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Thanks, guys. Pretty sure they're stock reeds after doing an image search. They look perfect, with no cracks or gaps in the reed block. I did remove that second gasket though. Haven't noticed a difference. I think I might have to dyno this thing at this point.

I have run one gasket and I have run two and couldnt tell a difference.

Check the filter inside your gas tank that's connected to the pet cock. I had the same issue as you-eventually I noticed it would improve every time I cleaned the carb, then it would turn into a bogging mess while I was riding. Junk was flowing into my pilot from a ripped pet cock filter. At least check it to make sure.

Mayor Brap Brap wrote:I think I might have to dyno this thing at this point.

thats only going to tell you that it's running like poop. Right bark, wrong tree.

I wonder if that thing is overheating and you don't realize it. Anyone have a good trick for measuring the temperature?

How about the timing? Isn't there an automatic spark retard/advance that kicks in when you go to start it to help make it easier to start? Maybe that is getting funky and activating somehow when the bike heats up? Anyone here have any insight?

I like the fuel filter idea Actionman put forth. I have a Ninja that would run like crap after I leaned on it. The gas could not flow to the carb fast enough due to the crap in the filter.

there is automatic absolutely nothing on a kdx.

Curious, are you losing spark once its warm? heat increases resistance in a copper circuit. That COULD create a gradually weaker output to the coil which could F with the coil....spark.

Newbbewb, back in 2003 on the Just KDX site CanyonCarver stated:

"The CDI does indeed have an ignition 'map' in it that retards the timing about the time the KIPS should kick in. So, timing is determined by the CDI, but the basis of that determination is the passage of the pole."

This is what I was referring to. So could this be messed up somehow?

Yes, the CDI has two timing curves, one for kips closed, and one when kips opens. That should occur somewhere around 6k RPM iirc. I believe it's 6 BTDC below 6k, and 21 BTDC above 6k. If the bike does run, I lean more toward mechanical failure in the KIPS valves, or jetting, as has been mentioned several times in this thread already.

I think it's jetting at this point. The petcock filter is in beautiful shape. Could a timing issue relate to low end problems? Could my plugs be an issue?

Are KDXes, or all two strokes for that matter, supposed to be such drama queens?

No. The KDX in peteticular is very robust and simple. It's one of those bikes you can "use and abuse" and it never seems to quit. It's very tolerant to lots of things, so if its not running right, there must be something wacky going on.

Been watching this for a while now, and still waiting to hear that you double checked your intake/exhaust track for mechanical soundness then completed a run through the ENTIRE jetting guide, IN ORDER as written (not as how you think it should be, or was on other bikes or on 4Ts....)

You said after messing with the jetting it ran great then degraded after time. Are you talking after a long time or right after it warms up? Maybe look at the plug when it is running good and then when it starts running crappy.

Maybe take out a timing gun and see if the timing moves when you rev the bike above 6K.

Pump impeller is working, right?

Again, wouldn't hurt to check the temp the engine is getting up to.

It will be something stupid, you'll fix it, ride it, and then never want another bike other than a KDX......

bufftester wrote:Been watching this for a while now, and still waiting to hear that you double checked your intake/exhaust track for mechanical soundness then completed a run through the ENTIRE jetting guide, IN ORDER as written (not as how you think it should be, or was on other bikes or on 4Ts....)

amen...

Mayor Brap Brap wrote:Inspecting my reed block and I found a gasket here:



Should that even be there, or does the carb boot bolt directly to the reed cage? Also, what do stock reeds look like and how do I know if I'm having a problem with them?

I was trying to get my project 220 to run today and after half a block I reached down to shut of the choke when I felt air movement
I pulled over and with the bike idling I ran my hand over the intake tract and sure enough, it was leaking right at the reed block

so if mine is leaking there yours might be aswell
so when you go and jet her check for that

bufftester wrote:Been watching this for a while now, and still waiting to hear that you double checked your intake/exhaust track for mechanical soundness then completed a run through the ENTIRE jetting guide, IN ORDER as written (not as how you think it should be, or was on other bikes or on 4Ts....)

Sorry, I've had family in from Australia and Paris, and our house was like a deranged version of Fawlty Towers. Going to get right back on this very soon...

Mayor Brap Brap wrote:
Sorry, I've had family in from Australia and Paris, and our house was like a deranged version of Fawlty Towers. Going to get right back on this very soon...

any of them guys?

get a few sixpacks and put em to work

Float level to high?

Suffer the same symptoms with my 220 before doing a complete rebuilt. The diagnosis was bad crank seals.