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Posted: 08:51 pm Dec 30 2005
by Ryan
so i pretty much cant do it myself, thats weird cause they dont list a tool in the book, well i guess i will put it back together and pay the shop $70, unless someone can help

Posted: 08:53 pm Dec 30 2005
by Indawoods
You can do it.... it is just real hard to press that puppy down... have your Dad help you figure something out with what tools you do have.
Posted: 08:57 pm Dec 30 2005
by Indawoods
It says right in the book to use a suitable rod and mallet.
Posted: 09:11 pm Dec 30 2005
by Ryan
ive got a malot but i really done see were i can put the rod>?
Posted: 09:41 pm Dec 30 2005
by Ryan
well i finally got it down enough and i got the circlip out, i just have one more question for this process, i think... Can i assmeble everything and put it all back together and have them just put the nitrogen in. What i mean is should i put the oil in first or do they have to put the nitrogen in first. Im guessing i have to put the oil in first right?
Posted: 10:06 pm Dec 30 2005
by Indawoods
Oil first.... nitro last. Make sure your not using 10W-30!

Posted: 10:16 pm Dec 30 2005
by Ryan


Indawoods wrote:Oil first.... nitro last. Make sure your not using 10W-30!

ok ok, i will try not to, I was planning on using some golden spectro 5w, does this seem ok? Also if it is like 5w20 or 5w60 what is the difference and will they both work?? I was gonna get it at my local shop along with some more to go in my front forks.
Posted: 10:17 pm Dec 30 2005
by Indawoods
That 5wt will work great!

Posted: 10:20 pm Dec 30 2005
by Ryan
ok thanks, although it is a bit pricy at $11 a liter it is not bad comepared to what the pro's use. Since it is so expensive i dont think im gonna want to put new stuff in and then flush it out, it just dont seem right...
Posted: 12:13 pm Dec 31 2005
by Ryan
well i got my oil today for my suspension i got golden spectro shock oil, and i got motorex racing fork oil 5w. it seems to be pretty good qualtiy but i cant really tell.
so i just finished putting my rear shock back together. Now when i pick up my wheel from the shop, i will give them my shock so they can fill it with nitrogen. He said it would cost about $15 for the nitrogen. All and all it was $28 for the oil and the nitrogen refill. And if you have 2 hours you can save yourself $50. This is way better to the $70+ i would have had to spend at a shop, and i gained some experience

. So with the extra money i finally got myself a chest protector, i havent ripped the taggs off yet cause i want to see if i can get a better deal, but i doubt i will. It was $70 well spent i think on the protector. It is a Thor aftershock chest protector. Does anyone use this and is this a good model?? I can return it and get a differnt one if it is no good, but it looks pretty good to me.
Posted: 12:37 pm Dec 31 2005
by Ryan
well ive been looking for a little bit to see what is out there and the only other chest protector that is in my price range is the Thor Force. Which is better out of the two.? thanks. Does the Thor Force seem like a good protector.
Posted: 03:15 pm Dec 31 2005
by KDX220PHIL
Hey, where'd the freak go ?

Posted: 03:16 pm Dec 31 2005
by Ryan
he left for mexico
Posted: 03:29 pm Dec 31 2005
by Ryan
ok, i have another question. I am putting in the oil for my forks. I already screwed up on the first one so i have to make this attemp count or else i wont have enough oil. It says to measure the oil level, are you suppose to measure from the top to the oil, or from the bottom to the top of the oil.
Posted: 03:49 pm Dec 31 2005
by Colorado Mike
top of the tube to the top of the oil. or you could measure to the bottom of the oil, and then subtract the length of the oil.
Thassa joke son.
I made me one of those spiffy suction doo-dads out of a horse syringe and a 1/8" model plane brass fuel line. oh, and a block of wood and some aquarium tubing I had around. right around $2.00 invested. I think Motion Pro wants $20 or $30 for theirs.
Posted: 03:59 pm Dec 31 2005
by Ryan
is there any way i can measuree it with a wire or something cause i cant figure it out, since its from the top im like way off. Im gonna need to put like 600ml and they say when changing oil it should take about 530ml. How is this??
Posted: 04:09 pm Dec 31 2005
by Colorado Mike
yeah, you could rig up a dipstick method.
Posted: 04:12 pm Dec 31 2005
by Ryan
ok it says to put like 530ml of oil into the forks. If i measure from the top the manual says it should be 87mm +or - 2mm. I get a reading of like 130mm. So does that seem right, this would mean i would have to add alot of oil.
do i measure iside the center piston or right outside of it? here is a pic of the top, and also should my fork be compressed like this when putting the oil in?
http://img120.imagevenue.com/img.php?lo ... G_0295.JPG
here is my fork leg compressed all the way down, is this when i should put my oil in?? And even if the manual says put 530ml in, i should keep putting more in untill it is 87mm from the top, right??
http://img129.imagevenue.com/img.php?lo ... G_0296.JPG
Posted: 04:26 pm Dec 31 2005
by Colorado Mike
I think I had 100mm from the top of the tube to the oil. I measured mine by filling them too full, measuring 100mm of free fuel line to a wooden stop block, and inserting it along the inner wall of the tube. Then I sucked out the excess oil.
Posted: 04:29 pm Dec 31 2005
by Ryan
everyone is telling me that you have to measure from the top of the fork, if that is true, then if the air bubbles escaped the oil level would go down increasing the distance right? Thats what im trying not to do
here are some pictures of what i am doing, the blue tape is were the top of the fork tube is, the end of the wire is were it touched the top of the oil. My finger is were the level should be at 87mm. Its quiet a big difference. So should i just add more oil to fix this? I guessing that is what i should do.
http://img132.imagevenue.com/img.ph...98_IMG_0297.JPG
http://img132.imagevenue.com/img.ph...30_IMG_0304.JPG