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All righty. Thanks Trevor. If not I'll have to turn that shaft again to the next position. But I think its good where it is, now just have to align to rear marking
TTFN

My pleasure...

Keep in mind there is considerable difference (as in exactly opposite) in reversing the point of applied torque in any application.

The spring moving the pin on the activation shaft is NOT the same as wrenching on the SHAFT to move the PIN!

The forces used may be the same, but the limitation of movement will be completely different!! At the point that movement limit is reached by the activator..fine. When it's reached by the actiVATED..and you keep applying pressure...things break.

You have a 5.125" movement limit. You need to move a bowling ball. Use an egg to move the ball 5". Fine. Use the bowling ball to move the egg...5.25". Oops.

I'm going to order a new rod today. Just to be safe.

To have resistance means the shaft can't be broken. If it was broken it would just spin and spin and spin and......

I put the bike on the stand, took the casing off that conceals the Claw, & gears. When the bike is brought mid throttle & above there was slight movement (maybe 1/4 to 1/2 activation)So It looks SCREWED to me. With regards to the inner & outer gears. I'm refering to the outer as the gear the CLAW meshes to, the inner is the closest to the CYLINDER. I looked again and did see a Small PUNCH MARK under the white marking on the INNER GEAR. But the Outer gear did have a WHITE MARKING also, BUT NO PUNCH. I re-positioned the CLAW onto the gear, taking into consideration that when the cover is on movement SHOULD NOT be impeded by the cover. So I believe that would be the right position, but the amount of play appears to be why the lever is not Spinning/Torquing properly when the engine reaches the RPMS needed for activation. So I ordered the parts yesterday and should have by friday. SO MUCH FUN NOW
I'm going over NYKDXER's house tonight to take a look at how his is positioned (AND I HAVE WRENCHES )

I looked at the SERVICE MANUAL AGAIN and it is indicating to line the punch on the CLAW to the notched tooth on the OUTER/MAIN GEAR.
This is driving me F$%#ING NUTS

You shouldn't need any parts by the sounds of it. It just sounds like the shaft has spun out of alignment where it goes into the actuator (the pin isn't riding in the groove anymore, refer to pic). I have done it and it sounds like the same symptoms. RHS cover off, realign it, reassemble and voila.

Don't worry about that notched tooth on the outer gear GH, we discussed that in the other thread, I doubt there are many people who have it. You'll figure it out no problem- Main shaft full CCW (valve closed position) and align claw, it will only go one way if the above is followed.

Yes I know everyone has a punch on the claw and a punch on the inner gear but I am refering to a NOTCHED tooth ( meaning shorter length tooth as illustrated) on the outer gear as stated in the manual.

Re: What KayD said...

Here's what happened from the description:

GH said: 'After the shaft spun into a different position...'

This relates to the limits of movement I mentioned earlier. Once the KIPS 'train' is unhitched anywhere, the separated parts can be moved to excess. Turn the activation shaft with the KIPS 'disconnected' and you will be able to move the pin far enough to remove it from the groove. Then the spring closes. Rotate the activation shaft back..and you won't be in the groove anymore.

What you will end up with is exactly wat KayD is saying. You don't know until you look at it if the pin got bent.

I've read of only two effects to the shaft from not supporting it when removing the LHTed nut: 1. Bent pin, 2. Twisted shaft.

I don't recall ever hearing of a shaft BREAKING as an immediate result of shaft non-support..when they have broken, it's later..the fatigue from twisting causing it to break in-use (engine running, KIPS activated).

Yes, I do understand I've said the exact same thing KayD said..but he only needed one sentence to do it, and I get paid by the word!!

Re Phil: '...it will only go one way if the above is followed.'

Yep.

Great pics, KayD. Thanks!!

We want to see what YOURS looks like, GH!

Well...I do.....

I'll take pics, but be prepared, could be a horror show.

Trevor-When you take that Screw & pin out (The screw/pin thats assesable from the cover). What does that allow you to do. Can you change to position greatly or what??

Is this the screw / pin you mean ?? If so it does nothing to aid in getting the pin back into its groove.

Yep, that be it. Mine is either broke or more likely in the wrong position. Gerry's KDX200, I AM NOT ABLE TO TURN BY HAND (Claw lever & Gear) Mine I can, so the position of resistence is screwed on mine
Screwed the Pooch-Right CC

**Hijack**

Kind of curious how it is KayD has so much time to take so many pictures of pieces of his bike............

Isn't the idea to get them put together somewhere along the line?

/**Hijack**

It would be fine if Kawasaki Japan and it's parts weren't 3 weeks away.

Well heres the pics

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/modules. ... _album.php

Sorry to see that....

Of course, that was the one F#$KING part I did not order, thought about ordering it this past tuesday, but figured that was not the piece that was screwed. Well, we know now, RIGHT

Right !!!

Ouch man I feel your pain. Hopefully you won't have to wait 3 weeks for the part to come from Japan. Thanks for the update and you definately did a good job. Hope it all works out for the best.

I'll have by this coming weekend. Just in time for the DF 3 setup.