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Ha, thanks. Nice job on the hybrid, looks sweet.

I can answer this question because I have done it! Well, I came very close to doing it!

The bottom ends ARE in fact identical. And what I mean by bottom end, I'm talking left and right case halves, crank, rod, transmission shafts, gears, shifter, KIPS governor, kick starter...and that might be it, actually. You will need from the H:

Head
Cylinder with KIPS bits
KIPS shaft
Inner clutch cover with water pump stuff
Outer clutch cover
Clutch and clutch actuator

The bottom end mount points are identical. The swingarm pivot is the same diameter. The intake manifold and exhaust port are in the same location, so one pipe will work with either E or H top end, and same goes for the carb/manifold/reeds. The H and E head stay mount points are slightly different, I think.

I know this because I started out with an E motor in my 2003 hybrid and I now have an H in there (too many KIPS valve breaks and found a cheap H). I came very close to just putting the H stuff on my E cases, but ended up repairing the H bottom end instead. The only change I had to make was to my head stay mounts--the H was offset more than the E, and if I used both of my mount plates, one of them hit my IMS tank. So I just run one plate.

Anyway, I hope this helps!

Split the cases and find the kips pin jammed in the shifting drum. Or in the gears.

It takes about two hours from the back of the truck to open on the bench.

I finished assembling the engine with the E series bottom end. Dfeckel is correct about the parts needed (Head, Cylinder with KIPS bits, KIPS shaft, Inner clutch cover with water pump stuff, Outer clutch cover, & Clutch and clutch actuator). The bottom ends are almost identical aside from a few small details.

Here are some pictures of the swap.

Some notes:

- The H series motors have 2 pins under the head. The E series motors do not have this, and do not have the accepting holes. The pins cannot be used.
- The H series and E seried clutches are very different. The H series is slightly larger in diameter, and thicker.
- For the reason above, the E series input shaft is slightly shorter than the H. This results in slightly less thread engagment on the nut that holds the basket on. I opted to remove the washer under the nut to regain some threads, and torqued the snot out out it.
- The shifter paw and through rod are identical. I swapped the H series one int the E series, because someone welded the shifter on the E.

There are probably some things im forgetting, but overall, it was straight forward.