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Should I also be concerned that my left exhaust valve doesnt turn with the operating shaft??

That valve not turning is standard equipment for an "E" series engine.

The E series has a tendency to wear the teeth off the sub valves. Do a little searching and you will find some more info on it.

This might be worth a read. http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=10847

Fantastic... yep, I took it apart last night and the teeth are worn down flat on that valve...guess I'll be giving my dealer a call for the third time in two weeks tomorrow with yet another surprise order for him!

Unless there is a better fix than just replacing the valve??? They are $50 bucks and if it's just going to strip again....

YEARS of not being cleaned and neglected are why the valve got damaged. A yearly cleaning should keep it in shape for a long time.

Yea, like I said I just got it. Wish i hadn't paid so much for it now

Anyways I found a cool page on a sort of fix for that powervavlve...Basically the left powervalve does not use an idle gear, but it still uses the same collar/top positioner as the idle gear and right powervalve, which have cutaways to keep them together....so to keep it better positioned he adds little grinded mig welds around the collar to keep it more secure in its housing and from rattling around causing it to go out of sync...

http://www.craig.copperleife.com/bikes/kdx/pvalve.htm

Gotanubike wrote: Anyways I found a cool page on a sort of fix for that powervavlve...Basically the left powervalve does not use an idle gear, but it still uses the same collar/top positioner as the idle gear and right powervalve, which have cutaways to keep them together....so to keep it better positioned he adds little grinded mig welds around the collar to keep it more secure in its housing and from rattling around causing it to go out of sync...m

Read further down. It didn't work.

royadams wrote:The bike hasn't been parked out side has it. It seems odd that the bike could even turn over, none the less run if it pumped that much fluid through the crank case.

I'd have to agree, that much water in the pipe sounds like it was left outside, or washed without a plug in it. Enough water in the pipe and the engine will suck it in. I'm betting you dry it all up and put it back together and it'll run, especially since you're not reporting milky oil (surefire sign that water pump seal has gone) and there's no way the bike holds a milk jug worth of coolant.

Well not a gallon...A carton as in maybe a litre or quart...

Won't be leaking past the water pump, as I just replaced the oil seal and shaft bearing behind the impellar. And also the one on top of the clutch release.

The stuff it spit up was definitely coolant tho, I could see a green tinge in the patio stone reflect in the sunlight.

Since I have the cylinder off, I think I may may try running some pressurized water through the coolant feed to see if there's any water coming from the intake or exhaust ports.

Be sure to take the pipe and spark arrestor / silencer off to dump them out.

New power valve in today, base gasket, head gasket. It is still spitting water but not as bad...would run and could idle somewhat, but spit some water when revved high and lots of crackling...

Head came off again...there are hair line cracks of light coming through between the surface and a straight edge ruler around the cylinder walls. The smallest feeler gauge I have is .06mm and it does not fit in these crack. I know the tolerance is .03 but I'd guess that would barely go through through. Taking head in to be inspected tomorrow morning

Wow. That is rough.

Good to finally get it diagnosed. I had been wondering how it would turn out.

Such a bummer! Was supposed to have it all fixed up to hit the trails this long weekend(it's Canada d-eh). Looks like I'll be taking a rain check.

Found out my bike is the exact same age as me, tho. Same month and everything

Well once I have the head inspected tomorrow, I'll know for for sure if it's head. An cool $30 for a resurfacing. And if not then I guess the search starts for a new core

Turns out the head was pitted worse than I thought. They did a nice job resurfacing, but at $45 I wish I had done it myself now. Oh well, I'll put the head back on as soon as I get my hands on a torque wrench and try this again...

When they resurfaced the head did they recut the squish band in it. If not your piston may hit the head

Good question....no milling involved as far as I know. They asked for make and model of the bike when I left it with them so...but there was about a 1/8th inch clearance from the top of the piston and cylinder head mating surface. I trust it will be fine, first try to start tomorrow morning.

aaaand It's fudged...still barfing coolant.....Guess I'll be replacing the whole top end...or at least the barrel. I'll have it looked at first tho

Catch ya next time

here ya go! A crack in the left side between the water jacket and inside the resonator/cover. It was very tricky to see, as you have to be looking straight up at it from the outside with the cover off. Pretty sure this is the culprit. Water is getting into the resonator and out the left powervalve. That side probably overheated from that valve being out...what do you think?

If I'm lucky here, I may just get away with getting that welded closed!

Since the damage is outside of the cylinder walls I think it can be welded. The question is how much it will cost and for how long it will last. Looks like freeze damage to me, I have seen those kind of damages on non-winterized marine engines.

Might have caught this earlier if you had taken the time to clean up the cylinder when you had it apart the first time. Should be an easy weld repair. I'd still take the time to clean the whole thing up and check the rest of the cylinder since it's apart, just my $.02

Gotanubike wrote: