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I believe that time frame just went out the window. I would bet a paycheck it's going to need a replate (piston and rings are a given). May as well do a complete bottom end based on the condition of everything else at this point. That IS an abused bike.

Yup I think that cylinder is going to need to be shipped somewhere. Recommendations?

Millennium Technologies did mine. You need to buy a piston and send it with, or buy on from them, so that it can be matched. You also need to pull the studs (and replace the rusty ones), or they charge you to do that (it might be a good idea to let them do it) and remove the kips parts.

6 Riders wrote:Millennium Technologies did mine. You need to buy a piston and send it with, or buy on from them, so that it can be matched. You also need to pull the studs (and replace the rusty ones), or they charge you to do that (it might be a good idea to let them do it) and remove the kips parts.

how would i know how big of a piston to buy those scratches seem pretty deep above the exhaust port.

Go stock. They'll Nickel seal it back to stock size, welding up anything that is to deep to "just seal" over.
Link http://www.millennium-tech.net/serviceInfo.php?id=1

6 Riders wrote:Go stock. They'll Nickel seal it back to stock size, welding up anything that is to deep to "just seal" over.
Link http://www.millennium-tech.net/serviceInfo.php?id=1

What about jumping up to millennium's 225 kit? i mean heck more power right?

Yes sir, if you have the money! I am reading about it right now......Might as well.

If I'm reading that price right....Might as well, since you're looking at that much to do the same thing for stock size.

6 Riders wrote:If I'm reading that price right....Might as well, since you're looking at that much to do the same thing for stock size.

good thing the state of alabama owes me 500 bucks for a tax refund.... shhh don't tell my wife lol my biggest fear is one day she sells my stuff for what i said i paid...

ya i'm wondering if that's still the stock piston, and also how many hours are on it....

https://youtu.be/N-Wd6nnwO74

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For lower end bearing wear, side - to - side play can be misleading. You really need to measure the up and down play.

The manual calls for a radial clearance of 0.026 - 0.043 mm (.0009 - .0017 inches). The service limit listed is 0.10 mm (.004 inches) IMO, that service limit for the lower end rod bearing IS A LOT; for me too much.

To measure this up and down play, I would try to rig up a dial indicator and see what the numbers really are. Maybe you could clamp the indicator to one of the cylinder base studs.

Regarding the bore size, you really should measure the bore diameter. This will tell you if you have a stock bore or something oversize.

Stock bore for an H series KDX measures 66.026 - 66.041 mm.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

The up down play is in the neighborhood of tolerance for a turbo compressor, and tighter than a 50cc Honda valve. It's at the i think I can perceive some movement but meh?

I'll have to check it.

That piston is HAMMERED! Yes it looks like a stock piston, can't say if it's the original or not though.

Says made in Japan lol I'm guessing it is.

That piston doesn't even resemble a piston lol. Send the cylinder to Millennium, can do a 225 bore and replate. Get your new piston first so you can send it in with the cylinder to be on the safe side.

Looks like a good candidate for a frame up rebuild. If you get the frame Powdercoated, replace some bearings and new plastics you will have a really good looking bike.

Powdercoat? That might integrate with this weekend's ride.

Have you tried muriatic acid on the cylinder walls to get the aluminum off, maybe to get a better idea of exactly how bad it is?

Not yet. Been working like a mad man to get more money to pay for this habit lol

Ha! Good luck. Dirty bikes are our favorite money pit.