Posted: 11:01 pm Mar 11 2006
Yeah.... green! That makes sense don't it!
Page 2 of 2
Posted: 03:22 am Mar 12 2006
When I asked about color, I assumed that each color corresponds to a specific grit size. Right?, or was that just a bit silly of me?
Posted: 03:34 am Mar 12 2006
You are right, RED is more abrasive than GREEN.
Posted: 11:18 am Mar 12 2006
Thanks KDX. This is my 1st time messin with a THIN, coated aluminum cyl wall
Posted: 11:40 am Mar 12 2006
No probs... 
Posted: 06:21 pm Mar 12 2006
Look at the ports, how they open and close by looking through the front of the cylinder when its in your hand. Turn the KIPS Mechanism by hand and notice how they lock in the open & closed position. When re-assembling mine I noticed daylight through the left port in the open position. I re-set the left gear & problem solved. Also hold the FRICKING SHAFT ACUATOR ROD w/ an adjustable wrench when loosening that reverse thread nut. I have to take the resonator cover off tomorrow on mine, to see if the ports are opening. Don't want to crank her yet, still in the break in, but sounds good. Started on the 4th kick after completing the Top End Rebuild.
Posted: 02:48 pm Mar 13 2006
Re: 'C the largest..'
No. Take a look at the Pro-X sizing chart. They run to 'F'.
Believe it or not, although he may THINK he is being (again) sarcastic out the wazoo..KayD actually is pointing out something of value!
This comes under the heading of what presuming may do for 'ya...but maybe not everyplace in the world has different colors of Scotchbrite (brand name) pads!
They DO come in different colors. Using a white color pad won't accomplish anything, as that is spec'd for use on non-stick cookware.
It is indeed the GREEN stuff that is nasty enough to break any glaze on (and scratch hell out of pretty much) anything.
Re: what to use...
If you've done yer homework...you know that not everyone agrees on what to use on coated cylinders. EG 'fer instance specifies a ball hone be used on coated cylinders. Read his writeup closely, though, and electrofusion (KAW OEM) is NOT one of the coatings he is referring to when he's talkiing about a ball hone!!
Read Wiseco's pdf...and they specifically say to NOT use a ball hone! They DO specifically state that a diamond or rigid hone be used (disclaimer: if I recall their verbiage correctly).
Cripes!! Can you imagine using a rigid 3-stone hone on a 2-stroke cylinder? I'm afraid you would have to have a lesser number of brain cells than I have to even THINK about such a thing!!
Good grief. When did common sense die..and howcome there wasn't a big funeral in the news........
??
re: 'So much for their value to me..'
Please tell me you aren't referring to a Langcourt place!!??
BTW...I do understand your 'pitfall' comment to be directed to me.... ..and I DID say I hadn't seen a plating failure to NOT include tearing, peeling..maybe yours is indeed worn through in the spot you refer to.
That might resolve the 'leaving marks' part of your ChiCom gauge...but I really doubt it. The coating (electrofusion or whatever) is a hugely different metal than the aluminium it's bonded to. My bet is you will NOT be able to MISS the demarcation/line between the two metals if indeed the coating is worn through in one spot.
FURTHERMORE...the place you indicate the 'failure' to be is very unlikely to BE a failure brought about by a 'normal' malfunction. Intake-side seizure isn't too common and IS oil (failure) related. Yeah..I know you didn't say 'seizure'..but that is likely how plating damage comes to exist.
At that point the piston skirt has little to no radial pressure on it in that direction. Well..sez me..pitfalls beware!!! (consider the source and all...)
I've mentioned this in another thread...but...the cylinder I got from Mr. Fredette was very obviously well honed..and it looked to be ball honed to boot.
Well...or by a very a-retentive scotchbrite wielder. Man...those lines are s-t-r-a-i-g-h-t!
No. Take a look at the Pro-X sizing chart. They run to 'F'.
Believe it or not, although he may THINK he is being (again) sarcastic out the wazoo..KayD actually is pointing out something of value!
This comes under the heading of what presuming may do for 'ya...but maybe not everyplace in the world has different colors of Scotchbrite (brand name) pads!
They DO come in different colors. Using a white color pad won't accomplish anything, as that is spec'd for use on non-stick cookware.
It is indeed the GREEN stuff that is nasty enough to break any glaze on (and scratch hell out of pretty much) anything.
Re: what to use...
If you've done yer homework...you know that not everyone agrees on what to use on coated cylinders. EG 'fer instance specifies a ball hone be used on coated cylinders. Read his writeup closely, though, and electrofusion (KAW OEM) is NOT one of the coatings he is referring to when he's talkiing about a ball hone!!
