budget. I had always heard they weren't as good as OEM but here we are 8 years later and still going. I think most encounter problems with these bearings due to improper installation or, like I've seen many people do, they mess with the factory seals on them and pack in more/different grease.

Of course, this is all just my opinion and my experience using both brands. I say use OEM if you can afford it but I would have no issue buying either brand again for my wheels.

I guess the next time someone does wheel bearings, maybe check the width of the new bearings compared to the removed bearings. Maybe the hub was bored too deep?? Did it ever work properly? Hard to say after the fact.

I will be the nerd to say, buy another inner sleeve and sand it down to perfection instead of the original one.

I just checked the price. What the heck?! $31!! SHUT UP, NERD!