KDXRIDER.NET

Once you get it in your head that you can't do it, then it becomes a reality.

I pulled the procedure off of Canadian Daves site (or some other site) as to how to set up my jetting, set my sag, set my clickers and adjust the carb. I did not have the ability ot do do a plug chop when I set-up the bike. I asked a lot of questions of a lot of people and jetted the bike accordingly (I'd have to go to the bike and see how it is set-up) I remember I went down one or two sizes in the main jet and either dropped or raised the clip one position (this was fairly common among all the replies recieved as far as either going up one spot or down one spot on the clip - I just can't recall which way it was). I also set the air screw according to the directions (I don't have this info in front of me here at work). The bike went from being an OK performer to a much faster, harder hitting bike after I did the above. I also drilled many holes in the airbox.

I'm at 950' and ride in temperatures that average 80 degrees or so. Humidity is what I consider to be medium to medium high.

I know there is work to be done on the bike and I am sort of embarrassed about not taking all the time I should to get this set-up even better.

I do not know how to check the KIPS operation. I have the manual and will have to look at it tonight. I believe this info has been posted here before as well so I'll search later at home. I mistakenly removed the cover marked KIPS and I know this isn't the right cover to check (I believe).

I'll get on the bike this weekend and ask lots of questions. I look forward to the help. And by the way CC, I'm down to 200#'s on a good day now you elephant you.

Mark

Mark W wrote:I mistakenly removed the cover marked KIPS and I know this isn't the right cover to check (I believe). Mark

You aint the only one who's made that mistake so don't worry. Its the round one with a slot cut into it like a big flathead screw. Unscrew that, start the bike, warm it up, rev it, when it reaches approx. 6K rpm the assembly inside should snap open. If it doesn't move at all, your KIPS is damaged.

And enough with the elephant jokes, you tryin to get me into trouble or something !! LOL

Another point or two on KIPS checking....

KayDee is right regarding the LH cover screw, 6k activation etc.

But...you won't know it's OK until you take the pipe off and look inside the exhaust port while manually activating the system.

It takes both steps...you need to know the engine is activating the KIPS (checking for activation while running the bike) AND you need to know the valves are setup/timed/working correctly. You can't tell that from looking at the end of the main shaft under the LH cover.

So...verify that it activates. That tells you the centrifigal setup, the activation shaft and the gearing on the RH side of the bike work.

Then remove the pipe. Manually activate the KIPS via the nut under the slotted LH cover while looking up into the exhaust port. Verify that the main valve raises and lowers as it should (raises on activation) and that the subport drums on either side of the main valve mirror each other (each do the same thing at the same time) during activation. They should be 'closed' to your view at rest (directing exhaust into the resonator...that open space under the 'KIPS' cover) and 'open' to your view when activated...allowing direct flow of exhaust from the cylinder to the pipe, the resonator (called the Helmholtz... not Hemholtz... resonator btw) taken out of the circuit.

Look at your manual for a description of the power valve operation. Do note that some manuals incorrectly identify the left/right subport drums..and there may be an addendum to the manual that corrects that. IF the KIPS was taken apart for cleaning..and reassembled according the to the manual (with the error) you get the problem you gots...the bottom end will be awful.

BTW...200 on a good day doesn't mean it could not be 225 on a bad one!!!

One more BTW....(I got a million of 'em!)..The animation on CDave's site can be confusing if you don't already know what you're looking at. Depending on how long you let it run and how fast your PC is the descriptive text will end up out of sync with the graphic, it will show 'flow' when it says 'no flow'.

OK...just one more...got to get this out of the way.

If you decide to start taking stuff apart...be advised the nut on top of the activation shaft on the RH side is LH thread!!. Also, be sure to support the activation shaft with a wrench on the flat of the shaft before you put ANY wrench on the LH thread!! nut. Failure to do so may result in activation shaft failure...and THAT may result in complete engine destruction. I'm talking about things broken, cracked and oil running out a bunch of new orifices in the bottom of what used to be the engine.

To be clear...not only is the nut LH thread...but the shaft is too!!!


har-har-har

Mark,
Once everything is right on your bike... you better learn throttle control. Mine is night and day from when I got it. Of course my KIPS didn't function and I had a missing circlip on the piston so it was toast when I got it.

Now.... it's a monster! New rebuilt topend, Jetting and functioning KIPS make the bike work right. It looked like my KIPS had never moved since new... I believe that. I think there are more than mine that came out this way and should be checked because it sounds like yours is not functioning too.

It's one of those things when you know it's working... It lights up big time! Gives me chills to this day...

Just one more reason a 4T has nothing on a 2T!

Hi, Mark I might as well yak too... Go 12 t frt and 49 back, Great combo but a lot of other things control hit also starting with basics and building from there.
IE piston, (KIPS VALVES). Reed setup. Pipe. ect. My bike wheelies coming out of corners and I have to feed in the clutch to control it. And Im leaning forward.
So with your discription I would say you have some serious sorting out to do.
Good luck.

i bet i could have rode your kdx up that hill