Read Wiseco's pdf...and they specifically say to NOT use a ball hone! They DO specifically state that a diamond or rigid hone be used (disclaimer: if I recall their verbiage correctly).
Cripes!! Can you imagine using a rigid 3-stone hone on a 2-stroke cylinder? I'm afraid you would have to have a lesser number of brain cells than I have to even THINK about such a thing!!
Good grief. When did common sense die..and howcome there wasn't a big funeral in the news........
??re: 'So much for their value to me..'
Please tell me you aren't referring to a Langcourt place!!??
BTW...I do understand your 'pitfall' comment to be directed to me....
..and I DID say I hadn't seen a plating failure to NOT include tearing, peeling..maybe yours is indeed worn through in the spot you refer to.That might resolve the 'leaving marks' part of your ChiCom gauge...but I really doubt it. The coating (electrofusion or whatever) is a hugely different metal than the aluminium it's bonded to. My bet is you will NOT be able to MISS the demarcation/line between the two metals if indeed the coating is worn through in one spot.
FURTHERMORE...the place you indicate the 'failure' to be is very unlikely to BE a failure brought about by a 'normal' malfunction. Intake-side seizure isn't too common and IS oil (failure) related. Yeah..I know you didn't say 'seizure'..but that is likely how plating damage comes to exist.
At that point the piston skirt has little to no radial pressure on it in that direction. Well..sez me..pitfalls beware!!! (consider the source and all...)
I've mentioned this in another thread...but...the cylinder I got from Mr. Fredette was very obviously well honed..and it looked to be ball honed to boot.
Well...or by a very a-retentive scotchbrite wielder. Man...those lines are s-t-r-a-i-g-h-t!
Posted: 04:36 pm Mar 13 2006
Here's something to consider:
Click THIS!
The word Scotch-Brite is a trademarked name. They don't make a RED pad that I know of. Note that none such is listed on the above site. Yes, there are scouring type pads that ARE red...but not Scotch-Brite. That anything red is or is not more abrasive than a green Scotch-Brite would depend on the spec of the pad/material in question.
There ARE different 'grades' of GREEN Scotch-Brite pads. All of the pads green in color are listed as 'aggressive'. Note the spec of the Scotch-Brite green pads (86/96) says to use them only on surfaces NOT damaged by scratches.
Note the 'material removed' column regarding the abrasive nature of both listed green pads.
Note that their BLACK pad is more aggressive than both/either green pad(s).
Click THIS!
The word Scotch-Brite is a trademarked name. They don't make a RED pad that I know of. Note that none such is listed on the above site. Yes, there are scouring type pads that ARE red...but not Scotch-Brite. That anything red is or is not more abrasive than a green Scotch-Brite would depend on the spec of the pad/material in question.
There ARE different 'grades' of GREEN Scotch-Brite pads. All of the pads green in color are listed as 'aggressive'. Note the spec of the Scotch-Brite green pads (86/96) says to use them only on surfaces NOT damaged by scratches.
Note the 'material removed' column regarding the abrasive nature of both listed green pads.
Note that their BLACK pad is more aggressive than both/either green pad(s).
Posted: 05:42 pm Mar 13 2006
3M Scoth-Brite does make red ones, I use both of them daily. #07447 More abrassive than green.
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en00 ... utput_html
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en00 ... utput_html
Posted: 02:42 am Mar 14 2006
RE: Pitfalls....not in ref to anyone here, especially you.....CC are you a little sensitive??
RE: Langcourt....not that I know of
The diamond hone doesn't sound right to me, but "she" wasn't interested in providing more info.
Thanks for all the comments re ScottyBrite. I'll get some of this, some of that and micro-test before getting into the ring-swept area
Well Sunday turned into a short ride to hell when, at about the 15 min mark, the backend lowsided in a flat parking lot type area of sand over clay and my hamstring and knee seriously objected.
Agony! But I have done the splits with the best of em!!
Now, I can't even sit on a flippin chair, walk or do much of anything else:mad:
Oh well.......................
Can you see the sore spot????
Greg
RE: Langcourt....not that I know of
The diamond hone doesn't sound right to me, but "she" wasn't interested in providing more info.
Thanks for all the comments re ScottyBrite. I'll get some of this, some of that and micro-test before getting into the ring-swept area
Well Sunday turned into a short ride to hell when, at about the 15 min mark, the backend lowsided in a flat parking lot type area of sand over clay and my hamstring and knee seriously objected.
Agony! But I have done the splits with the best of em!!Now, I can't even sit on a flippin chair, walk or do much of anything else:mad:
Oh well.......................
Can you see the sore spot????Greg