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I checked the crank runout today, just to be safe. my old Fowler indicator showed about .002" total, do I'm not going to sweat it at all. :)

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slipped the crank into the new bearings, and while i was dropping the left case half onto the right, the piston snapped, sitting right there on the bench. i guess i got all the good out of it.




swingarm bearings are rusty crap piles, but i have to ride this weekend :)

good god, buy a lottery ticket man.

newbbewb wrote:good god, buy a lottery ticket man.

+1



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newbbewb wrote:good god, buy a lottery ticket man.

++2 !!!

update:

the bike smokes heavily on decel just like before (bummer)
the bike bogs on quick throttle inputs (bummer)

at first i thought it was because of the cold weather, then i looked at the sight glass, and realized all the (half way filled prior to starting) transmission fluid was gone.

i don't believe there is any other way for transmission fluid to disappear, besides blown seals. again.

i'm so unhappy with this right now.

i would really appreciate some advice. thanks

Did you look at the sight glass right after shutting off the engine or did you let it sit for a while?

And I tend to over-lube the bottom end when I rebuild it, so I always get more smoke than usual at first.

Tedh98 wrote:Did you look at the sight glass right after shutting off the engine or did you let it sit for a while?

And I tend to over-lube the bottom end when I rebuild it, so I always get more smoke than usual at first.

i let it sit 5-10 minutes before thinking to check the transmission level. in the past it only took a minute (i use ATF normallY) before the fluid would pool enough to be seen in the sight glass.

bike was level, on the same stand.

there really isn't any other way of eating fluid besides crank seals, is there ?

Any possible way you lost the tranny fluid out the trans vent line in the top of the housing?

For new seals to leak that much, you would had to really chew them up when installing the crank. I would pull the cover off and take a look to see if you can see an visual damage of the seal.

Was the crank journal (especially where the seal makes contact) smooth and burr free?

I guess the next thing would be to do a pressure or vacuum test on the engine to see what is going on.

G22inSC wrote:Any possible way you lost the tranny fluid out the trans vent line in the top of the housing?

unfortunately, no, there is no leakage from the transmission vent.

i even removed the key from the crankshaft so that i couldn't accidentally nick the seal on it's way in.

i'm at a loss as to how i screwed up a seal replacement.

Any chance you can do a compression test? I feel your pain and nothing is more frustrating than incurring problems after you have everything buttoned back up.


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[quote= there really isn't any other way of eating fluid besides crank seals, is there ?[/quote]

How about the case halfs? What did you use for sealer? Have read Yamabond is the goto stuff. Just thinking the only other way for oil in the crank case is from the center. A poor sealer or halfs that are not flat and mating well would do it.

Only other connection I can think of. Please keep us posted. Good Luck!

Sullyfam wrote:Any chance you can do a compression test? I feel your pain and nothing is more frustrating than incurring problems after you have everything buttoned back up.


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yes, i'll do that in the morning and report what the crappy autozone gauge reads. it was fairly accurate on my drz and old toyota pickup, so i believe it's reliable, just not high end.

s10gto wrote: there really isn't any other way of eating fluid besides crank seals, is there

How about the case halfs? What did you use for sealer? Have read Yamabond is the goto stuff. Just thinking the only other way for oil in the crank case is from the center. A poor sealer or halfs that are not flat and mating well would do it.

hmm, that's a really good point. i hadn't considered a case sealant failure, but now that you mentioned it, that would be the best thing to find. a hell of a lot better to find than a cracked case anyway, which was my next thought. i'll inspect tomorrow after the compression test. i used some 'motorcycle case sealant' from autozone, and let it get tacky before slappying the cases together. it seemed to hold well on the test pieces i put together, maybe it's worthless. we'll see.



here's my plan (very unexperienced plan):

1 pull engine (doh!)
2 compression test
3 pull clutch side cover, clutch, crank drive gear, kips centrifugal
4 fab intake / exhaust plugs
5 fill crank with fresh mix, and compress at BDC to around 5-8psi with bicycle pump... i believe more than 10psi would be 'bad' for crank seals, right ?
6 look for leaks

please list additions YOU would use to identify the problem area. i can split the cases, but would prefer to actually see the problem before doing so.

thanks !

Sounds like a solid plan to me. I totally agree to see or find the problem before splitting it again. Anyways best to have a direction of attack.

Do you know anyone in a autoshop. I am a auto tech and use a smoke machine to find Evaporative emission leaks. This would be ideal.

s10gto wrote:Do you know anyone in a autoshop. I am a auto tech and use a smoke machine to find Evaporative emission leaks. This would be ideal.

the coolest mechanic I know is hours away (hey whitenoise!) , I usually fix things myself.

that sounds like a great machine to have on hand. maybe I could get a disco club to loan me their fog machine for a minute? ;-)

You can do the leakdown with the engine in the frame, unless you're committed to pulling it anyway. 5 PSI is plenty, should be no more than .5 PSI leakage after 10 minutes.

bufftester wrote:You can do the leakdown with the engine in the frame, unless you're committed to pulling it anyway. 5 PSI is plenty, should be no more than .5 PSI leakage after 10 minutes.

i would leave it in the frame, if it was summer, muggy hot, and i only wanted to get a quick idea of the overall health of the bike. since i know there is a significant leak, i'll just go ahead and pull it.

5psi is good enough ? great ! i'm very leary of high pressures with hokey self-made plugs. don't wanna lose and eye ya know :)

got a calendar reminder last night... there is a motogymkhana in montevallo (less than an hour away), with free bbq, sooo, i'll delay the testing from this morning until after i kill some kones.

Compression test will be much easier with the motor still in the frame.

"I" would leave all the covers on, plug the intake and exhaust and then pressure/vacuum test the motor (which is very different from a standard compression test). If it won't hold the pressure/vacuum, then start looking for leaks with a spray bottle full of soapy water. You can remove the trans fill plug and look inside with a light to possibly see if bubbles are present as your losing pressure/vacuum. That would indicate a problem.