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The vin sais 198 cc or close to that when I searched it

The stock displacement is not relevant. What you have to find out before buying a replacement top end kit is whether or not a previous owner bored/sleeved/re-plated, or otherwise altered the stock jug. You could be in need of an oversize piston. No way to be sure without pulling it apart.

I was referring to the stock displacement since a previous poster asked if I was sure I didn't have the 220. But I will check for markings on the piston . Thanks for all the advise I'm learning alot and am excited to get her ripping again

i think im going to just look it over myself with the manual i went to the stealership to get some oil and they said hey we can look over it for 140 bucks haha they said we can check your fluids and make sure the brakes work..........

An example of what can happen, happened to me. All of the documentation for the KDX I bought said 97 KDX 220; c/o, vin# swingarm sticker, everything.

Well, after learning about bad OEM 220 pistons, and pulling the cylinder and finding evidence of a past seizure, I was literally minutes away from ordering a forged Wiseco 220 piston when I thought I'd better measure the bore first. Well, lo and behold, the bore measured 66 mm, which means my bike has as 200 top end!

The point of this post is to reinforce Julien D's post. INSPECT AND MEASURE FIRST. Anything that is possible could be possible, and you won't know for sure until YOU do the inspecting and measuring.

im going to get into her what does loosening the shaft actuator nut do? is all i have to do is remove that nut or is there something else in the actuator that needs to be removed?

kpla51 wrote:im going to get into her what does loosening the shaft actuator nut do? is all i have to do is remove that nut or is there something else in the actuator that needs to be removed?

as the MANUAL mentions the main main MAIN thing is that the nut on top is left hand thread
that is all im saying until you can tell me what page of the manual that is on

You can also look here, http://kdxrider.net/forums/search.php

diymirage wrote:

kpla51 wrote:im going to get into her what does loosening the shaft actuator nut do? is all i have to do is remove that nut or is there something else in the actuator that needs to be removed?

as the MANUAL mentions the main main MAIN thing is that the nut on top is left hand thread
that is all im saying until you can tell me what page of the manual that is on

theres no page numbers on the online one or is there a joke that im not catching onto haha

Every class has a clown, whether they ask for it or not.

BE SURE to support the lever when loosening the nut. SEARCH TWICE, LOOSEN ONCE, BREAK LEVER ZERO TIMES.

kpla51 wrote:

diymirage wrote:

kpla51 wrote:im going to get into her what does loosening the shaft actuator nut do? is all i have to do is remove that nut or is there something else in the actuator that needs to be removed?

as the MANUAL mentions the main main MAIN thing is that the nut on top is left hand thread
that is all im saying until you can tell me what page of the manual that is on

theres no page numbers on the online one or is there a joke that im not catching onto haha

the joke refers back to my first post where I mentioned someone who actually answered a question by saying what page on the manual it is on

as for supporting the shaft...read this thread
http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.ph ... 41&start=0

on the 3rd picture (the one with the crescent wrench) you see the shaft in question
if you support the shaft with the crescent wrench like pictured and undo the nut you see on the top (remember, this nut is reverse thread) you should be fine

there is also a flat spot on the shaft itself where you could put an even smaller wrench to hold the actual shaft
the main idea here is that if you do not support the shaft and try to undo the not up on top the shaft is prone to twist and/or snap

Ya I noticed the huge emphasis in the manual on this haha I wonder how many people have actualy broken it.

Lots and lots.

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I'm changing the oil today now the manual recommends a certain amount but on the new to you bike thread the op stated he just used the whole quart? Will this hurt anything I use to drive myself nuts with measuring oil for my wr because every time the sight glass would be at a different level. I read his post and got excited thinking it could be just that easy to dump a quart on there

Yeah, you can run the full quart. Seems to quiet down the kips noises for some unknown reason.

That's going to be so much easier !

I think just about everyone runs a full quart.

On the side of the cylinder it will have a stamping either 198cc or 218cc. I believe its by where the reed block attaches. Still measure it, but this will tell you what the cylinder originally was a 200 or 220.

Slick_Nick wrote:I think just about everyone runs a full quart.

On the side of the cylinder it will have a stamping either 198cc or 218cc. I believe its by where the reed block attaches. Still measure it, but this will tell you what the cylinder originally was a 200 or 220.

we're not too worried about the original displacement here, we just don't want him to buy a piston that is one overbore smaller then his cylinder
can you imagine the piston slap on that puppy ?

wouldn't even hear the kips rattle

Do you guys run any special oil or just regular oil like the manual states

there are a million different answers to that question but it boils down to 2 different schools of thought

the first one prefers ATF type F fluid, just pick your favorite manufacturer and stick with it

the second prefers just "regular" motor oil
whether it be dinosaur oil or synthetic, again, pick your oil and stick with it

now, if you do decide to go with regular motor oil there is ONE thing to look for and that is this little label here



if the bottle states "energy conserving" that means the bottle contains tiny little molecules that make your clutch slip
you want to stay away from those :)


in short, different riders and different bikes like different oils, find what works for you and run with it