'97 RM125 forks picked up today...what am I in for?

Gotanubike · Post by **Gotanubike** » 08:22 pm Dec 11 2014

Good to know, there should be some room to work with the threading for the steering stem nut and outer nut for the upper clamp. So if I can get it within +/- 3 or 4mm to match the stem length I'll be happy. I'll let my brother know this before he takes this stuff into the plant with him.

Bearing kit also arrived today. Soo the cups are part of the bearing, I guess I kind of forgot about that after I smashed the outer race off trying to get them off

But the old ones can be used to drive the new ones on.

6 Riders · Post by **6 Riders** » 08:53 pm Dec 11 2014

It's going to be more about matching the bearing race to the machined part of the stem than the length.

newbbewb · Post by **newbbewb** » 09:04 pm Dec 11 2014

You will most likely damage the new race using an old bearing to pound it in. Bearing sets don't like impact. Freeze the race and it should drop right in. A fairly elegant tool like this will help you out big time.

http://www.eastwood.com/lisle-bearing-s ... DE=1SE1529

Gotanubike · Post by **Gotanubike** » 10:18 am Dec 12 2014

newbbewb wrote:You will most likely damage the new race using an old bearing to pound it in. Bearing sets don't like impact. Freeze the race and it should drop right in. A fairly elegant tool like this will help you out big time.

http://www.eastwood.com/lisle-bearing-s ... DE=1SE1529

I will try that first, but there was a different method involving tapping the bottom the upside down clamp in a vice with the old bearing inner race contacting the new one...

9:23 in this video

[youtube][/youtube]

Gotanubike · Post by **Gotanubike** » 10:23 am Dec 12 2014

6 Riders wrote:It's going to be more about matching the bearing race to the machined part of the stem than the length.

That's absolutely right, I see what you mean by shaving off some of the flange on the upper part of the clamp.

I did some measurements with the inner races taken off(not easy) the stems and as it sits, 245mm stem length for the KDX stem from top of clamp and up.

34mm KDX clamp depth, 37mm RM clamp depth so if the two sit equally, about 3mm should be taken off..won't get to be with my brother when he works on it, but he'll have the right idea going into it

gsa102 · Post by **gsa102** » 12:07 pm Dec 12 2014

I have the drz model on my KDX, and did a thread on the swap. Search for "Got my forks - DRZ." I used a YZ front wheel, though.

newbbewb · Post by **newbbewb** » 08:47 pm Dec 12 2014

I read your comment as saying you were gonna use the old bearing to pound the race into the head, so disregard what I said.

canamfan · Post by **canamfan** » 11:19 pm Dec 12 2014

I am putting 98 rm conventionals on my H series right now. This is what I have done. Pushed both stems out, have the kdx stem knurled. The surface the lower bearing sits on needs to be machined down or filed down. I filed mine and kept taking measurements and it worked fine. A spacer is needed around the top of the stem so the top triple will fit snugly. I used some sheetmetal and formed it into a circle, it works good. If you don't take some material off where the lower bearing sits the fork stops will not line up. You will see what I mean if you put it together with out takin material off the lower. I also drilled and tapped the aluminum stops on the lower triple for 5mm screws. You will need them or the forks will hit at full lock. I am going to have to use bar risers on my 7/8 handlebars because the clamps on my cycra hanguards hit the top of the forks. The handlebars sit higher with the kdx clamps then the rm clamps so I need the extra height anyway. After putting mine together the nut on top of the steering stem is flush with it. I have not mounted the brake caliper yet but the bolts line up, and was told I might need washers to space it in or out slightly. Looks like the plastic clamp on the forks will work well for the brake line. Good Luck!

Gotanubike · Post by **Gotanubike** » 03:08 pm Dec 13 2014

Helpful.

When you say a spacer is needed up top, do you refer to a collar to go around the stem to snug up in the upper triple??

And I already have 30mm risers for my 7/8" CR bars..there was not enough bend for me.

I have the entire front end including the dual piston front caliper, brake line and even brake handle but I will use the KDX handle and line if I can

canamfan · Post by **canamfan** » 06:09 pm Dec 13 2014

yes a collar the stem has a smaller diameter then the upper triple.

gsa102 · Post by **gsa102** » 02:30 pm Dec 15 2014

I have KX Hi 7/8" bars on mine, CR or YZ bars were too low. I need to try a lighter spring rate, just a little too stiff.

I use the old bearings and various washers with the nut to "press" the new bearings on the stem. Works great when installing a crank, too.

canamfan · Post by **canamfan** » 07:09 pm Dec 15 2014

I know you have the Suzuki brake caliper so this won't apply to yours but I used my kdx caliper. I first tried just standard washers between the caliper and fork mount but it moved the caliper to far, so I found some thinner copper washers I had laying around, they worked and the spacing was good , the disc rides right in the center of the caliper.

Gotanubike · Post by **Gotanubike** » 01:44 am Dec 21 2014

Brother just sent me an email from work:

"Got the two stems pressed out. KDX stem took about 12 Ton (24000 lbs) of force to push out! The RM was only about 8 ton.

Only problem is the KDX stem slides right in and out of the RM triple. No force required, even a little play.

I will Try to add some texture to the KDX stem to increase tightness. And use shim stock or retaining compound to make up the rest."

ohgood · Post by **ohgood** » 08:34 am Dec 21 2014

Gotanubike wrote:Brother just sent me an email from work:

"Got the two stems pressed out. KDX stem took about 12 Ton (24000 lbs) of force to push out! The RM was only about 8 ton.

Only problem is the KDX stem slides right in and out of the RM triple. No force required, even a little play.

I will Try to add some texture to the KDX stem to increase tightness. And use shim stock or retaining compound to make up the rest."

it would be better to bore It out, shrink a sleve in, then press in the stem. assuming he had that capability.

Gotanubike · Post by **Gotanubike** » 07:37 pm Dec 21 2014

KDX stem in the RM triple.

Spacer for triple(Thank for that tip, canamfan)

Just need to punch out old bearing cups from from the head tube and put the new stem bearings on...next pics the forks will be on the bike

6 Riders · Post by **6 Riders** » 08:22 pm Dec 21 2014

So, what are the details on getting the stem in and cutting down the triple for the bearing seat?

Gotanubike · Post by **Gotanubike** » 08:39 pm Dec 21 2014

The triple was cut down so the length from the surface of triple to top of stem was the same. And the bottom of the stem is flat across with the bottom of the triple.

To add "texture" he said a few dozen punch marks around the stem post and used the retaining compound. Said for sure it's more than enough to keep it from coming loose paired with the circlip insert inside.

Gotanubike · Post by **Gotanubike** » 02:11 pm Dec 29 2014

Nearly there! Just waiting for the bar mounts...

Gotanubike · Post by **Gotanubike** » 09:24 am Dec 31 2014

Complete-O!....Had to pick up some 10mm longer m8x1.25 bolts to clear the upper triple to mount so they'd reach the handlebar clamps...Thy came with 30mm bolts, needed 40mm

Post by **Keystone** » 04:48 pm Nov 08 2015

So how are you liking the RM125 conventionals? I'm thinking of doing this project. Worth it?

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