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The plates will move around if you have removed the springs.

I looked back and wasn't clear, but I was wanting you to check with everything intact. I don't know the circumstances that cause it, but the hub and pressure plate can become mis-aligned and cause the clutch to slip. This was one of the many things that was going on in this thread: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... n&start=80

The alignment of the pressure plate and hub are what I'm looking at around the 2:00 mark here: https://www.youtube.com/v/2GLBOLgzREk

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Regular threads on the clutch nut. Only left handed thread on the bike is the KIPS lever nut.

How are you going about holding the hub in place while you try to loosen the nut?

Tedh98 wrote:Regular threads on the clutch nut. Only left handed thread on the bike is the KIPS lever nut.

How are you going about holding the hub in place while you try to loosen the nut?

I have been just holding in the rear brake, is there an easier way? A buddy mentioned using a ratchet strap and someone else mentioned using a belt.

If the hub isn't moving, that will work.

The kdx clutch ( like most bike clutches ) is a simple one....
Clutch lever pulls cable that operates the clutch actuation arm, this rotates the arm that presses on the small rod on the end of the clutch basket forcing it in ,& separates the plates from the basket via the clutch springs.....
If you can move the actuation arm back & fourth by removing the clutch cable & using grips instead of the cable then the problem you describe of "clutch drag " may actually be due to a snagging or dragging cable....if not then check your clutch plates....you can remove the plates for inspection easy enough & you don't need to remove the 17mm nut for that ...you only need to remove the nut if you wish to remove the whole basket.

cornishwrecker220 wrote:you can remove the plates for inspection easy enough & you don't need to remove the 17mm nut for that ...you only need to remove the nut if you wish to remove the whole basket.

How do you get the plates off with the hub bolted in place?

Undue the 5 or 6 bolts on the face of the clutch basket (in the same fashion you would a car wheel, loosen 1 then directly opposite that loosen the next bolt and so on).
The bolts will have springs behind them, but don't worry the don't hold tension when undone.

I think you guys are thinking of every other clutch out there.

With the KDX, even if you remove the 4 bolts (H series) that hold tension on the springs, the plates still aren't coming off.

You need to remove the hub which means the nut has to come off.

I put the transmission in 5th or 6th and lock the rear tire like this:


You've got to make sure you rotate the tire to find a spot where the spokes don't hit the bar. If that nut has never been removed, then it can definitely take some effort. Slip a pipe over the handle of your ratchet for some extra leverage. Or find someone with an impact gun.

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Tedh98 wrote:I think you guys are thinking of every other clutch out there.

With the KDX, even if you remove the 4 bolts (H series) that hold tension on the springs, the plates still aren't coming off.

You need to remove the hub which means the nut has to come off.

I put the transmission in 5th or 6th and lock the rear tire like this:


You've got to make sure you rotate the tire to find a spot where the spokes don't hit the bar. If that nut has never been removed, then it can definitely take some effort. Slip a pipe over the handle of your ratchet for some extra leverage. Or find someone with an impact gun.

Oh really, interesting.
My clutch plates on my old 91 KDX 250 has the 6 bolts to remove the clutch plates, seams like more work removing the bolt that holds the basket.
Do you have to remove the whole basket to get to the plates?

markr74 wrote:Do you have to remove the whole basket to get to the plates?

You have to pull the hub to get the plates off.

Ok cheers, you learn something new every day.

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Did you happen to knock it into neutral?

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Water in the oil is usually a water pump seal.

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