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i dont think mine does, i will look harder and take pics in the am.

From memory mine had a indent like I have illustated in the pic below. As I said 'from memory' and my memory aint the best at the best of times.

Yeah, that is what the gear in behind it has. I am going to pull out my trusty magnifying glass.

Figured it out, I still think something is wrong with me or my gear, cant find the notch or there is no notch.

I assembled it with the valve in the fully closed position of course I wonder what would happpen if it was assembled partially opened?

There is a punch mark on the inner gear not the outer one. I'm taking a pic as you read this. BRB.

Here 'tis...

The small hole does not end up aligning with the notch on the rear gear though does it? It does not on mine.

The position your valve is in right now (closed), is the way it should be when assembling it so the hole in the lever would end up a few teeth back?

I'm not sure if they are closed but I can tell you that the gear in the pic is turned as far anti clockwise as it can go. So the rack thingy that runs across the gear is as far to the left as it can go (looking at the pic).

I'm not sure what you mean about the 'notch' ?? My pic shows what I am calling the rear gear with the punch mark in it...

Sorry to cause confusion.

No problem, thanks Trev, that is what i did- gear all the way counterclockwise.

That punch mark in the rear tooth is used to align the main shaft pinions with the exhaust valve rods.

In the manual on the top of page 4-8 it explains that this gear in the pic above has a notched tooth, I can not find one on mine, and I do not see one in KAY DEE's pic above. This notched tooth (as in shorter length tooth not punched) is supposed to be used to align the advancer shaft lever, I suppose when you think about it, the exhaust valve must be closed when the lever is at "home".

I just re-did my top and I couldn't find the indentation anywhere, either! I even went back and looked at my pictures and couldn't find it. But, if you know how it works, it's easy enough to get it right.

RE: i found there is only one way it can go in

Sorry. Note even close. There is only one way the 'claw' can fit to the activation shaft but many ways (all but one of them wrong) the claw can mesh with the main shaft.

If nothing is broke, your activation shaft is 'at rest' (main shaft full CCW referenced from the RH side) with the engine off. Put the KIPS 'at rest' (and timed correctly), bolt the claw on.

Done.


Why it may not line up: The KIPS main shaft may be full CCW, but the main shaft isn't aligned to the subport rack correctly, or a subport drum is not aligned to its rack correctly. That will give you a false 'closed'.

The 'fact' that the main valve is down as far as the main shaft will take it does NOT mean much of anything. If the subport drums are not indexed correctly the main valve will be 'closed'...but not correctly.

Check it all again. As I read your comments, something is wrong.

Guaranteed.



Check the whole thing after it's bolted together. Look into the exhaust port, manually activate the KIPS, ensure both subport drums rotate as specified and the main port flap raises as it should.

Isn't that the key CC? When I was doing mine and had all sorts of questions (I think I'm responsible for this thread) when I finally realized that my difficulties were this exact same problem, and when it the operation of the KIPS was explained, the understanding improved. As you mentioned, when the bike is at rest, the KIPS is/are closed and you can see this by looking ito the exhaust port. Unless the activation shaft is broken, the shaft will be in the closed position. So irregardless of there being notches or indentations, if you just put on the claw as the only way it can go on, and if everything else is properly operating, you can't mess this one up. Right?

Then, after attaching the claw, turn the sucker and look through the exhaust port and you should see the KIPS valve operate. If not, have a beer and think about it again.

I hope this is right as this is what I did. Too many Makers Mark's this afternoon to make too much sense in the post above. Oop's.

Mark

Re: if you just put on the claw as the only way it can go on, and if everything else is properly operating, you can't mess this one up. Right?

Right.

That's a pretty big 'IF' in there, though. Plenty of things CAN be wrong.

I've tried to help riders with some 'obvious' troubles before..one went on for days..still wasn't getting to the bottom of the problem. It was getting quite exasperating.

He adjusted his air-screw back, forth and to the hinterlands...could NOT effect his throttle response problem. Folks had him changing pilot jets, looking for carb obstructions..I finally asked him what color his air-screw was. Turns out HIS was black...and made out of nylon to boot! He had come to the conclusion his just didn't work as everyone else's did.


So, a comment along the line of '...only fits one way...' needs some 'splainin!!

Checked again, and triple checked, everything is/was good!

Easy enough to understand now but I am still curous as to why the manual explains there is one notched tooth on this particular gear and there is clearly none on mine.

Mine has a notch in the gear, and a punch mark on the claw as i recall.

Mine has a punch on both.

Canadian 220's are assembled from blem and infidel, 'leftover' parts if you will. Evidently they had a run of improperly marked/indexed shafts that got tossed in the 'Good Enuf' bin.

Cheeky...pretty cheeky...

How 'bout the "smart enuf to figure it out" bin .

KDX220PHIL wrote:I am gathering most KDx's have a notched tooth as explained in the top of section 4-8 of the manual, I don't think mine does , or at least I cannot find it.

Maybe the hole should be aligned with the indentation in the tooth of the rear most gear?

I'm having the same problem. Trevor sent me a pic of his. There is a punch mark on the rear gear. I have a white mark on the rear & front gear, BUT THEY ARE NOT IN THE SAME POSITION. You may have figued it already, if so let me know. I believe I have to remove the lever & position it move to the left to line up with the rear gear mark.