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he'll probably be a better rider for it. I had a recent adventure on a very long steep down hill where my rear brake fluid boiled. I had to ride for miles over very tough terrain with only the front, and now use it a lot more than I used to. Much more like I used to ride sport bikes...uh, only without the legal defense team..and the helmet bills....and the 2nd degree burns through my leathers...

So what happend, did he get em out ?? I have the same problem now but even worse because my ezy-out snapped off !!! What a fuggin nightmare !!! I still have the option to weld an allen key onto the pin, drill out and retap or cut a slot. I'm going to crack a beer and stare at it for a while...

Am I correct in thinking the brake pins are threaded only near the head or are they threaded at the bottom as well ??

Cheers,
Trev...

They are threaded at the head. I'd soak the crap out of it with WD-40 or Zepreserve and pound the next size up allen key into the hole and slowly work it out. Maybe heat it up a bit as well?

Tried all that, lmao... Thanks bud...

If you don't care about the pins you could take a dremel and cut the pin in between the pads. Slide the pads out and then vice grip the rest of the pin and try and get it out that way?

Tried that too but the grips dont have room to grap and turn... It's fugged, I am off to eBay.

i have had the exact same thing happen. i even snapped off an easy out in mine as well. eventually got it heated up enough and got a hold on the extractor and got it off.

heat, must reamember the heat.

layoutd wrote:heat, must reamember the heat.

canyncarvr wrote: Heat makes it worse!

I had that happen in my dads xr we tried everything we could think of to get that thing out. Finally we ended up taking it to a machine shop and they were able to get it out. One thing that i found was pretty neat for anyone changing pads is that EBC mxs pads come with a hex head pin. Disclaimer- I know for a fact the kit for the front come with them but I'm not sure on the back because i haven't bought any but I would assume the kit for the back would have them.

This is probably on some other thread...earlier on this thread??

I've gotten stuck pins out by drilling the pin to almost the diameter of the thread, then using a smaller bit, drill a hole in the middle of the pin right about where the diameter changes (from threaded to pin). An EZ out (A good one. They sure are NOT all the same) will have a much easier time because there is no 'support' for the threads with the inner metal removed.

Sort'a like threading a beer can.

If the EZ out is stuck in the pin (the one you broke) any drilling is likely not a choice any more.

Good Luck.

Use NeverSeize on those threads! (Will still stick..just not as bad).

re: Heat makes it worse!

Gee. THAT was jerked out of a bit of context there, KayD!

That was a reference to the heat buildup in the caliper day in, day out..that it makes the STICKING of the pin worse.

Oh sorry my mistake CC.

I source a caliper locally for $100AU as I have a ride planned this weekend and needed one desperately.

Thanks for all the help guys but it took an engineer 5.5hrs with some kind of ultra high voltage gizmo to somehow blast or shink the pin somehow. He didn't tell me how he got it out and was being rather mysterious about his machine or either that he was a good BS-er. Cost = $0.

An EDM??? - Electro Static Discharge Machine. When I worked for Pratt & Whitney we would use EDM's to remove broken taps and drills from aircraft engine casings. They were MAGNESIUM casings also.

http://www.vtc.edu.hk/ive/lwl/mg/photo/Rm181/02EDM.jpg

Likely.

I've heard of those magical gizmos several times. Have never researched the process. Anything with a name that long has to be complicated!


How did 5.5hrs cost $0? Did you end up buying the other one? I'm missing the time reference..sounds like maybe you now have a spare?

For what it's worth I managaged to remove a tap that had been sheared off inside a cylinder head exhaust port by putting a steel nut on the outside with a thread diameter the same as the tap, then filling the hole with an arc welder, put a spanner on it and, believe it or not, it came out, and didn't even knacker the thread. As the head was ally the weld didn't stick, bit of a last resort but I would do it again. I now have the piece of tap sprayed gold and mounted on wood on my desk as a reminder not to use excessive force ever again!

spanner... thassa huntin' dog, right? I seen them Aussies have powerful smart dogs. Saw it on sattelite TV. Never dreamed they could get bolts out for you too. My dog's trained to go out and get the bag the paper came in, while the rest blows down the street.

Frightfully sorry old bean, that would be a wrench for you chaps over the pond!

canyncarvr wrote:How did 5.5hrs cost $0? Did you end up buying the other one? I'm missing the time reference..sounds like maybe you now have a spare?

Let's just say it's not 'what' you know, but 'who' you know. Apparentley those machines aren't cheap to run and he was the expensive machinist that did my T/T so I was very suprised to get no bill.

Yup I have a 97 KX500 caliper now aswell. The original KDX caliper is a bit messy around the allen pins due to the surgery so I may stick the KX one on for now.


What's everyone's prefered choice for flake bruid ??

BTW We call em 'shifter's' ??

Brake fluid:
Anything DOT 4 synthetic should do just fine.

BTW parts are in the mail.

Thank Jer !! If you'd like to PM your paypal details to me, I will reimburse you immediately. I'm off to install my new caliper.


FTR A 97 KX500 rear caliper / mounts / brackets / etc are identical to the H models.